I noticed lately my trip will reset on my gauge cluster while I start my car. This usually only happens on a hard start such as if the battery was low however its been checked. A couple times it reset after I killed my car trying to free it from 8" of snow which I thought was kinda weird and figured I just had a bad connection at the battery or something. I checked it and one of the terminals was ever so slightly loose so I tightened it up some more. I thought my problem was solved until yesterday I go to start up my car and it struggled a little at first. My lights dimmed and the starter clicked a couple times but finally kicked over and fired up still on the first try. What was strange is the trip was still sitting at 200 miles or so when I turned the key to the ON position but reset after the initial starter struggle.

Anybody think its just my battery? The voltage is usually decent but I cant check the amps. If its bad this will be the 4th Everstart Max in 3 years.

 

Your battery is failing. It can't supply enough current and when the voltage dips, your odometer resets.

 

Your not getting enough current, that's for sure but the battery is one of MANY reasons for that. Don't jump to conclusions regarding the battery.

You should be removing, cleaning and retightening the grounds at the battery, the neg cluster on the fender, the ground strap from the frame to the engine, the ground above the starter and ground up front by the radiator. Clean the terminals on the positive cluster on the fender as well.

Now get someone to crank the engine while you check across the battery with a voltmeter. It should not drop below 11 volts. Once it's running the voltage across the battery should be about 14 volts. There are several reasons the cranking voltage may drop so don't assume the battery is the only reason. A load test of the battery will tell if it's the battery.

Last, those cheap A$$ batteries from Advance and Autozone are a complete waste of time and money. Should have figured that out by now. At least get something good like an Interstate. But don't go getting one until you check the things I suggested.

 

Yeah I realize the battery wasnt of the highest quality but I didnt buy it. And I have a hard time forking over cash for a battery when the one I have is still under warranty.. I figure eventually Ill get one that will hold up for more than 3 years but that seems damn near impossible.

Ill dig out the voltmeter tomorrow. Thanks

 

If you've had a bad connection, this too can make it appear the battery is defective. It will not allow enough current out of the battery as well as not allow enough into it when it is charging.

If you test first, you still should clean all the points I mentioned. Both terminal and contact point. Then retest. Remember if you been cranking on the engine much, the battery will test low but that doesn't necessarily mean it's bad. It could just be low. It will have to charge for a while to get an accurate result.

If you confirm the alternator is putting out by measuring 14 volts or more across the battery, it should be allowed to run for about an hour. Probably a good time to see the country side.

I can't emphasize enough not to jump to conclusions. For example, if you see the voltage across the battery is low when the engine is running, it does mean the only reason is the alternator. This is one reason I said to actually CLEAN all the connection points FIRST.