TCI Shift Kit install and one problem
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 398
From: Trenton, NJ
TCI Shift Kit install and one problem
http://www.geocities.com/foff667/98Camaropg4.html anywayz im attempting to do a write up on the TCI shift kit because of "ease" of installation, cough, i ran into just a few snags along the way and one that made my night end not so well. My first snag as you may have already read was with i guess its the 1-2 accumulator housing cuz i couldnt figure out how to get it apart once i wacked it with a rubber mallet it fell apart and i was good to go...the only thing was according to the instructions there shouldve been a spring on top of the spacer plate which there wasnt and one in the housing which there were actually two...one small inner and one larger outter...i figured id go halfass by the directions take out both and install the one supplied spring which was shorter than the stocker...please correct me now if im wrong in doing so. Also The picture they supplied of the "pump" was kinda retarded, cuz the way they put it it sounded as if you take out the pump and then take it apart...no big deal though just thankfully i had the right snap ring pliers to get up in the cubby hole to get those and get out what i needed now heres where im confused...i buttoned everything back up, thought i did at least, and now the car wont go into gear..no clunking or nothing did i not hook up the cable inside the tranny right? I hooked it up before i had the valve body completely sinched down so im just assuming it wiggled itself free and i just didnt notice it in my wearyness lol. Anywayz if all works out well today im gonna drop the pan hook that crap up right and be done with it woo hoo.
lata
Bill
lata
Bill
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,634
From: Newark, Delaware
Re: TCI Shift Kit install and one problem
[QUOTE]Originally posted by foff667
[B]http://www.geocities.com/foff667/98Camaropg4.html
(Q) My first snag as you may have already read was with i guess its the 1-2 accumulator housing cuz i couldnt figure out how to get it apart once i wacked it with a rubber mallet it fell apart and i was good to go...
(A) You could have just applied air pressure to the apply hole in the 1-2 accumulator housing. That would've blew the piston out.
(Q) the only thing was according to the instructions there shouldve been a spring on top of the spacer plate which there wasnt and one in the housing which there were actually two...one small inner and one larger outter...i figured id go halfass by the directions take out both and install the one supplied spring which was shorter than the stocker...please correct me now if im wrong in doing so.
(A) It sounds like they supply instructions for an early 4L60E, which has a different 1-2 accumulator piston arrangement. Early units were the same as the 700R4. The spring was against the plate, and the accum. piston was in the bottom of the housing. Later units had the piston on top with the springs under it. The later arrangement provides firmer 1-2 shifts. If you put the piston in the housing first, you'll probably have SOFTER shifts. When I build racing 4L60Es, I block the accumulator completely with a set screw in the feed hole (Unless I'm using a billet servo).
(Q) Also The picture they supplied of the "pump" was kinda retarded, cuz the way they put it it sounded as if you take out the pump and then take it apart...no big deal though just thankfully i had the right snap ring pliers to get up in the cubby hole to get those and get out what i needed
(A) Are you sure you got the "I" ring all the way back in? If not, it'll blow the pressure regulator valve out of the pump, which will result in a no move condition.
(Q) now heres where im confused...i buttoned everything back up, thought i did at least, and now the car wont go into gear..no clunking or nothing did i not hook up the cable inside the tranny right? I hooked it up before i had the valve body completely sinched down so im just assuming it wiggled itself free and i just didnt notice it in my wearyness lol. Anywayz if all works out well today im gonna drop the pan hook that crap up right and be done with it woo hoo.
(A) See above, or... Are you sure you had the converter in all the way? It sounds like you may have broken the pump. The easiest way to check for this BEFORE pulling the trans. is to see if you've got cooler flow. To do this, trace your top cooler line (at the transmission) up to your radiator (don't assume it's always the top line at the radiator!). Pull that line, and hook a hose to it (using hose clamps)and run a hose from it into a container. Have a buddy start the car and see if you're pumping fluid. It is possible that you didn't get the manual link in the manual valve all the way. Even if you did this, you'll still have cooler flow though. Lastly, you did put a filter back on it, didn't you?
Frank
All-Trans Transmissions
[B]http://www.geocities.com/foff667/98Camaropg4.html
(Q) My first snag as you may have already read was with i guess its the 1-2 accumulator housing cuz i couldnt figure out how to get it apart once i wacked it with a rubber mallet it fell apart and i was good to go...
(A) You could have just applied air pressure to the apply hole in the 1-2 accumulator housing. That would've blew the piston out.
(Q) the only thing was according to the instructions there shouldve been a spring on top of the spacer plate which there wasnt and one in the housing which there were actually two...one small inner and one larger outter...i figured id go halfass by the directions take out both and install the one supplied spring which was shorter than the stocker...please correct me now if im wrong in doing so.
