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I have a 1995 Camaro z28 and I recently installed pacesetter lt headers with all the emission crap on them, let me tell you that was a complete nightmare nothing fit right. Anyways on my stock manifold I have these emission tubes on both sides and they are completely seized on there. I’ve tried flare wrenches, pb blaster, blow torch etc and they will not budge. I’ve rounded out one of the nuts already so I’ve given up at this point. My question is how the hell do I get these off? Is there a replacement for these tubes because I cannot find them anywhere? And what size cap can I use on the headers to plug them up I’ve been to Lowe’s and advanced auto parts and every plug I’ve tried hasn’t fit. I just want to be able to drive my car. It’s been down for a week now.
95 is an odd year. 94 and most 95’s are 22mm-1.5 threads. But some, either very late 95 model year or the CA emissions A4 with dual cats can be 18mm (as are 96/97 dual cats). Did the Pacesetters offer a choice on the AIR tube connections?
M22-1.5 is a common thread for a Cummins diesel oil drain plug, and a few imports (e.g. Alfa Romeo). If you try a Cummins dealer, they are very expensive, but if you can find a generic one online, they are just a couple bucks. In any case, try and measure the ID of the Pacesetter connection before you mail order. 22mm is close to 7/8”, 18mm is close to 11/16”.
The factory fittings are hard to find. I remember trying to unscrew them when my car was only 6 or 7 years old and they were extremely difficult to break loose. After 24 years, problem gets worse. Might find them in a salvage yard, or at a place like Hawks Motorsports.
Do you live somewhere that you have to meet a visual emissions check? AIR doesn’t really affect a dyno emissions test, because the AIR pump only runs a couple minutes on start up, and that's not part of the typical test. With your 95, you can delete the entire AIR system, and as long as there is a good fuse in the circuit, it won’t set a code.
Thanks for the reply. I bought a 1/2 inch plug I believe from Lowe’s and it didn’t really fit. It lined up and looked like it wanted to go in but it would not thread. I also bought that m22x 1.5 plug or whatever it is from oreillys and that didn’t fit either. Pacesetter didn’t offer any type of plug or anything like that so I’m stuck in the mud at this point and haven’t been able to drive the car. Also that egr flange I believe on the back side of the passenger header I haven’t been able to get hooked up. It will simply not line up with egr tube on the back of the engine. I’ve wanted to take the car to an exhaust shop but I don’t want to drive it very far with open headers and my egr and air tubes not hooked up. I love in Arizona where they have emissions for my car but I am in the military stationed here and I have Oregon plates. When I went to get my tags renewed for my 4runner I just mailed in the money with the application and did not have to go through any type of emissions. Any and all help would be appreciated as I just want to get this car finished. Thank you.
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Did you find a plug that was. “close”?
95 is an odd year. 94 and most 95’s are 22mm-1.5 threads. But some, either very late 95 model year or the CA emissions A4 with dual cats can be 18mm (as are 96/97 dual cats). Did the Pacesetters offer a choice on the AIR tube connections?
M22-1.5 is a common thread for a Cummins diesel oil drain plug, and a few imports (e.g. Alfa Romeo). If you try a Cummins dealer, they are very expensive, but if you can find a generic one online, they are just a couple bucks. In any case, try and measure the ID of the Pacesetter connection before you mail order. 22mm is close to 7/8”, 18mm is close to 11/16”.
The factory fittings are hard to find. I remember trying to unscrew them when my car was only 6 or 7 years old and they were extremely difficult to break loose. After 24 years, problem gets worse.
Do you live somewhere that you have to meet a visual emissions check? AIR doesn’t really affect a dyno emissions test, because the AIR pump only runs a couple minutes on start up, and that's not part of the typical test. With your 95, you can delete the entire AIR system, and as long as there is a good fuse in the circuit, it won’t set a code.
Did you try asking Pacesetter what the size/threads of the connection is?
[EDIT] Was the “1/2-inch plug” a “pipe plug”? If so, that would be a 14 TPI thread requiring a 23/32” (0.719”) tap. That's very close to the 18mm size (0.709”), but a mismatch on the TPI.
I havent asked pacesetter yet. They’re closed at the moment. Not sure if they’re open tomorrow but I’ll give them a call. As for that egr flange on the back of the header I have no way to get that hooked up. It’s just sitting back there not connected because I can’t get it on.
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Did you try asking Pacesetter what the size/threads of the connection is?
There is a “block off” plate available for the factory EGR connection on #8. Is the configuration of the Pacesetter Connection the same as the factory manifold? But deleting EGR may set a code.
Yes the factory connection will hook up to the header but the egr tube is just hanging behind the engine because I cannot bend it to be able to hook it up. There is no room behind the engine and it’s just a huge pita
Originally Posted by Injuneer
There is a “block off” plate available for the factory EGR connection on #8. Is the configuration of the Pacesetter Connection the same as the factory manifold? But deleting EGR may set a code.
Would it be easier to access/bend if you unbolted it from the intake manifold, bolted the header end up, then wrestled w/ getting the tube back on the intake manifold?
I dont know if i could. It’s such a pain. I’d rather not unbolt the header again. I wish I could get a picture of it but it’s such a tight space.
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Would it be easier to access/bend if you unbolted it from the intake manifold, bolted the header end up, then wrestled w/ getting the tube back on the intake manifold?
I wasn’t suggesting unbolting the header. I meant unbolt the EGR tube from the intake manifold, bolt it to the #8 primary with the single bolt, then perhaps you would have more clearance to wrangle the end of the EGR tube back on the intake manifold studs. That way you aren’t struggling to get the bolt into the header.
This is what I’m dealing with here. The egr tube won’t line up with the header flange and the auto transmission dipstick is in the way. I’ve tried bending it but I cannot get it to fit.
Originally Posted by Injuneer
I wasn’t suggesting unbolting the header. I meant unbolt the EGR tube from the intake manifold, bolt it to the #8 primary with the single bolt, then perhaps you would have more clearance to wrangle the end of the EGR tube back on the intake manifold studs. That way you aren’t struggling to get the bolt into the header.
07-05-2019, 08:25 PM
