I think my fuel pump is going out. If turn the key about 5 times without starting the car, it starts up fine. But if its cold and i turn the key the first time, i have to keep stopping and cranking it for it to finally start. So i think its the fuel pump. I'm trying to sell the car and this is causing people to turn away. Does anyone know how much it should cost to have this thing replaced? I plan on taking it in to the shop to have it fixed. I saw a few post on how to replace it on your own but I am nervous to even try that. I rather just pay someone to do it the right way.

 

Have you done a fuel pressure test? That would yield a far more definitive diagnosis.

To have the pump replaced at a shop by dropping the tank, you're looking at a long expensive process, probably in the vicinity of 8-10 hours, plus parts. Expect on an easy $800-$1000.

Or, you can get a few friends and $30 worth of beer, a Dremel and some cutoff wheels, some steel tape or 1/4" sheet metal screws and a piece of scrap steel and do it yourself. Many people consider it a "hack job", but being that I have done this at least 10 times on several friend's and even customers' cars, IMO, this IS the right way to do it.

 

Check valve in the fuel pump most likely?

I have the same situation, i have to "prime" before I can get a good clean start. After it starts thought it runs just fine.

 

I'd say a shop is going to charge ~$600 or more to change the pump.

 

The trap door is the fastest and easiest way to go. A lot of newer cars are coming from the factory that way now. My SSEI Bonneville has it from the factory.

 

I put a trap door in my 3rd gen and really regret having done it. My 97 needs a pump, and I'll be dropping the rear/exhaust/tank to change it.

 

Why do you regret having put a trap door in the 3rd gen? If done properly it is as strong as original structure wise and a added plus for any future pump changes.

 

I just don't like the idea of a hole in the floor. I know it's not going to hurt structurally, and I sealed the cover panel, but it still bothers me. Maybe I'll feel differently if the pump goes south again.

 

I felt the same way, didn't want to do it but after a new pump died 20 minutes after I installed it, I was not about to go through dropping all that stuff down again.

 

Hmm i guess im going to take it to the shop to have them check the pressure. Not sure how to do that with what you guys said.

 

You can go to your local auto parts store and pick up a fuel pressure tester for about $35. It connects to the schrader valve, which is located at the back of the fuel rail. You should be running 41-47 psi. I'm in the same boat as you pretty much because I'm gonna have to do this myself, a few guys told me to do this on another thread. Hope this helps.

 

41-47psi is with the vacuum compensation line disconnected. Reconnect the vacuum line, and the pressure will drop proportional to intake manifold vacuum - about an 8psi drop with a stock cam, less with a performance cam.

Checking at idle is only 1/2 the check. You have to tape the gauge to the windshield, and take it out on the road, WOT/max RPM, and insure the pressure never drops under 40psi.

http://shbox.com/1/fp_reg.jpg

Of course everyone appears to be guessing you have an LT1.... but there is no info in any of your posts to indicate the basic info about your car. If its an LS1, ignore all of the above numbers.

 

most auto parts stores will rent the tool for free. If the exhuast needs changed the shop will want to replace it and it will expensive. I personally don't like the hole in the back but it is a personall choice. I also have 7 hoists so i don't mind doing it the right way. I cut a line on 1 car on my first one i did.(don't use a sawzall unless you angle it and be very carefull). I also caught my 3rd camaro on fire because i thought it would be a good idea to use a cutt off wheel. The insulation in the trunk behing the plastic panels will smolder and catch on fire if u don't get it soon enough, I cut it out and went to get a couple rags and looked back and poof. This was when i was a super smart teenager that knew everything. Good luck

 

Is it possible to cut a trap door with something like tin snips? I am a little concerned about using anything that might cause sparks (e. g. a Dremel tool) back there.

 

Is it necessary to modify the stock bucket, or does anybody offer one already done up for the LT1?