I emptied the reservoir and filled it with fresh fluid and proceeded to "mix" it with the old by depressing the clutch pedal 30 times as shown in the video in the link above. There was very little dirt in the fluid after the first time but just the same I repeated the procedure three more times. This did not fix the problem. I was trying to figure how to do a proper bleed and flush. My two shop manuals are of no use to me whatsoever since they don't tell you how to access the bleeder valve. I took this picture under the car where the hydraulic line goes into the bellhousing. I would assume the bleeder valve is in there somewhere but was wondering how one gets to it.



The only other problem I see developing is a hair line crack in the reservoir. There is no evidence of a fluid leak on the outside so for now I'll just keep an eye on it.



Incidentally the pedal stops on what I will call the final "detent" before it is all the way up. Even in this position I think the clutch is probably fully engaged. This "detent" can be felt if you were to push your pedal down just a bit to the point where you can feel where the pedal get hard. That is the point where mine stops when it sticks.

At any rate if anyone else has any other thoughts let me know.

Dave

 

Since you're more of a do-it-yourselfer than me, you might check this out. This is the drill mod I spoke about earlier. I honestly don't know what the master cylinder looks like. I'd have to spend an hour looking at my haynes manual and shbox's site to figure it out probably.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4484774_adju...vy-camaro.html

 

If it was the slave it would be leaking fluid into the bellhousing. I have talked to several mechanics who have seen this issue repeatedly and they all say the fluid is bypassing the plunger in the MC and returning the the resevoir. The reason that the pedal sticks down is that the mc rod has the fluid behiond it holding it down so it wont come bsck up till lifted forcing the fluid back into the res. If it was the sdlave leaking, the pedal would come back up, but it would drag air into the system as it did. I am totally totally certain that it is the MC

 

What ended up being replaced on the car was the clutch fluid and the entire clutch. There was a lot of clutch dust so the mechanic said it was worn out. Not sure if the master or slave is a part of the entire clutch package or not... but they weren't individually replaced. I know that much...

 

I don't know about other places but when we (napa my employer) sell a clutch kit it does NOT come with Master or Slave. How many miles did the car have again? Im amazed you have to replace it so soon. My little Brother has a 00 SS 6m with in the neighborhood of 160 or 170 thousand VERY hard Miles, and it still has the original clutch. I hope all goes well for you, but if they didn't replace the hydraulics I think you will have problems again.

 

About 16,800, we can't figure out why the clutch was like that either. It's always had a very high catch to it, you'd have to let it out a whole lot to get the car going ever since we got it in 2001. We bought it with about 6 miles on it I think. Maybe somebody decided to do something stupid before we bought it...?

 

also I almost forgot, with an organic clutch like the original factory unit dust is a normal thing to see. I don't think you needed a new clutch at all, but that is only my opinion. aftermarket ones made of kevlar dust much less. did you at least upgrade to a better gripping clutch while you were at it? if so then you still got something out of the whole deal.

 

6 miles is not enough to hurt it even if they slipped it all the way up the hill and missed every gear on the way down. I dunno as long is it is going well now that is what counts right? my car has the same issue yours started with, but I havent had time to fix it yet. My cost on the clutch master is only like 56 bucks so i am getting off lots cheaper than some.

 

No, we replaced with a brand new GM one with flywheel. I believe the clutch was $700 with $380 labor. Wish he notified me in time he'd be getting the clutch... I could have gotten it much cheaper off GMpartsdirect...

 

Most shops won't install customer provided parts.

 

The same guy is doing a mild restoration on the mechanical stuff on our Z28... and he said he couldn't warranty any parts I bought.

So that sucks. Fortunately, one of the priciest parts the Z28 needs (radiator) he's getting at the same price I said I could get off gmpartsdirect, rather than the full ~$400 price from a local dealership.