(A) It sounds like they supply instructions for an early 4L60E, which has a different 1-2 accumulator piston arrangement. Early units were the same as the 700R4. The spring was against the plate, and the accum. piston was in the bottom of the housing. Later units had the piston on top with the springs under it. The later arrangement provides firmer 1-2 shifts. If you put the piston in the housing first, you'll probably have SOFTER shifts. When I build racing 4L60Es, I block the accumulator completely with a set screw in the feed hole (Unless I'm using a billet servo).
(Q) Also The picture they supplied of the "pump" was kinda retarded, cuz the way they put it it sounded as if you take out the pump and then take it apart...no big deal though just thankfully i had the right snap ring pliers to get up in the cubby hole to get those and get out what i needed
(A) Are you sure you got the "I" ring all the way back in? If not, it'll blow the pressure regulator valve out of the pump, which will result in a no move condition.
(Q) now heres where im confused...i buttoned everything back up, thought i did at least, and now the car wont go into gear..no clunking or nothing did i not hook up the cable inside the tranny right? I hooked it up before i had the valve body completely sinched down so im just assuming it wiggled itself free and i just didnt notice it in my wearyness lol. Anywayz if all works out well today im gonna drop the pan hook that crap up right and be done with it woo hoo.
(A) See above, or... Are you sure you had the converter in all the way? It sounds like you may have broken the pump. The easiest way to check for this BEFORE pulling the trans. is to see if you've got cooler flow. To do this, trace your top cooler line (at the transmission) up to your radiator (don't assume it's always the top line at the radiator!). Pull that line, and hook a hose to it (using hose clamps)and run a hose from it into a container. Have a buddy start the car and see if you're pumping fluid. It is possible that you didn't get the manual link in the manual valve all the way. Even if you did this, you'll still have cooler flow though. Lastly, you did put a filter back on it, didn't you?
Frank
All-Trans Transmissions
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 398
From: Trenton, NJ
Re: Re: TCI Shift Kit install and one problem
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 12SCNDZ
[B][QUOTE]Originally posted by foff667
[B]http://www.geocities.com/foff667/98Camaropg4.html
(A) You could have just applied air pressure to the apply hole in the 1-2 accumulator housing. That would've blew the piston out.
Comment: yah thats what i got for advice about 2 mins after i hit it with the mallet
worked either way lol.
(A) It sounds like they supply instructions for an early 4L60E, which has a different 1-2 accumulator piston arrangement. Early units were the same as the 700R4. The spring was against the plate, and the accum. piston was in the bottom of the housing. Later units had the piston on top with the springs under it. The later arrangement provides firmer 1-2 shifts. If you put the piston in the housing first, you'll probably have SOFTER shifts. When I build racing 4L60Es, I block the accumulator completely with a set screw in the feed hole (Unless I'm using a billet servo).
Comment: yah thats what i figure though ive never seen the inside of an earlier 4l60e or 700r4 so i wouldnt know what they were looking at...i ended up just putting it back together the way i found it just with the shorter spring inside the housing under the pistion so its a packed unit now and wont come apart unless u use the compressed air or the mallet again
(A) Are you sure you got the "I" ring all the way back in? If not, it'll blow the pressure regulator valve out of the pump, which will result in a no move condition.
Comment: Yah other than these two things everything got done right...i got the second groove in the pump itself...lots of tensions and maybe 1/8in of play in it...so thats not the problem for sure read down.
(A) See above, or... Are you sure you had the converter in all the way? It sounds like you may have broken the pump. The easiest way to check for this BEFORE pulling the trans. is to see if you've got cooler flow. To do this, trace your top cooler line (at the transmission) up to your radiator (don't assume it's always the top line at the radiator!). Pull that line, and hook a hose to it (using hose clamps)and run a hose from it into a container. Have a buddy start the car and see if you're pumping fluid. It is possible that you didn't get the manual link in the manual valve all the way. Even if you did this, you'll still have cooler flow though. Lastly, you did put a filter back on it, didn't you?
Comment: First off i didnt do a converter so thats not an issue...the only thing i did was take off the pan/filter/valvebody/spacer...if you can see in the pics on my pg 4 the lever thats attached to the gear selection unit inside the tranny...i cant get that to go into the "cup" and hole in the cylindrical valve...im thinkin its something that has to be done when putting the valve body in? I only had my hands on this project so when i put it back together i thought it was in correctly but then when i started it up and moved the gears i guess it wasnt and just completely popped out...now i cant get it in for the life of me and really dont feel like dropping all that crap again if nobody with certainty can say "oh yah thats how its done" theres like oh 20 bolts that hold the body up there and its just too much work and effort to do a second time if thats not the anwser and without and extra set of hands which im waiting on whos to say i could do it with the 10lbs of valve body in one hand and me trying to menuever this little part in the other...bottom line is i cant get it connected and i was hoping someone could tell me strait up there is an easy way to do this...since there hasnt been im not sure what to do other than call AAA lol
Thanks
Bill
[B][QUOTE]Originally posted by foff667
[B]http://www.geocities.com/foff667/98Camaropg4.html
(A) You could have just applied air pressure to the apply hole in the 1-2 accumulator housing. That would've blew the piston out.
