So are you saying that the unsprung disc of the Stage 4 is MORE streetable than the Stage 3? Is there less chatter/easier engagement? I am kind of surprised to hear that, but if this is true, then I know what clutch I may go with if I ever start making some serious power. I simply refuse to buy any of their sprung discs anymore based on what I have found.

 

I didn't get that from any post about the stage 4. What I saw was......if you're worried about the springs flying apart....get the stage 4 clutch. The stage 3 is very streetable is what was said....the 4 can be driven on the street...just a little more difficult considering there is no slip.

Joe

 

I understand how you feel. I felt the same way from the moment I was telling Dave I want to try it, looking at the solid disk before installing it, doing the installation, then right before driving the car.

That unsprung disk is so much easier to drive than the Stage 3, and the Stage 3 to me is very streetable.

stock 1 -------- 10 bad chattering what's wrong with this clutch

Stg 3 before breaking-in will be 8
stg 3 2000 miles will be 4-5
Stage 4 no break in will be 2-3 no chattering at all

Disclaimer - I also have been driving aftermaket clutches for over six years driving Dual Frictions, ACT, and Specs and my tolerance is lot more than most people.

Sorry for breaking off on a tangent in this thread

--Hugh

 

Have you had any problems breaking parts with the unsprung setup? I'm thinking about going with that if I have problems with my stage 3 ceramic.

Joe

 

so instead of getting a stage 3 you recommend a stage 4 on the street?

i want to buy the clutch once and not hafta do it again because i'm making to much power. made 352/354 last night on a mustang dyno and have a few parts sitting ready to throw on another 30+ horse but the clutch is FRIED.

any help would be great, i love these direct answers

 

If you are making some decent power over 500rwhp and have decided on getting the Spec, then I would recommend just getting the Stage 4 unsprung with the X-pads instead of the stage 3. No springs to worry, much easier to drive, no chattering and will hold a little more power.

However, after realizing that Stage 4 is much easier to drive than Stage 3, I would probably just skip Stage3 all together and run the Stage 4 even at around 400rwhp. Especially if you are planning on adding more power over time.

However, if I hadn't done the Spec already, I would actually be doing the Street Twin and not have to worry about it anymore. This statement is made with what I have read, but I have not used or driven a ST. So far I am pretty happy with the Stage 4.

--Hugh

 

am i gonna bust the stock rear or be able to drive nicely with the stage 4? my clutch is shot and i don't feel like doing it twice if i don't hafta.

whats the price on the stage 4? all the sites only go upto stage 3 on price