So after many years of reading, researching, and trying out different things, I have decided to compile here all that I have learned about the factory keyless entry system for the 1993-1995 Camaro / Firebird.

Do I have factory keyless entry on my car?
If you look at your RPO codes, you will see AU0 which will tell you that your car came with factory keyless entry. If you do not see that, your car likely did not come with the option.

Where is the keyless entry module located and how do I access and/or remove it?
It is in the passenger side footwell behind the passenger side kick panel.


Once you remove that panel (four screws along the sill going from the front seating area to the rear seat by the seat belt anchor) you should see it sitting in a little pocket with two connectors at the top.

Disconnect the two connectors and then you should be able to wrangle the module out from the top. Once free it should look like this:

The FCC ID should say: ABO0104R (R for receiver)

I don't have any key fobs....which ones will work with my car?
I show 12522339 as the GM part number from the parts manual. I have seen different ones on the rear of the remotes, so I'm not sure if that number is for the front part of the cover/buttons/board and the rear covers have different ones. I have seen many different styles show up when searching for that number though. Chevrolet, Pontiac, Buick, Oldsmobile, even blank. I tend to search by the FCC ID: ABO0104T (T for transmitter). Here is my Pontiac keyfob and a new, unused, Oldsmobile fob with the same FCC ID that I harvested the board from to make mine work (my used Pontiac ones had some corrosion on the board).




So I see the receiver in my car and I have acquired some fobs. How do I program them?
Shoebox has a great website HERE that outlines how to do it. I have snipped the information just in case his site ever goes down.



I tried to program the fobs and nothing works / unlock doesn't work / lock doesn't work / hatch release doesn't work / some functions work while others don't?
Welcome to the club! First things first, you should check for corrosion on the pins where the connectors attach up top. Get some isopropyl alcohol and give it a good scrub with a brush or new tooth brush to get it clean. Try it again. If it doesn't work, then you may be in the right place to get some answers.

My car, when programmed, would release the hatch and unlock the doors, but the lock function would not work. I searched and posted for months and never got anywhere. Most people just advised replacing the module. It has been discontinued for something like two decades, NOS units are pretty much non-existent, and used ones seem to have similar (or worse) functionality. I decided to crack the module open and investigate. When you open the module case you will see the board:


After pouring over wiring diagrams in the factory service manual, I found the following information. The relay in red is for the hatch release. The relay in blue is for the unlock function. The relay in green is for the lock function. Whichever one of the functions is not working for you (as long as the board itself is clean with no corrosion or other crazy issues) likely it is the relay associated with it that is the problem. I am lucky enough to have access to a reflow oven via friends at my office, so I had mine run through and it worked! Well at least for a few months. Sometimes the relay innards can "stick" with age and the reflow process can help free them up. Unfortunately, the lock function stopped working on mine again, so I decided to look for a replacement relay online and swapped it in. The relays used for the lock / unlock functions are apparently notorious for having issues. They were used in other units for other manufacturers and have a poor reputation for reliability in those as well.

The lock / unlock relays are: EP2-3N1ST
The hatch release relay is: MR 301-9HSL

You just need to remove the solder from the back of board for the affected relay, pop in a replacement one, and then re-solder the new relay in. Here is a picture of the back of the board with the pins circled for the relevant relays:


Replacing the lock relay worked for me and my keyless entry system has been functioning properly ever since! Hopefully this information helps others who may come along in the future and good luck with getting your factory keyless entry system working again!

 

Top-notch writeup! I am sure this will help someone!

 

It's great to see a current post on the 4th gen. Great information!! Thanks



I have a 1995 z28 coupe manual 6 speed. I Bought it in 1996.My 17yo son spun a rod bearing in the original motor last year. We've put in a 383 500 hp stroker and are now trying to fix up some loose ends. Neither of my door locks work. I have completed all the electrical System checks in the service manual on the door locks. It points to replace keyless entry receiver on 8A-132-7. I've done the Grey to the Red/Black and the Tan to the Orange/Black on C2. The locks will work without the receiver by using the switch. I did the continuity test on the receiver

B-C no continuity

H-A no continuity

H-G has contiuity

If I put a jumper on 4 and 8 pins on the DLC I get nothing

I've came to the conclusion the Keyless entry receiver is shot. Would replacing any relays in it help? I'm open for suggestions. I'm learning this as i go.

Thank you

 

I would say yes, I think that would definitely help. If you do not have access to, or know anyone who has access to, a circuit board re-flow oven or would be willing to swap the relays for you then I would check around your local PC repair stores. They may be able to get you to someone who would do it.

 

Thank you for the great info, i successfully programed a remote for my 95 Z28 by jumping pin 4 & 8 of the obd2 DLC. I got a brand new old stock remote from ebay., works great ,,The key fob take 2 cr2016 batteries