Is the fuel pump relay for a 1993 in the same place as the 95, like Shoe Box's part location shows (behind the hick plate by the hood release)? I installed the hatch for quick access to my fuel pump (I'm sure gald that I did). I have no fuel pressure --the pump won't turn on, with it out of the tank and the key on (or cranking the engine the pump does not run. I took a reading of my trouble codes and had a 45 or 46 ,can't remember for sure which # and now it won't through another code of any kind eather during cranking or just with the key just turned on. My Auto x-Ray scanner said that the 45 or 46 which ever was (fuel enable error) I do remember that and that's not what Shoe Box's code list says a code 45 or 46 is for a 1993. It lists a 45 as bank 1 (left) Heated Oxygen Sensor (H02S) Circuit (rich exhaust indicated) and 46 as Pass_key II circuit. I GOT TROUBLE ANY HELP??

Thanks Randy

 

check for voltage at the fuse and the fuse itself (drivers side of dash board) then check voltage at relay under hood - drivers side fender wall, check for voltage at pump, remember pump shuts off after a few seconds after ignition key is turned on and the pump reaches pressure. 93Z Ted

 

Could you be a little more spacific as to the location of the fuse? U said (drivers side of dash board). My fuse cover plates doesn't list qa fuel pump fuse at eather fuse box (drivers side of dash board or under the hood). I can depress the (schreder spelling?) valve any time and there is on pressure/fuel. I did check for 12Volts at the pump and did not have 12V when key is just turned on or cranking. So the relay is under the hood not behind the driver side kick plate by the hood releace as shown in shoe box's part location? If so where under the hood?

Thanks for the replay...

 

With the key on engine off you will only have battery voltage at the fuel pump for a few seconds.

 

The relay is in the same place as my pic. The fuse for fuel pump power through the relay is the ECM fuse (#5) 15A in the dash panel.

 

Shoe Box, the #5 fuse is good and I have 12 v at the fuse with the key on.. Questions How is the car electronic connection removed from the top of the fuel tank assemble? I just have the assm. laying on top of the tankdeck right now with the fuel lines unplugged. If you just go to the top of the tank/amms., do you pull/slide or twist off the car electronic connection to get it unpluged? It seems very tight, it doesn't seem to won't move and I don't want to brake it. Couldn't I just temporarely put 12 volts to the top of the assm. once it is unplugged to test the pump with the cars wiring disconnected? While the assm. is removed from the tank I would really like to test all of the wiring though from the top of the assm. down to the pump, just for a very short period of time. If I don't have any fuel pressure shouldn't I have 12v to the pump all the time with the key in just the on postion and if not am I probably looking at a bad relay?
Sorry for allll the Questionsssss...

Thanks for the info

 

Some more info. for anyone that wants / cares to help...
I do have 12v to the pump for about 5 sec. (but it never runs) and then it goes away like it has reached max presssure, but with the pump out of the tank and the hoses disconnected there can't be any pressure. The only way I get the pump to run (and eleminates the pump as a problem) is to put a ground jumper after the pump( the black wire)(to the car body ) and turn the key on. It is like it has 12v but no complete circuit /ground. If I measure resistance after the pump (the black wire ) to ground (to the car body ) it seems good, less than 1 ohm.
The pump never comes on just by truning the key on. I must jumper to Gnd, after the pump, to get it to come on. I don't know why my installed jumper works and the normal Gnd (the black wire ) whichs measure good doesn't. Maybe a poor Gnd some where? I have cleaned all contacts on the Pump / sending unit. With the fuel pump relay in my hand I can feel it switch. Remember I did have a DTC 46 = Pass-Key®II circuit but not now....and that, I think, will not allow the injectors to work. How can I check the ignision Key ( Chip) if it isn't throughing the Code anymore? I'll stop now

 

More Info. My wife had another key, she never drives the Z, and I tried it and still no fuel pump spin without my ground jumper so I guess I'll keep chacing the ground.
Boy everyone must be bussssy eating turkey allready.......

 

When you turn the key to on, you will see 12V at the fuel pump. After a couple of seconds, the 12V will turn off, because the ECM shuts down the fuel pump if the engine isn't running (ECM can't find the low res pulse from the Opti if the engine isn't running).

Have you tried priming the pump using the single-wire connector next to the ECM? That bypasses the relay and the fuse.

 

the single-wire connector next to the ECM (the priming connector) is it the open gray wire with a single pin black socket on it? It's the only one that I see there by the ECM main connector and the gray color matches the color of the hot wire at the pump. If it's the right connector do I just put 12v to it?

Thanks for the help Injuneer.....

 

It's fixed!! it was loose/intermittent connection at the top of the sending unit inside the tank. I don't think that I could have ever found it without using the "priming connector". I just wasn't quick enough LOL to try and move the wires during the 2 or 3 sec. of run time that you get using the Key.

This one took me awhile to nail. HAPPY THANKSGIVING ALL

Thanks Injuneer/ShoeBox and all.

 

Good to hear you got it fixed!!