As I recall, the stock 10-bolt was within 10# of the Strange 12-bolt. I weighed them both and was surprised how little difference there was.... but it was 8 years ago and I don't remember the exact number.

Somone asked me for a reference to the National Dragster issue that had the info on the losses..... it goes back at least 5 years. I have it somewhere in a pile of articles I tore out of the magazine and saved. I'll post the issue date when I find it.

 

That 1.5 60ft time is "really good" for the 11.60 ET. What gear ratio and slick size are you running? Also, is you car an auto, or manual?

My best 60ft is 1.61 with 11.30s. However, I currently have 3.73s and small 26" tall ET Streets. I'm planning to go to a Moser 12-bolt w/ 4.30s and 28" x 11.50 slicks and hope to have 1.5 60ft times with that new combination. Also, more consistent launches.

WD

 

I did send my backing plates as well as brake mounts. if you don't send them in i think it adds about $240.00 to the price of the rear. The rear went in perfect. I even ordered the chromemoly drive shaft. it came completely assembled ready to bolt in. I've done almost all of the wrench turning to my car and I think this was easy to install. I did the install by myself, I used a large floor jack and set the center on a towel on top of the jack. from there everything lined up right. I don't have the rear lowered its at stock formula height. There seems to be enough clearance for a car with bilstein etc.. but don't hold me to that part. They do offer upgrade brakes for it, but i wasn't too interested at this time. I have the adjustable slp torque arm. with the 10 bolt it was set at -2. when i bolted the torque arm in I didn't change the setting at all. it turned out the setting was at -4. I did adjust it up 1.5, so the rear is at -2.5 which seems to be ok.

 

I was hoping that the shipper invoice would have the weight on it. The bad thing is if it did it wouldn't be close. Strange bolts it to a big pallet and has it enclosed in a seriously thick cardboard box. I bet the weight of the packaging is well over 50lbs. The shipping co usually takes the entire pallet and throws it on a scale.

 

my car is an auto, 26x10.5 mickey thompson et streets, 4.10 gears. I do have nitrous but i haven't sprayed it yet since I've done the rear, converter, and tranny. my sixty foot to be exact was 1.53

 

I'm really impressed with your 1.53 60ft time and the small 26" Et Streets! What is your trap RPM with the 4.10s and 26" ET Streets? Also, what T-Converter are you running?

WD

 

I try and check most of the parts that I bolt on my car using a bathroom scale...... not real accurate, but it helps keep track of whether I'm gaining or losing on weight redction.

 

What kind of accomodations and options are availave for the dana??? 4 channel brakes? What are the gears like?

 

I can't wait to get to the track on jan 5 to pay better attention at the rpm. I never seem to check it and always think about it before or after a run. I know it was about 6k the one time i glanced at it, but I plan to pay better attention the next time out. the converter is a vig 3200. i do wish i would have gone with the 26x11.5 et streets. I was also thinking of moving up to the 28x 11.5s but i'm not sure for now. I can tell you with the current set up the car was still pulling at the trap, how close to the limiter? i don't know cuz I'm a dumb *** that didn't look at the rpm.

 

I also have the Vigilante 3200 and with my 396 stroker it likes to be "flashed" off the line, not hard stalled.

With my 3.73s and the 26" x 11.50 ET Streets I'm showing 6100 trap RPM on the factory tach, however, that is probably only 5950 actual (factory tachs are typically 150 RPM high). Therefore with your 4.10s and 26" ETs, you should have about 6350 on the factory tach (6200 actual).

Next season I'm going to a Moser 12-bolt w/ 4.33s and the larger 28" x 11.50 slicks (possibly the new Goodyear slicks). With that combination, my trap RPM should be around 6400 to 6500 (actual). Additionally, the 28"s should make my launches much more consistent. That is currently a problem with my bracket racing (inconsistent off the line).

With the 4.30s and 28” slicks I hope to get my 60ft times down into the low 1.50s which will also improve my ¼ mile ET (possibly 11 teens). My current 11.34 and 11.40s was during T-n-T with poor launchs.

WD

 

That is a concern of mine which may cause me to go with 28s. I haven't even tried to stall mine up on a launch. i've always launched at idle 850 rpm. I always bracket race and will have to see how well this tire and rear set up work.

 

Basically, launching at 850 RPM you're allowing the Vigilante to “flash-up” off the line. And I believe that is the best way to launch our cars. I tried to hard-stall my Vigilante 3200 at several different RPMs, but flashing it is the only way to get really low 60ft times (1.60s with my car).

Based on your current 60ft and ¼ mile ETs, I bet your car with 4.10s would be “much more” consistent with the larger 28” x 11.50 slicks, or ET Streets. With the small 26” ETs when I have a 1.60 60ft, I’ll run an 11.30, however, when they don’t hold I’ll have a 1.80 60ft and run in the high 11.50s.

What do you think about my proposed 4.30s and 28” x 11.50 for next year?

WD

 

Any thing new from the S60 owners? Noises, breakage, whatever.

 

I have had mine since they first started making them (back in February/March of last year), I beleive beginning of April '06 to be exact...

I got mine with the Powr-Lok diff, 3.56 gears (or was it 3.55), chromemoly yoke, standard metric studs and 3-channel ABS... Installation was quick and painless, except for the torque arm, but that was due to going with the S&W Racecars setup...

For pics:
http://www.darklogic.net/S60-SWRacecars/index.html
http://www.darklogic.net/S60Painted/index.html

I went with the gear ratio that I did because I am supercharged...

 

I forgot to mention I only put a few thousand miles on mine, but it is quiet...