I was wondering how realistic it is to get 600rwhp from a blown LT1? I haven't decided on which blower to use or cubic inch to use. I'm thinking either staying with a 355 or going to a 383. Any info will be greatly appreciated.

 

A 355 or 383 would be plenty. With a decent cam, some ported stock castings, 8.5-9.0 cr, and a healthy blower like a S-trim, T-trim or D1, you shouldn't have any porblems reaching your goals.


Jose

 

Shouldn't be a problem, at all.

I've got a 383ci LT1 w/ Vortech YS-Trim and I'm putting 752hp to the tire.

Thanks,
WEs Buck

 

sweet mother of david! thats some power. now with that kind of power, is it required to use billet main caps?

 

Damn that is some power!! What kind of crank are you guys using? I have heard about this snout breaking deal with high boost blowers.

 

How much boost are you making?? Also what are you running for intercoolers? Those are some nice numbers.

 

Around 11-12 psi.

Factory Vortech Aftercooler.

Thanks a bunch,
Wes

 

If I don't sell the car, I am seriously considering going to a big front mount intercooler.

I have also been thinking about going the route of the turbo.

Wes

 

Juicey....any pics of your installation?

 

600rwhp is pretty much the baseline for a SC LT1 buildup. these days

1. You need a completely new rotating assembly anyway, so there is no reason not to go with a 3.75" stroke.
2. Consider going 0.010" over and not 0.030" over. This will leave a thicker cylinder which will seal better and give more hp. It will let you get another two or three rebuilds out of the block as well. Production blocks are pretty much used up at 4.030", maybe you can go 4.040", but that's it for a blower motor.
3. Don't skimp on the blower. It's much cheaper to get a bigger blower now than to upgrade later. For example, a Vortech kit with the T-trim is just $100-$200 more than the kit with an S-trim.
4. Strongly consider water injection.
5. Give consideration to having your piston crowns coated with a thermal barrier ceramic - contributes to piston life and adds a few hp.
6. I run nodular iron straight 4-bolt main caps. So did George Baxter at 1,150hp.
7. When budgeting, keep in mind that the supporting parts will cost as much or more than the blower setup, depending what you are building and what you already have. If it's an auto, you will need some major tranny upgrades, probably some sort of swap. If you run sticky tires, you will need a new rear end and driveshaft. If you have an M6, you will need a Street Twin clutch.
8. An adequate fuel system is essential. Do a search for some ideas. I had the simplest system that would support 700rwhp I'd ever seen in my prior setup. Bosch 255lph intank, stock lines, rails, and regulator, Kenne Bell "Boost-a-Pump". I was using a Carroll Superfueler, but an easier option now would be the Acceleronics low-impedance converter box.

Even the "simple" fuel system I described above, plus injectors, will be in the $1,000 range. Just to give you an idea, in case you don't already know, what you are getting into.

Rich Krause

 

Thanks Rich I appreciate all the info. I haven't started on the short block yet. What kind of heads should I be looking at? I have a spare set of stock castings and a spare intake. I also have a spare pcm. My car is a M6 and I'm going to get a 9" from a good friend at ART. I'm also going to go through the M6 and do all the upgrades then. The car is not daily driven, it's a weekend car. I was thinking about the D1SC Pro Charger with the twin intercoolers. I have heard some problems with Callies cranks breaking off the snout due to high boost applications, so I'm not too sure how much boost to run. I really just wanted to see if I could get 600 to the tires without having to build a sheetmetal intake and all that stuff. I appreciate everyones information, it really does help in making decisions that cost a bunch of $$$$$. Keep'em coming.

Thanks guys,