Tuning F/I Questions
It's still NOT linear, which creates a decent problem with tuning.
Work with what ya got. And a boosted OBD1 LT1 is what i got. 
Will report back with results once i get the map in.
Worst case scenario: I can't get it right no matter what i do. So i have to go back to mail order tune (that seems to work pretty good).

Will report back with results once i get the map in.
Worst case scenario: I can't get it right no matter what i do. So i have to go back to mail order tune (that seems to work pretty good).
This statement was the end of Donald Rumsfeld's career as Secretary of Defense when he told a Tennessee Army National Guard Soldier he would go to war in Iraq with unarmored Humvee's despite the fact they were proven to save lives.LOL
Last edited by 97WS6Pilot; Feb 19, 2008 at 08:28 AM.
I hear ya on me making it "more complicated" than it really is. But
It's not "complicated" persay. Just wanna be safe.
And I can see the other prospective. Not many people are doing this, let alone a newb.
I have two WORKING SD tunes I got from members (who are using them on thier cars) as reference. Also have my mailorder tune and the stock tune for reference. So you would think i would have a decent chance of getting it working

For sure. Still waitin on decent weather to see what we're workin with.
Last edited by LT1-TA; Feb 19, 2008 at 07:24 PM.
So from what i can tell. If i go Full open loop 2 Bar SD. I just need to rescale the tables for the map sensor. Turn on SD mode. Ditch the narrowbands and MAF. Disable closed loop.
Since closed loop is gone the old o2 are ignored and I don't need to bother with the BLMs. And of course Speed Density will eliminate the MAF.
So then all my AFR tuning will be in the VE tables alone... making adjustments off of the wideband.
correct?
Since closed loop is gone the old o2 are ignored and I don't need to bother with the BLMs. And of course Speed Density will eliminate the MAF.
So then all my AFR tuning will be in the VE tables alone... making adjustments off of the wideband.
correct?
One big problem I noticed and had Tunercat fix was the BARO RESET function... huge problem on the stock file with 2bar sensor. De-activate this and you will have "accurate/repeateable" AFR's using the VE tables. Leave it activated and you have big problems.
Read all about it if you want... (not trying to hyjack... just trying to help)
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=560089
Your tune looks good in all the right right places. I would recommend changing your Throttle Position for WOT to 20 percent throttle at all rpms. If you don't and get into boost below 3500 rpm the computer could command 14.7 AFR instead of going into PE mode. Also you will find alot more torque in the car if you use the stock timing tables and pull timing with a boost referenced ignition box. I pull 1.5 degrees of timing for 1 pound of boost(very conservative). It has excellent torque at low boost.
If your AFR is correct with a mail order tune then you got REALLY lucky. I would do some 3rd gear pulls and get the AFR from 2000rpm all the way to redline and tweak it with the PE vs Rpm at WOT table. Turbos are a little tricky to get the AFR right all the time unless you have boost reference fueling. To get it perfect you would need to get a BS3 or an alkycontrol kit to increase fueling based on boost instead of rpm.
If you send an email to tunercat he will send a Wot Blm locked file that will help to get more predictable fueling at WOT.
If your AFR is correct with a mail order tune then you got REALLY lucky. I would do some 3rd gear pulls and get the AFR from 2000rpm all the way to redline and tweak it with the PE vs Rpm at WOT table. Turbos are a little tricky to get the AFR right all the time unless you have boost reference fueling. To get it perfect you would need to get a BS3 or an alkycontrol kit to increase fueling based on boost instead of rpm.
If you send an email to tunercat he will send a Wot Blm locked file that will help to get more predictable fueling at WOT.

So, If I pull timing with the PCM on a MAF 1 bar tune, all the timing has to be taken out in the 100KPA cells. This means you have the same timing at 1 pd of boost as you have at 15 pds of boost. This is where the ignition box comes in.
Mine is mainly a daily driver so I want to keep all the resolution and driveability of the stock tune and just pull timing based on boost with my MSD BTM box. Its a very dramatic increase of mid range torque due to extra timing at low boost and is very safe at high rpm. Isn't that what its all about? Power, reliability, and consistancy.
All the fueling is still controlled by the PCM and my Alkycontrol kit. I have tweaked my tune to the point that I am getting every ounce power available and it is very consistant and driveable with descent gas mileage so I'm not messing with it anymore.
Oh BTW I know exactly what my timing is by using a timing light and an air compressor to simulate boost for the MSD BTM.
Last edited by 97WS6Pilot; Apr 6, 2008 at 09:28 PM.
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