Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

M6 clutches a crap shoot??

Old Feb 21, 2009 | 10:43 AM
  #16  
CreatiVe2's Avatar
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From: Philly, Pa
would you ever consider getting the duralast kit and swapping in for a better disk?

www.clutchnet.com has an amazing product line, they hold the patents for most major clutch disk brands. it could be worth checking out. also the pressure plate is pretty much 1 of a kind and no companies make it different than the standard lt1 or lt4 pp
Old Feb 21, 2009 | 10:53 AM
  #17  
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From: Metro Detroit, MI
Originally Posted by CreatiVe2
would you ever consider getting the duralast kit and swapping in for a better disk?
If the duralast kit came with a valeo pp, and oem bearings I would. Depends on the price difference though. Getting it all in a kit is quite convenient. I paid 377 shipped for the SPEC 1 kit which I thought was a pretty good deal. To buy the autozone kit for 250, I'd have to get the clutch disc for 130, and the cheapest SPEC would do for just the disc was 209. I've never really looked at the clutchnet site.
Old Feb 21, 2009 | 11:17 AM
  #18  
Black 97 SS's Avatar
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I stayed away from spec and centerforce clutches becasue of the mixed reviews. They seem to be great or a pain in the ***. I ended up going with a mcleod single disc for 7500 rpm. I also used a centforce sfi approved steel flywheel along with a lt4 presure plate. No slipping, No chatter and feels like stock. Be sure to check the input shaft on the trans for burs they may result in some chatter, if their is make sure to do a light file job on them.
Replace the piolt bearing there cheap. good luck


1997 Camaro SS #1039 M6
LE1 2.00-1.56 valves, LE Matched Intake, Holly 58mm, CC306, 1.6 Pro Magnums and 918's, 30lb injectors, Pacesetter Long tubes, TTL exhaust, No Emissions, Mad Z28 Tune, 4:10’s, C5 Brakes, Level II Suspension, Sphon LCA'S, Spohn Panhard, Hotchkis bars, Hotchkis STB, BFG KDW’s.
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 01:57 AM
  #19  
dfrank's Avatar
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Originally Posted by raroz28
You must have a faulty kit.

I just ordered a Stage 1 today.

You either got a bad kit, install wasn't done properly, or you have other failing components that screwed it up.

Try another SPEC, especially if they're going to give you a discount. Just figure out what the problem is.
Well, I said I would report back here when I had my new clutch kit for awhile. I am up to 1200 miles on my new Duralast kit with no funky vibrations (ACE1252) at up to 6000 rpm or chatter and it grabs as well as a good stock clutch. The SPEC 2 I had was done and not driveable by this point of mileage. The cheap Duralast was installed in the same shop, in the same way as the SPEC. Tells me that the shop is competent and that the rest of the existing components in my car are still working fine. The only thing left is what raroz28 said, "You must have a faulty (SPEC) kit." Now if SPEC customer service would only make this right and offer some form of partial or complete refund. Better not hold my breath But hey, I am really happy with my Duralast!
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:22 PM
  #20  
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 466
From: Cypress, TX
Originally Posted by dfrank
I now have the NU31265 kit that is a Chinese knockoff at
You can dang-well be sure I'll never install any Chinese knock-off junk
in my cars, be it a $20 rotor, sensor, or a clutch kit. It's not *just* the
cheaper labor that makes a Chinese-product less expensive, it's the
cheap materials (i.e., low quality) that constitute the product.

http://www.clutchnet.com/home.php
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 07:51 PM
  #21  
dfrank's Avatar
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Originally Posted by caldercay
You can dang-well be sure I'll never install any Chinese knock-off junk
in my cars.http://www.clutchnet.com/home.php
You must be so proud
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