Now seems like everyone answers everything vaguely as if I knew something. Haha. Well I have no idea about anything with Tunercats.

So to help me out here Im going to go into detail on my questions so anyone here that wants to can get me some good help.

First tune I decided just to have a mailorder tune. I already have the software and cables but know absolutely nothing about this program (if it was MS i would be good to go). The tune seems pretty accurate (verified with LC1), but the Maf tables are untouched.

I think i want to go open loop tune instead of wasting more money on a narrowband o2 (gotta replace one) that I won't even need later (soon later, lol).

So i'll post up a few pics and start asking questions... gimme a few

 

Ok. So I want to run a open loop tune while still using the Maf for now. Here I will post back to back pics of the stock tune and the pcm4less tables. The maf tables are untouched... (??)

This first pic is just showing all the options. Now would someone like to tell me what tables I will be needing to use to change my a/f??

 

Here are the timing tables... first two are stock... second two are the tune's





Now for the tune..

 

Now the other tables that I found so far that have a big change in them (or any at all) is the "%change to fuel/air ratio vs cool. temp at WOT" and "%change to fuel/air ratio vs RPM at WOT"

Here are those Tables. First is stock and second is tune.



and tune

 

So that is pretty much the only tables with changes.

The Maf tables are same as stock (wtf is with that?) as is most everything else (or I would have posted pics of the changes).

So.... any insite or tips??

 

Your last pics you posted is the PE tables, thus why it added fuel. First thing I'd do though is PULL OUT MORE TIMING. Make it safe while your learning this. You said you know MS, so you should understand the basics enough to know how to do that and where you want to do it. I'd honestly start at 16 degrees at wot.(think about this before asking me how to do it if you don't know how)

It's hard to say exactly what to do without someone just giving you a tune.

Like I said, search for how to wire in the wideband to datamaster first off. Their is a good thread on here somewhere, just search for it.

 

So you don't find it odd that this tune seems to be right on without much change to anything else?

Haven't done a lot of driving, but from what I have it seems to be just about right. Didn't have anything to log knock tho. Would rather not wire any more crap into anything, because the second my tool bill is payed for soon im going ms and going to have to wire all that.

As for the timing anyways. From what a lot of the hot rod guys run around here for timing with big shots of nitrous, and with all iron motors, I don't think im really in a danger zone. But i may scale it down to 20* total. Make me feel a little better about it.

But think about it, people bolt on superchargers to stock cars with nothing but a FMU. Some go a bit further and get a ignition box to pull timing but usually never pull nothing crazy... never anything anywhere near what it would take to get into the teens on timing. So 20 really is as low as i could imagine neccesary.

To me it sounded like a lot of open loop tuning will be done in "Open loop AFR vs Coolant Temp vs MAP" . Or is this only is SD?

 

Your tune looks good in all the right right places. I would recommend changing your Throttle Position for WOT to 20 percent throttle at all rpms. If you don't and get into boost below 3500 rpm the computer could command 14.7 AFR instead of going into PE mode. Also you will find alot more torque in the car if you use the stock timing tables and pull timing with a boost referenced ignition box. I pull 1.5 degrees of timing for 1 pound of boost(very conservative). It has excellent torque at low boost.

If your AFR is correct with a mail order tune then you got REALLY lucky. I would do some 3rd gear pulls and get the AFR from 2000rpm all the way to redline and tweak it with the PE vs Rpm at WOT table. Turbos are a little tricky to get the AFR right all the time unless you have boost reference fueling. To get it perfect you would need to get a BS3 or an alkycontrol kit to increase fueling based on boost instead of rpm.

If you send an email to tunercat he will send a Wot Blm locked file that will help to get more predictable fueling at WOT.

 

Many mild blower run great with changes to only the PE table (and other parameters that effect fueling like displacment, injector size (sometimes you need to lie to the bitch)) and the timing tables. The MAF table is definitely best LEFT ALONE. The above post may not be a bad idea, depending where you start to make significant boost, FWIW.

Rich

 

Ok. I understand the ignition box pulling timing being worth more power. You keep all your timing until the box see's boost and then it only pulls needed amount of timing for each pound of boost.

Is the "%Threshhold for WOT vs RPMs" the table that will make that change? They are stock on the tune at the moment (see pic).



Now BLM isn't a term i have heard before the LT1. So would you care to go into a bit of detail here with the locker and BLM's themselves?

Well looks like i build boost somewhere in the early 3000's. Full boost is reached about 3500 from what i see. Im too busy watchin wideband and road to really say for sure

 

Why not just do a 2 bar speed density tune and let the computer reference the timing and fueling vs boost no need for a ign box. that way you can change the amount of boost on the fly and still have the proper fueling and timing

 

I actually put my car in SD and tuned it after I had my tune dialed in with the maf before, so if my maf ever freaked out, I could drive the car home in SD if I needed. I will say, turbos plus PE only is a BAD thing because boost isn't linear like a blower car. I was on 8lbs and couldn't get a good line between when PE would come on and when boost would come on, it'd go so rich it'd want to kill the car, or lean spike as boost came up(for instance 3rd gear rolling into it) because I may have zero vacuum to 1 or 2lbs of boost, but since it's 100kpa it's looking for enough fuel for 8lbs. Depending on when I punch it(dig, 2500rpms, 4500rpms, 1st gear vs 3rd, etc etc) gives different amounts of boost at different rpms.

2bar would be best for him, I plan on switching to it.

If your tune seems good now(afr correct at all points) then leave it alone, other than I'm still not a fan of all the timing(especially on a mail order tune). I guess I'd rather give up a little power for a lot of reliability.

 

So.. For two bar. Need to get a 2 bar map off a turbo sunbird or typhoon or similar. Turn closed loop off. Ditch the maf.

Where is the option for speed density only??

So putting a 2bar map in is going to split my VE table in half correct(and same with advance tables)? So basicly anything above 50 kpa will be boost? What tables will i mainly focus on for tuning afr? If i wanted more "detailed" tuning on the VE i could lie and tell the computer my injectors are a smaller size and scale the VE table accordingly.

What other tables will the 2bar map affect?

 

You really need to read this section...

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/computer-diagnostics-tuning-36/

And this thread...
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=560089

 

already read most threads in that section.. including that thread.

I need reassurance to make sure of my understanding. Im a broke kid. I can't afford to make any dumb mistakes.