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Been a while since I've been on this site, but I'm looking for some help relocating the battery to the rear trunk of a 1997 LT1 Camaro w/ 383 Stroker at 12.5:1 compression. This was done probably 10 years ago and I've always had problems with it. I'm just now finally getting the motivation to fix it (long story short - I was unmotivated for a long time and the car probably has 1500 miles on it over the past 10 years).
Anywho, the issue - car generally starts without issues, however, intermittently, the starter will click in and out really fast (same sound you would get if you had a dead battery just enough to engage the starter but not turn the engine). This clicking will happen for probably 2-3 seconds and the car will finally turn over and start. Not completely broken but annoying and embarrassing. The car charges just fine when running, voltage is good above 13v. The issue only occurs when actually attempting to start the vehicle. The issue also reared its ugly head as soon as I moved to this rear mount battery setup (never had issues with the front mount with the exact same parts), so I'm sure it has to do with what I'm doing or not doing with the rear mount setup.
My setup is as follows:
- Optima Red Top Battery
- 1/0 Battery-to-Starter (wire ran through passenger compartment - yes, I know I need a cutoff switch for NHRA and a fuse for safety - I am getting around to this but will take suggestions on what is the proper way to configure this)
- 1/0 Starter-to-Alternator
- 1/0 Battery-to-rear body ground (inside rear fender well)
- 1/0 Battery-to-engine ground (wire ran through passenger compartment)
- 1/0 Body-to-Engine Ground (I can't remember where/how/why I did this, but it's there)
No idea what happened to the para.noid website. I never relocated my battery.... just swapped in a light weight.
Checked for corrosion on the wire terminals? How old is the Optima? The shop that built my engine had a graveyard full of Optima Red Tops that only lasted a few months, including mine. They replaced it with an AC Delco Professional. Lasted 7 years with very intermittent use and a constant Battery Tender.
Hopefully someone who has run into this problem will respond. Unfortunately, there aren't many of us left on this site.
No idea what happened to the para.noid website. I never relocated my battery.... just swapped in a light weight.
Checked for corrosion on the wire terminals? How old is the Optima? The shop that built my engine had a graveyard full of Optima Red Tops that only lasted a few months, including mine. They replaced it with an AC Delco Professional. Lasted 7 years with very intermittent use and a constant Battery Tender.
Hopefully someone who has run into this problem will respond. Unfortunately, there aren't many of us left on this site.
Yeah, I figured it would be tough to find someone to answer the question, considering LT1 cars are few and far between anymore.
To answer your questions and start more dialog:
1) Yes, I have checked for corrosion on both ends. The battery end is obviously good since it sits in the passenger compartment/trunk area inside a Moroso battery box, so it's tough to corrode in there. The other end on the starter is good. All grounds are good.
2) The optima is 18 months old and has had a constant battery tender applied to it throughout the life of the battery. I went through probably 3 other optimas because the car was just sitting. When I replaced this last one I decided to invest in a battery tender to avoid some of the abuse on the battery. The car starts right away if I try to start it after the battery tender has been applied. However, if it sits for 10-15 mins without the battery tender applied, it does just as described in the original post on an intermittent basis. The weird thing is, the car can sit for probably 2-3 weeks without a battery tender and it still starts up, just as you would expect in a fully functioning starting system, but the starter clicking does usually occur.
The only other thing that I didn't list in the original post is that I had trouble finding a good body ground in the rear trunk, so it's grounded to a thin piece of sheet metal that I found where I had to grind off some of the paint. Perhaps a less than optimal, but still functional body ground might be enough to cause this. Electrical systems are NOT my strength here, so I'm clearly reaching.
I have a friend who had a low 8-second 30th SS convertible. I think he had a problem keeping his rear mount battery charged, and had to add an extra wire from the front to the battery shut-off switch. I texted him to see if he remembers.
I have a friend who had a low 8-second 30th SS convertible. I think he had a problem keeping his rear mount battery charged, and had to add an extra wire from the front to the battery shut-off switch. I texted him to see if he remembers.
Would be MUCH appreciated if you are able to get that info. Sounds like the exact issue I am describing. Thanks!
I never got a response to the text, and forgot all about it when I spoke to him on the phone a while later. I need to give him a call this week. He's in FL and I'm in NJ.
Quick question my 97 SS is a daily driver and I'm wondering for those who have trunk/rear mounted their batteries have you had any issues with the fumes/vapors from the battery/box inside of the car??
NHRA requires a sealed and ventedoutside the car box. The Moroso box mentioned above meets the rule. There are others. The battery also needs to be restrained within the box with J-hooks through the floor of the vehicle
Alternative approach for a track car, with mandatory master disconnect switch.:
07-01-2019, 02:09 PM
