Aiming these things is definitely a PITA! I don't have enough room on either side of the housings to be able to loosen the bolts, so I have to remove the mounting bolt, pull the housing out, loosen the bolts on the sides of the housing, make my adjustments, and then put the light back in place and check to see if that's where I want the lights.

It's definitely a pain, but I'd say it's well worth the effort.

I also think they sit up a little too high. I may try to find something to put in there to lower them a little.

But...if you look at the last pic on the bottom right, the lights don't look like they sit up too high with the hood down. I'll try and get some more daytime pics soon.

Brian

 

I agree Brian they sit a bit high.

I used a couple pieces of rubber to vertically center the light housing - it's not noticable from the exterior.

Adjusting the beams is a PITA for the reasons you have stated but well worth the effort.

I have found a huge difference in illumination even without upgrading the bulbs.

For the cost of these lights and ease of install I think it's a worthwhile mod.

 

Even for the extra effort to upgrade the bulbs as well as how much of a PITA they are to aim...I'd do it all over again

 

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=290652&page=3

Link to wiring for the conversion. Following the directions that I have found listed by others. If this is incorrect though please let me know and I will modify it. I have not done this conversion yet but am waiting for better weather. Have everything ready, just too damn cold.....

 

I would put something on there about using 12 gauge wiring.

Either that or put a disclaimer...

 

Updated...!

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=290652&page=3

 

That looks good man.
Paul, why are you so concerned about the wiring? Is it just for better current/flow? The stock wiring will support up to 130w per bulb without any problems. That is what the stock 16 (or 14, can't remember) gauge wire is rated for with an added in 20% safety factor.

I know that the thicker wire will provide better current flow, but a relay is supposed to take care of that (voltage drops, etc.) and provide a constant (hence the #86 terminal with a constant to the battery).

But I do know that a shorter route also is the best way to go. I also know that you are supposed to step up to the next gauge of wire if you are running any length over 10 feet...while the distant from the relays (where I put them) to the bulbs is not ten feet, you could safely use 18 gauge wiring with 100w bulbs with a 20% safety factor, and stepping that up to the next level would be 16 gauge (which is at least what the stock size is).

Just wondering man...

 

Yes, for maximum output when getting 16+ volts from the battery... stock wiring will WORK, but not as well as upgraded wiring direct to the bulb.

 

LOL...I forgot all about mentioning that...I figured that was your reasoning tho. Supposedly, and I say supposedly because I am not an electrician, a relay is supposed to take care of some of that work - Brent knows quite a bit on that subject I think...I asked tho and from what I read and what I was told, an inline relay will keep a better current flow, and also supply maximum output with whatever wiring you have...just an FYI...

 

So does anyone have information on the easiest install for these lights? And do the bulbs really need replaced right away? I feel that if I got a whole kit that they would be sufficient from the start. Where can I get some of these? I am concerned about lighting since I drive on unlit backroads. But the stock lighting is a "C" in my opinion.

-Dustin-

 

Silver97z's guide is as good as it gets I believe.
I had intentions of making one - but never have gotten the chance.
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/memberpage/268472/4

There's Brian's conversion info.

You do not need to change the bulbs right away. After going through about 10 different kinds of bulbs - I ended up putting the stock ones back in.
They are not the brightest I used, but they last very long, and they are sufficient/better than stock.

You can get the FF75's off of eBay for the best prices.

Congratulations of using the search feature.
The last post in this thread was over a year and a half ago - it's amazing how much has already been discussed.

 

So I need to buy 2 pair of the driving light version and install them right? And they come with the wiring harness and a relay? I found them on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33709. Anything else I need other than to take back these overly priced silverstars? How do I center mount them like you did 94BlackBowtie? I would like them to be as centered and symmetrical as possible (like the Blue SS pics). Any pics of install(for centering too) or finished product are more than welcome to Ladiesman@cutey.com Thanks.

-Dustin-

 

That place you bought from on eBay is where I was wanting to buy some more from (for other people wanting them but not knowing how to use eBay). They have the best prices I have seen - ever.

All you have to do basically to install them is tap the FF75 wiring harness into your stock wiring harness from the switch (large bulky harness running down the drivers side, close to the brake lines and stuff). Then just "hang" the lights from the cross bar.

Here's you a close up pic. That was from the very first time I installed them. I used a rubber grommet to space them down somewhat. Now I have a nut in there - it spaces it down just right. Paint it black and you'll never know.

Use the wiring harness that comes with them! Do not cut it anywhere except for when you splice into the factory wires from the switch. (Power supply wires).
I now have my relays mounted on the passenger side. I will try and get you a pic, but can't promise you anything - I am pretty busy.

Best of luck.

 

Ok, I am trucking along good in this install, but I wanted more information on how to keep it reversible. 94Blackbowtie, I notice you had the pic with the rubber spacer, I will probably use extra washers, but at what point does it become irreversible? The grinding out of the adjusting brackets on the top right? Otherwise it seems like everything else would be reversible. I am going back out to grind if anyone has a response let me know asap. I am going to grind the holes, I think that doesnt matter, but I will try to do the reversible style. I think you just tapped out the yellow adjusting things on top right 94Blackbowtie? Thanks guys for all the help, hopefully the wiring isnt that bad. I dont need a relay for just the stock hella bulbs right? I have no urge for higher wattage. Thanks fella's I'll just keep using Silver's guide.

-Dustin-

 

Don't know how far along you are - but there is nothing that is irreversible about this install.

The only holes you have to make are in the top of the plastic crosspiece on the car. You shouldn't have to grind or drill anything else.

In that picture I posted before - the part you put a hole in is the piece that has a little hump on the left hand side of the pic then flattens out - then looks like it turns down 90° on the right hand side. The lights hang from there.

You can unbolt/unscrew everything that was on the car stock that you need to get out of your way.

Hopefully this doesn't come too late...by ~30 minutes.
I am going to bed now - best of luck.