Comment: yah thats what i got for advice about 2 mins after i hit it with the mallet
worked either way lol.(A) It sounds like they supply instructions for an early 4L60E, which has a different 1-2 accumulator piston arrangement. Early units were the same as the 700R4. The spring was against the plate, and the accum. piston was in the bottom of the housing. Later units had the piston on top with the springs under it. The later arrangement provides firmer 1-2 shifts. If you put the piston in the housing first, you'll probably have SOFTER shifts. When I build racing 4L60Es, I block the accumulator completely with a set screw in the feed hole (Unless I'm using a billet servo).
Comment: yah thats what i figure though ive never seen the inside of an earlier 4l60e or 700r4 so i wouldnt know what they were looking at...i ended up just putting it back together the way i found it just with the shorter spring inside the housing under the pistion so its a packed unit now and wont come apart unless u use the compressed air or the mallet again
(A) Are you sure you got the "I" ring all the way back in? If not, it'll blow the pressure regulator valve out of the pump, which will result in a no move condition.
Comment: Yah other than these two things everything got done right...i got the second groove in the pump itself...lots of tensions and maybe 1/8in of play in it...so thats not the problem for sure read down.
(A) See above, or... Are you sure you had the converter in all the way? It sounds like you may have broken the pump. The easiest way to check for this BEFORE pulling the trans. is to see if you've got cooler flow. To do this, trace your top cooler line (at the transmission) up to your radiator (don't assume it's always the top line at the radiator!). Pull that line, and hook a hose to it (using hose clamps)and run a hose from it into a container. Have a buddy start the car and see if you're pumping fluid. It is possible that you didn't get the manual link in the manual valve all the way. Even if you did this, you'll still have cooler flow though. Lastly, you did put a filter back on it, didn't you?
Comment: First off i didnt do a converter so thats not an issue...the only thing i did was take off the pan/filter/valvebody/spacer...if you can see in the pics on my pg 4 the lever thats attached to the gear selection unit inside the tranny...i cant get that to go into the "cup" and hole in the cylindrical valve...im thinkin its something that has to be done when putting the valve body in? I only had my hands on this project so when i put it back together i thought it was in correctly but then when i started it up and moved the gears i guess it wasnt and just completely popped out...now i cant get it in for the life of me and really dont feel like dropping all that crap again if nobody with certainty can say "oh yah thats how its done" theres like oh 20 bolts that hold the body up there and its just too much work and effort to do a second time if thats not the anwser and without and extra set of hands which im waiting on whos to say i could do it with the 10lbs of valve body in one hand and me trying to menuever this little part in the other...bottom line is i cant get it connected and i was hoping someone could tell me strait up there is an easy way to do this...since there hasnt been im not sure what to do other than call AAA lol
Thanks
Bill
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,634
From: Newark, Delaware
On some transmissions, you can take the clip off the linkage shaft, but that won't help you much on the 4L60E. It's easier to just drop the valvebody again.
BTW, are you sure you put the 3 longer 8MM bolts back in the right places? If you put one in the wrong place, it'll go through and lock the sun shell. Hopefully TCI includes this information in their instructions.
Frank
BTW, are you sure you put the 3 longer 8MM bolts back in the right places? If you put one in the wrong place, it'll go through and lock the sun shell. Hopefully TCI includes this information in their instructions.
Frank
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 398
From: Trenton, NJ
Originally posted by 12SCNDZ
On some transmissions, you can take the clip off the linkage shaft, but that won't help you much on the 4L60E. It's easier to just drop the valvebody again.
BTW, are you sure you put the 3 longer 8MM bolts back in the right places? If you put one in the wrong place, it'll go through and lock the sun shell. Hopefully TCI includes this information in their instructions.
Frank
On some transmissions, you can take the clip off the linkage shaft, but that won't help you much on the 4L60E. It's easier to just drop the valvebody again.
BTW, are you sure you put the 3 longer 8MM bolts back in the right places? If you put one in the wrong place, it'll go through and lock the sun shell. Hopefully TCI includes this information in their instructions.
Frank
lollata
Bill
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