guage install
guage install
okay heres the deal i bought 3 guages..oil temp/trans temp/elec.fuel pressure...and heres the problem.all 3 have 1/8 male fittings and i dont know where to hook them to..the only thing i can think of is a coupler for the fuel but it seems all these have different thread types then what i need to hook them to......any ideas
The fuel pressure gauge needs to be tapped into your fuel supply system, usually by tying into the schrader valve test port on the fuel rail crossover directly, or better yet pruchasing an additional tee fitting so you can still have a usable test port under the hood. A couple of things to be cautioned about...If you plan on installing the F.P. gauge in the interior of your vehicle, you MUST use a fuel pressure isolator, so that you will not have any possibility of actually having fuel plumbed into the interior of your car...for hopefully obvious reasons!!! If you plan on installing the gauge somewhere on the outside of your vehicle, then it is okay to connect the gauge directly to the fuel source. Additionally, I would not use the 1/8"plastic/nylon tubing that is supplied with the gauge as it is too easy for it to become kinked, burnt or brittle. I used a -3 braided steel line with AN fittings, a lot more money but a lot more safe in my opinion.
The other two gauges are either mechanical or electrical. If mechanical, then they come supplied with capillary lines that are permanately attached to the gauge (and should not be bent too tight or kinked) and need to be installed directly into the trans and oil pan using the supplied hardware (which it is usually recommended that the adapter fitting be brazed into the pan to avoid leaks) OR can be installed into the cooler lines (if you have an oil and/or trans cooler on your car) by purchasing an in-line temp manifold (made by Autometer amoung others). If your gauges are electrical, then there will be seperate sending units that will need to be installed in the same locations to sense temps as the mechanical gauges, only difference is then you will need to wire the sender to the gauge and supply 12 volts and a ground as well.
Sorry for the long post...hope this helps
The other two gauges are either mechanical or electrical. If mechanical, then they come supplied with capillary lines that are permanately attached to the gauge (and should not be bent too tight or kinked) and need to be installed directly into the trans and oil pan using the supplied hardware (which it is usually recommended that the adapter fitting be brazed into the pan to avoid leaks) OR can be installed into the cooler lines (if you have an oil and/or trans cooler on your car) by purchasing an in-line temp manifold (made by Autometer amoung others). If your gauges are electrical, then there will be seperate sending units that will need to be installed in the same locations to sense temps as the mechanical gauges, only difference is then you will need to wire the sender to the gauge and supply 12 volts and a ground as well.
Sorry for the long post...hope this helps
He said it was an "elec. fuel pressure" gauge.
Put an NOS #17535 -4AN 90-degree swivel fitting on the Schrader valve. That allows you to get the connection pointed away from the cowl, and allows you to point it in any direction you want without over tightening the fitting. The Scharder vlave will break off very easilly. Now run a short braided SS hose.... -4AN on one end to attach to the -4AN fitting, and 1/8" NPT male on the other end. You can get them for relatively low $$$ on eBay. You couple that to the gauge sending unit with a 1/8" NPT coupler, or throw in a "tee" to allow you to have an extra fitting for nitrous fuel supply, under hood gauge, etc.
Put an NOS #17535 -4AN 90-degree swivel fitting on the Schrader valve. That allows you to get the connection pointed away from the cowl, and allows you to point it in any direction you want without over tightening the fitting. The Scharder vlave will break off very easilly. Now run a short braided SS hose.... -4AN on one end to attach to the -4AN fitting, and 1/8" NPT male on the other end. You can get them for relatively low $$$ on eBay. You couple that to the gauge sending unit with a 1/8" NPT coupler, or throw in a "tee" to allow you to have an extra fitting for nitrous fuel supply, under hood gauge, etc.
ok thats an idea on the fuel....i have alot of fittings laying around is it possible to make a line to addapt the shrader and sender sizes together and just remove the core....the tranny may not be as big of a deal because worse case i can tap a new hole for it in the pan since i dont have it installed yet...but my big prob is figuring out the oil one...i was trying to find some adadapter type fitting to use as a drain plug{sender screwed right into the drain plug idea}...but nothing could be found.....i dont wanna have to pull the pan just to be able to keep an eye on my temp
You can attach the sending unit directly to the Schrader valve, but make sure it isn't going to hit the cowl when the engine torques over. The hose eliminates any chance of that happening, and keeps the weight off of what is a fairly fragile connection. AutoMeter sells two pieces that will take you from -4AN to 1/8" NPT. My solution was to have a 1/8" NPT bung welded to the center of the passenger side fuel rail.
My shop drilled a hole in the oil drain plug and tapped it for the oil temp sensor.
My shop drilled a hole in the oil drain plug and tapped it for the oil temp sensor.
when you had the drain plug tapped to piggyback the sending unit.....did it make the walls of the bolt to thin???i'm thinking and trying to find out now if a tranny drain kit might have the same threads.....i know they are in the most part 1/2-20 threads with a 1/8 bolt tapped into it which would be perfect if the threads are the same as a oil drain plug...any thoght on this
ok injuneer since you seem to be the man with the answers{not bein smartass with that statin a good thing...lol}i was doin some more research on all the boards and heres my next round of questions.....the oil port above the filter...its supposedly 1/4 which is an easy adapter to track down...will i get a good reading from there....same on tranny...there is a pressure port on the dr side that i read i should be able to screw right into...will i get a good reading off that or a false reading?
When you screw the temp sensor into a mass of metal like that, you may be reading the metal temperature, rather than the fluid temp. The sensor should project into a flowing stream, or a large reservoir of liquid. The pressure taps for the oil and tranny seem to keep the sensor out of the flowing stream.
well until i hook up my cooler.i put it in the pressure port in the tranny for now...same with the oil sensor....although i'm puzzled since the minute i took the plugs out fluids started flowing out so would they not be descent spots for these,,,at least the oil one{i had to hook them up to something kinda **** about having things functional in some sence at least} as towards the fuel i have 3 options now as i see it.....1...buy a adapter....2 ....get the right small fittings from home depot and make one outta steel line with my flaring kit....or 3....the afr i took outta of the car has a port in it i can put the sensor in if i reinstall it in the car
You can have pressure at the port, but no flow. It the port is dead ended by a plug (or the sensor), the fluid may just sit there, being heated up to the temperature of the surrounding metal, and not representative of the temperature of the fluid that is actually circulating through the system.
The oil temp sensor in the drain plug is "functional".
The oil temp sensor in the drain plug is "functional".
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