Where to get a Bump Steer kit?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 86
From: Phoenix, AZ
Baer "Baer Brakes" is the company that make the bump steer kit. RK Sports just sells it. You could buy it directly from Baer.
Thunder Racing might sell them.
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LT4 HOT cam, GM heavy duty timing chain, Crane chromemoly pushrods, Comp Cams "R" lifters, K&N FIPK, BBK 58mm TB, ported intake manifold, ported & polished heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves, 30# SVO injectors, MSD wires, BeCool radiator, CSI elec. pump, March PP kit, Crane 1.6:1 RR's, Crane ignition, AS&M 1-3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, high flow cat, Hurst shifter, Centerforce DF clutch, SLP flywheel, 3" alum. drive shaft, Strange 12 bolt with 3.73's, HAL shocks, Eibach/SLP springs, Granatelli STB & upper panhard rod, ST sway bars, SLP subframe connectors, Steve Spohn racing torque arm, RLCA's & lower panhard rod, Wolfe Race Craft roll cage, 13" Baer brakes, SLP 17" SS wheels, Auto Meter gauges, LT1-Editor and more... Dyno tested: 370 RWHP w/ 358 Torque http://www.geocities.com/crash607/kurt1.html
Thunder Racing might sell them.
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LT4 HOT cam, GM heavy duty timing chain, Crane chromemoly pushrods, Comp Cams "R" lifters, K&N FIPK, BBK 58mm TB, ported intake manifold, ported & polished heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves, 30# SVO injectors, MSD wires, BeCool radiator, CSI elec. pump, March PP kit, Crane 1.6:1 RR's, Crane ignition, AS&M 1-3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, high flow cat, Hurst shifter, Centerforce DF clutch, SLP flywheel, 3" alum. drive shaft, Strange 12 bolt with 3.73's, HAL shocks, Eibach/SLP springs, Granatelli STB & upper panhard rod, ST sway bars, SLP subframe connectors, Steve Spohn racing torque arm, RLCA's & lower panhard rod, Wolfe Race Craft roll cage, 13" Baer brakes, SLP 17" SS wheels, Auto Meter gauges, LT1-Editor and more... Dyno tested: 370 RWHP w/ 358 Torque http://www.geocities.com/crash607/kurt1.html
Registered User
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 1,227
From: Texas
I know of a fella that owns a BAER bump steer kit that might be interested in selling it. It's never been installed.
I'll send him a link to this thread.
[This message has been edited by mitchntx (edited August 08, 2002).]
I'll send him a link to this thread.
[This message has been edited by mitchntx (edited August 08, 2002).]
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 234
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mitchntx:
I know of a fella that owns a BAER bump steer kit that might be interested in selling it. It's never been installed.
I'll send him a link to this thread.
[This message has been edited by mitchntx (edited August 08, 2002).]</font>
I know of a fella that owns a BAER bump steer kit that might be interested in selling it. It's never been installed.
I'll send him a link to this thread.
[This message has been edited by mitchntx (edited August 08, 2002).]</font>
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WTB: LS1 Steering/brake knuckle. NEED ASAP!!! steve@stevenetworks.com
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96' Z28,Artic White, 6spd,T-tops, leather.
Mods: Yeah I got a couple
My Z
Registered User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 136
From: Stuart, FL USA
The only manufacturer that I know of that makes this kit is BAER. Unfortunately, it did not properly fit my setup (& may have problems with your set-up). RK Sport gave me a full refund.
My car uses Global West Tubular Upper Control Arms and LG Motorsports boxed lower control arms. I have the car lowered 1 inch and set to 1.5 deg negative camber static. With the BAER bump steer kit installed, my toe alignment was undrive-ably toe-out. Dimensions of threading and spherical rod joint provided, had no adjustment room left. My friendly mechanic wasted 2 hours trying to make it work, when I arrived to pick-up the car. Fortunately, I kept the original tie-rod ends in the trunk and they worked fine.
My car uses Global West Tubular Upper Control Arms and LG Motorsports boxed lower control arms. I have the car lowered 1 inch and set to 1.5 deg negative camber static. With the BAER bump steer kit installed, my toe alignment was undrive-ably toe-out. Dimensions of threading and spherical rod joint provided, had no adjustment room left. My friendly mechanic wasted 2 hours trying to make it work, when I arrived to pick-up the car. Fortunately, I kept the original tie-rod ends in the trunk and they worked fine.
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