Nice writeup, DWoodAudio...looks like some very useful info. The hangup you speak of with the filler neck was exactly what my mechanic was talking about.

-Alex

 

Glad to help....i still wonder what rocket scientist designer was responsible for that one....

 

Both ways seem "not so perfect" to me. The choice is to:

1. Cut an access panel in top, or...

2. Cut the "ridiculously small opening in the inner fender well" and make it larger AND bend the filler neck.

Umm, I'll take choice 3. Wait, there is no choice 3. Lol.

 

For the record...I did the fix several months ago, and it's holding up fine. No problems.

 

I don't think you have to cut the inner fender well opening...it's just done so the tank is easier to put back in and take back out in the future.

You HAVE to cut an access panel to pull the pump without dropping the tank.

-Alex

 

I like this Idea & will make an access port for my Z when I do a fuel pump. So many people have given their opinions & engineering expertise but no one seems to realize that there are a lot of other things that we do to our cars that is defying the engineering that went into these cars. I hardly see this as something more detrimental to the engineering that went into the car then say sub frame connectors. Almost all of us has them. This mod completely defies the engineering that went into the unibody. I will take note on the 90 degree corners & will use 90 degree curved edges to help maintain some of the regidity. I fabricate a lot in my job & do see different things that have been done with 90 degree cuts start to crack. (Very rare though)

As far a saftey, if the tank that is enclosed is emitting fumes then you better get a new tank. They are sealed & a fume should not be an issue. (However always use extreme caution & take nothing for granted) You have a better chance of having an explosion at a gas pump caused by a static charge emitted from your body then this procedure.. Just my opionion....

And to cover my comments, (A$$) this is all my opinion..... Nothing factual!!!



Good thread. I wish I wasn't months late.....

 

Dropped my tank in my driveway. Used an Allied 3 1/2 ton floor jack, and Lincoln jackstands. Raise the car on one side at the front of the trailing arm. Put a stand under the car(Axle works) Then raise the whole rear with the jack under the center of the 10Bolt. Put jackstands at the mounting point for the trailing arms. Now remove the wheels, Panhard rod, shocks, torque arm, u-joint, brake line @ bracket above the inline filter, parking brake cable at splitter above the driveshaft. Your axle should be loose now. Next, remove the muffler/tailpipe by unbolting just behind the cat, other brackets. Next, remove the heat shields. Now drop the tank, after you siphon it. ($12 hand pump, most national parts houses)

 

holy thread from the dead...

but thanks because that favorite was on my old computer and haven't stumbled across it to resave it.

 

I just changed mine a year ago using the taekwondoplus web site, worked like a champ. Just lay out some masking tape and drawout your diagram on it.
I used a dremel with the heavy duty cut off wheel and had very little if any sparks. The tape will cut down on the sparks to almost nothing.

 

agreed. Your actually making the chances of ignition go up by emptying the tank.

 

no crap just realized the date on that one.

 

OK, I give up. Can't find a connection problem, everything is where it should be. Quick connects on quick connects. Rubber/plastic lines on metal tubes with no clamps. No helper to assist me in bolting the tank back in, and not crimping the lines. The GM engineers seem to have gotten me again. Guess I'll pay them once again. Don't want a fuel fountain at the back of my car.