posting to read it later

 

How ironic my window motors have both slowed down and I search it to find this thread. Nice work!

 

well, if I ever get my car running again i'll have to do this. I know nothing about schematics or anything, but it seems pretty simple to do.

 

Alright, I did some research so I'm fairly confident now. I'm getting the power wire straight from the battery. Isn't 86 the trigger wire? 85 is the coil ground or does it matter? I'll find out the hard way, its no biggie. Its one way or the other!

If you don't know anything about relays this link is a good read!!!

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AllAboutRelays.htm

 

Don't even try using these relays. They are just too small. I tried using them and found that the big wires barely clear each other and one pin from the relay broke off at it's base (and I was being VERY careful) and now there is no way to reattach.


Hal

 

The relay used for this circuit is the most common one used throughout the f-body. It is part number RL36621

 

This modification of adding a new power line straight to the motor did nothing to improve my window. It still only goes up about an 1" before it stops. Guess a new motor is required.

Hal

 

Hal sounds like im in the same boat as you. Did it speed it up any though? Mine will randomly stop going up about 1" from the top. (Car is on it's second motor too).

 

Did not speed it up at all. Heck, it's lucky if it goes up an 1" at a time, same as before. I'll try taking the overtemp strip out next.

Hal

 

Where do the ground wires go? Or do the black wires already exist in the door?

 

Any metal point on the chassis will do.

 

Are you supposed to disable the heat strip in the window motor AND do this.

On the power wire, do you run 2 seperate wires from the postive deal on the fender....OR run 1 number 10 and split it inside the car? Where did you guys run the new wire(s) under the passenger side of the dash or into the drivers side of the dash?


David

 

No, you don't bypass the thermal strip.

I've done this twice on four windows now - just did my 2000 - and my '96 a while back. First and foremost - spare the relays the harsh environment inside the door panel. Ultimately mine crapped out from corrosion cause it's so wet and humid in there. Mounted them under the dash this time.

Crimp a ring terminal on your 10AWG and connect to either the battery terminal or the power point under the hood - make sure to fuse it. Run power through the grommet under the PCM into the car and all the way over to the driver side under the dash - even if you are only doing the PS. That way you can have it available for both sides. Tap into it for the PS.

Mounting the relays under the dash means a couple more wires into the door - but it's worth it for longevity IMO. Make all your relay connections in 10AWG also - except "85's on the diagram. They are only carrying small current for the switch to trigger the relay - I used 14AWG for those. Pick up your grounds right behind the kick panel - you should have a stud on each side.

 

Two wires into the door correct? 30(#10) and 85(#14) ?

Thank yee, I read you loud and clear!


David

 

Actually 4 wires - two #30 to the motors - the other two to the switch side.