JakeDub

Update on the situation.....

Removed all remote start and alarm components and restored factory wire connections...no fuses are blowing...I solved a security issue I was dealing with, and now the engine cranks..but again the fuel pump does not turn on. I got the car to run for about 1 second and then it shut off right away.

I am getting 12v to the relay, and I can feel the relay clicking when the key is turned. There is no voltage going to the pump. So a wiring issue in between I'm guessing, the only thing I can think of is there is a black wire going to the relay that was spliced into before I removed the remote start. Is this some kind of bypass I interrupted? Or maybe it's a vats issue again allowing the motor to crank but not get fuel? Although the security light is not flashing anymore.

EDIT: I got the pump to turn on a few times, Idk how but it just did. The engine started and then shut down after a second or two. Now the pump is not turning on again.

JakeDub

The small pink wire coming out of the back of the fuse is now melted...it leads to a connection of that wire, the fuel pump relay's pink wire...and then it splits off into two more wires leading under the glove box. However only the wire going to the fuse box is melted, not the other 3. I unplugged the connection going into the metal box under the glove box, (passkey module?) and a fuse still blew. So if it's not that box, then it must just be the wire or the connection there?

JakeDub

new update if anyone is actually reading this, it's becoming more of just a checklist for myself though lol

The black and white wire coming from the fuel pump relay and going to the diagnostic reader...both prongs on each end read a crapload of volts...so I'm guessing a short somewhere along that wire? It's pretty hard to follow it all but I'm going to try.

Injuneer

The black/white wire should be attached to a ground.

Not sure what a "crapload of volts" is.... why not just post the number?

Have you tried replacing the relay?

JakeDub

The black and white wire was spliced into with the remote start/alarm, not sure why...It reads like 50 volts, could that cause the pink one to melt and #5 fuse to short? I replaced the relay a few times already with no success.

DirtyDaveW

!!!!? 50V? Somethings not right, unless you've got 4 batterys wired in series.

RUDEDOG

I think you need to calibrate yowa meter.

JakeDub

ya that's why I didn't say the number, but just know it's a "crapload," Idk why it's reading like that...but no other wire gives me an insane reading

JakeDub

I cannot find any wires damaged or shorted out..this is getting pretty damn frustrating

when I touch the wire to the back of the fuse (ecm ign #5) I can hear a sound coming from under the hood, kinda like a long wheezing sound, almost like the sound of a computer booting up, is that normal and what could it be?

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Maybe the guy wired something into the fuse box or did some custonm wiring that's causing problems, or maybe the place that replaced the pump did a bad job and wasnt careful with the wires. you might want to check the harnes right near the top rear of the gas tank where the edge is real sharp just to make sure it is protected.

Injuneer

Unless you have some sort of transformer in your system, there's no way you can generate 50V with a 12V battery.

You said you removed all the extraneous alarm wiring.... but now you say the black/white wire was "spliced into with the remote start/alarm". Remove the rest of the alarm wiring, and make sure the black/white wire is connected to a chassis ground.

JakeDub

^^^ I meant it was spliced into, not anymore though. I grounded out the black/white wire and still no dice.

I had the fuel pump checked out because it was still under warranty and they did not find any faulty wires. They did however straighten out a fuel line, and the car was good for about a week. Which I don't understand, is it just an intermittent short somewhere else, or maybe it was a line to the pump jiggled free for a week...

Why would just one part of that pink wire connection melt? Just the wire going to the fuse box melted, theres also one going the the fp relay, and two going to what I believe is the passkey 2 (metal box under the glove compartment)

JakeDub

I'm getting code DTC 46 (Personal Automotive Security System (PASS-Key II) Circuit)

Could that just be because the vats is bypassed...or could that be my problem? If the fuse doesn't blow my car cranks, but shuts off right away, so maybe it's shutting the fuel off. I checked the dark blue wire going from passkey to ecm and couldn't find a bad connection at either end. I also checked the pink wire going to the ecm ignition feed and could not find a problem.

max_ta

how are you making out been reading your posts and no updates, you fix it or shoot it

JakeDub

It turns out there was a wiring harness damaged to the fuel sending unit. I eventually just brought it in to the shop and they discovered this pretty quickly. I wish I would've done that right away but oh well...it's running great now.