Yup 2800 is the recommended stall of choice for our cars. I went with a 3000 just to get a little more and stay under that shifting problem. Worked great and talk about waking up the car. A stall any higher probably wouldn't be nearly as streetable as the ones mentioned. The shifting problem can be cured with a tune though if you really want to go that high.

 

I was under the impression the shift kit has nothing to do with line pressure that's why it's safer. It actually replaces certain parts within the tranny with stronger ones to upgrade the trannies overall performance. Line pressure stays the same and the tranny just operates within the peramiters of the shift kit to perform the way it does. So basically the car thinks the transmission is acting like normal even though the shift kit has firmed things up. Everything actually operates like normal, just with stronger parts and a few "tweaks" to make it shift harder. No extra pressure or fluid is needed for it to perform it's duties. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Also I'm no expert on trannies, that's just what I understand. Or the summed up version anyway.

 

is it a big deal that i didn't put a stall in my car? i want to add one later, so i can save the money. Do u need a tune for a stall?
thanks

 

Yes, you have to tune for the stall, otherwise you'll really screw some stuff up.

 

You do not need to tune for a stall. Only if you go above 3000 rpm stalls. Some people have issues with ones as low as 3000 but very few. It won't hurt anything. But you must do the preventative measures. Stalls create tons of heat and make the shifts sloppy. So a tranny cooler is a must. It would irritate the heck outta me having my shifts really soft so for me a shift kit was a must, for you it might be different. I would highly recommend one though. Don't worry about screwing things up if you get one, and you don't have to get one if you get a shift kit. Just like I said earlier, the firmest shift setting on a transgo is going to be way too hard hitting on the street without a stall converter softening it up a little bit. I've talked to some people that got it installed before the stall went it and it was almost dangerous when they drove under somewhat hard throttle because it shifted with such authority. Imagine going WOT and having it slam into 2nd at about 45 and your tires get flashed into a spin. Your **** end would be all over the road and if your not ready it could send you into the ditch or something else. If you only want firmer shifts and don't plan to get a stall for quite awhile then just get the least firmest shift on the shift kit, it will still be much better than stock. Later when you get a stall and you want that firmness back you can go with the firmer setup.

 

If you have 2.73's, get rid of them, I replaced mine after a year and a half with 3.73's. Night and day difference, couldn;t be happier.

 

thanks for all the feedback keep it coming i'd love to hear more peoples experiences and suggestions. If i were to get a stall is it hard to install or expensive to get someone to install it?

 

Not very hard at all if you have any experience mechanically. It's much much much much much much much much easier to install than a shift kit. Did I say much enough? Anyway, I put my car up on 4 jackstands, got it about 2 ft off the ground. It's just unhooking the shifting linkage, the in and out lines for tranny fluid to the radiator, probably the dip stick tube, and 4 bolts on the housing to the engine. After you drop the tranny down, if you want it out of the way just bring it forward so the driveshaft comes out of the end of the tranny, of course the car has to be up high enough to do that. Then you can just move the tranny out from under the car. I can't remember how many bolts the torque converter has bolting it to the flywheel but I think it's 3. Then it slides off the shaft and it's out. Be careful cause that sucker is heavy, I almost dropped mine on my head. Then make sure your new converter is full of fluid as much as you can get and bolt it back on. Make sure it slides on the shaft the right way or the tranny won't come close enough to the engine to bolt back up. A lot of people seem to ahve trouble with that. Then reverse everything and your in. Start the car and check the fluid levels, run it through all the gears and check again, if everything's ok go out and have a blast. One thing to remember is you'll probably need some really long extensions(like 20 inches or more) to get to the top bolts of the tranny. They're way up there and hard to get to. If you have good tools and a long extension with maybe a breaker bar you'll be ok. I borrowed by buddies 3/4 inch drive set cause my 1/2 inch was too flexible and I couldn't get enough force to break the bolts loose. It's quite simple. Took me about 2 days cause I spent a day and a half trying to get tools that would work well for me. Only about 2-3 actual hours of work total, it was my first time and I went slow. Probably would be about half that now.


Man I'm long winded...sorry

 

I have a transgo shift kit in my car and it shifts a lot harder then stock. I personally like it though, because it kinda makes up for the rush of a stick shift.

 

I have a "race-built" tranny, shift kit, 3200 stall and gears on my daily driver. This woke the car up tremendously. M6's are great, but I'll keep my A4.

 

Same here.
Built tranny, 2800 TCI stall, 3.73s.
Trans Go shift kit in the tranny and its a blast to drive, I don,t miss manual tranny at all.
With the right tools a tranny swap is pretty easy. I would rather R&R the tranny than install LTs.