Good sources for driveshafts
#16
Strange Chrome Moly Driveshaft - just wish it was powdercoated black like in the pic (comes unpainted).
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_...ml#Driveshafts
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_...ml#Driveshafts
#17
Strange Chrome Moly Driveshaft - just wish it was powdercoated black like in the pic (comes unpainted).
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_...ml#Driveshafts
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_...ml#Driveshafts
I never saw one of Strange's. But I have never seen anything from them that wasn't good.
Rich
#18
#19
I used these guys, I got a bad *** steel shaft with a Spicer front slip yoke and bad *** U joints for $350 shipped I think it was.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/
David
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/
David
#22
I had a 3-1/2" aluminum shaft made by Inland Empire Driveline, for my 69RS LT1/T56. They were great to deal with, and made the shaft to my specs overnight, so I could pick it up the next day, because I was in the neighborhood. It was still warm when I got it.(really) They even gave me a tour of the facility.
Its a beautiful piece, spicer 1350's, and a spicer slip yoke, $470.00ish
Its a beautiful piece, spicer 1350's, and a spicer slip yoke, $470.00ish
#23
I just installed a Dynotech 3.5" aluminum drive shaft on my bolt on '94 TA. I was having intense vibrations at and above 80 mph after swapping in a T56 and Strange 12 bolt. It fit...very tightly...and NO vibrations. At 120 all I feel is happiness now.
#25
Along with many of the listed places, Mark Williams http://www.markwilliams.com/
#26
You guys haven't mentioned Inland Empire Driveline. Their website is http://www.iedls.com/
They've been around for quite a few years, are a member of SEMA, and you can purchase a driveshaft through Summit if that's your flavor.
I called them to make a driveshaft for my Vega and they told me it would be ready the next day.
They've been around for quite a few years, are a member of SEMA, and you can purchase a driveshaft through Summit if that's your flavor.
I called them to make a driveshaft for my Vega and they told me it would be ready the next day.
#27
Just wanted to steer others away from messing around with the stock LS1 driveshafts as ours just broke.
The LS1 slip yoke is shorter making the overall LS1 driveshaft length shorter so I had the LT1 slip yoke put on the LS1 shaft along with new u-joints and a balance job. It was very smooth, until it twisted off right by the back yoke joint. I bought the LS1 shaft for $130, the u-joint work and re-balance was $170 so I had $300 in it. If you have $300 to start with go new. The new shaft is .083 3" steel with solid u-joints. The u-joints are not 1350, they are stock size but the shop said the stock joints very close to 1350 strength, greaseable or solid.
As for why the LS1 shaft broke I don't know. Our car is stock except for a later ram air setup, and a fresh McLeod Street twin. The Street Twin disks are solid, they have no torsion springs between the hub and disk so a clutch drop would hit the driveshaft harder than an spring hub disk clutch would. But we were not doing harsh clutch drops. The break could have started where the shop re-welded the balance weights, it kind of looks like it. The main point is we will have $675 in driveshafts, $300 was pure waste - or an investment in driveshaft education.
One more thing, the driveshaft shop does not recommend heating to get the u-joint cap retaining plastic out. The reason for that is the danger of changing the yoke metal properties. That's the reason I let them do the u-joints, something I would normally do myself.
The LS1 slip yoke is shorter making the overall LS1 driveshaft length shorter so I had the LT1 slip yoke put on the LS1 shaft along with new u-joints and a balance job. It was very smooth, until it twisted off right by the back yoke joint. I bought the LS1 shaft for $130, the u-joint work and re-balance was $170 so I had $300 in it. If you have $300 to start with go new. The new shaft is .083 3" steel with solid u-joints. The u-joints are not 1350, they are stock size but the shop said the stock joints very close to 1350 strength, greaseable or solid.
As for why the LS1 shaft broke I don't know. Our car is stock except for a later ram air setup, and a fresh McLeod Street twin. The Street Twin disks are solid, they have no torsion springs between the hub and disk so a clutch drop would hit the driveshaft harder than an spring hub disk clutch would. But we were not doing harsh clutch drops. The break could have started where the shop re-welded the balance weights, it kind of looks like it. The main point is we will have $675 in driveshafts, $300 was pure waste - or an investment in driveshaft education.
One more thing, the driveshaft shop does not recommend heating to get the u-joint cap retaining plastic out. The reason for that is the danger of changing the yoke metal properties. That's the reason I let them do the u-joints, something I would normally do myself.
Last edited by Jesse Lackman; 10-05-2010 at 09:07 AM.
#28
Wow, I just called the shop to see if the driveshaft is done and they said they will not charge for it. It's Inland Truck Parts here in Bismarck ND. They know driveshafts and build them for the pickup pullers around here. I protested the no charge but they said they are not sure their work didn't have some effect on the strength of the LS1 driveshaft. I'm still going to see if I can pay for parts at least, the solid u-joints are 43 per, the tube and weld ends are brand new. I can see not charging if I had asked them to put the parts back back on the LT1 shaft but what I'm getting is brand new and better parts (except for the slip yoke).
#29
Well, they insisted on not charging, said Happy Birthday!
If any of you are around Bismarck ND check out Inland Truck Parts for your steel driveshaft.
It is as smooth as the LS1 shaft was. They said it would be since it is a larger diameter and thicker wall.
If any of you are around Bismarck ND check out Inland Truck Parts for your steel driveshaft.
It is as smooth as the LS1 shaft was. They said it would be since it is a larger diameter and thicker wall.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
87camracer
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
4
07-07-2002 03:22 PM
Fbodfather
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
25
06-21-2002 04:12 PM
formula79
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
40
06-21-2002 03:44 PM