Sooooo, who wants to make a kit again? Id totally buy it. *hint*

 

For ONE door, 4 wires? Ok ya lost me.

I see it as 85 is the signal wire from the switch to close the relay..it comes OUT of the door and does not go back in.

30 is the power wire to the motor from the relay that goes IN and does not come back out of the door.....am I right or lost?


David

 

The diagram back a few pages shows 2 relays, which would complete 1 door. You have one relay for bringing the motor up and another one to bring it down. So you need to run TWO wires in from the switch, and TWO wires out to the motor.

 

There is a sponsor here that makes the kit for the PS window. But the DS is the same setup. I guess it is not for the DS because of the legnth of the wiriing is different and you don't need another fuse. I can't imagine you would be unable to use it.

 

Well as far as I know the kit from Autotrix just supplies the regulater with more power, doesnt actually bypass the thermal thingy like this setup does. I like this idea more.

 

DING DING my light bulb just went off, can ya see it from there?


David

 

This does not bypass the thermal breaker. It supplies the req'd 12V through larger gauge wiring while isolating the switches from the ciruits supplying the motors - the result is less resistance and there is no/or negligible drop in voltage.

The motors remain unmodified.

 

I got some questions, on the passenger side, pick up the wires after they come out of the switch for the signal to close the relay....then the power to the motor.


On the drivers side, pick up the wires after they come out of the express down relay or the switch?


How do you orientate the wires so the switch works right? One at the time I suppose?


I am gonna do this this week.


David

 

You are overthinking this. This diagram is a schematic for ONE side only. Is that what you are missing?

If you remove the relays from the diagram above blue and brown in stock configuration run from switch to motor.

So, take the plug off the motor and cut the wires near (but not so close you can't work with them) the plug. The plug is the "motor side" - each one runs to a "30" terminal on each relay. The other side of the cut is the "switch" side - each wire runs to an "85" terminal on each relay. You are splicing the relays in the middle of the cut you make at the motor plug -and it is exactly the same procedure whether you are doing DS or PS.

 

so what's to say one couldn't just make a "module" to put somewhere the car and just run the same wires from the same 2 relays to both sides???

edit:

nevermind...i'm a dumbass. that would activate BOTH windows at the same time...lol!

 

Yeh I am overthinking it. I see now all that is happening is you are re routing the up/down signal voltage to the motors to control relays with 12 volts. The old power wires(brown and blue) are now signal wires to close the relays.

NOW I have it!


David

 

You will be pleased with the results.

 

Scottso, Did you have any problems routing the wires through the grommet in the door from inside the cabin? I haven't started yet but it seems pretty tight in there with all the other wiring.

 

If nothing has ever been run before you may have to punch through a membrane by the kick panel where the wiring enters. It is a bit of a struggle getting to it, but its doable. After that I used a piece of strapping wire to fish through - I think I went from door to cabin . I wouldn't recommend a coat hangar - it will be too heavy and you can pierce the bellows between the pillar and the door.

A little patience, finess, and cursing and you can get through. Then its an easy pull back - there's plenty of room.

 

Looks like i'll be doing my pass side window soon. This write up is priceless. Thanks
Ron