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I need LT4 383 stroker help to run a big (300) shot...

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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 10:55 AM
  #16  
rskrause's Avatar
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Re: I need LT4 383 stroker help to run a big (300) shot...

Originally Posted by texasTA
Yeah, I totally understand that 1racerdude. And I ONLY planned on spraying a shot like that with race fuel. I guess I didn't specify enough that I was more concerned about running the pump gas on the street without the nitrous and then using the stand-alone fuel system with race gas and race gas in the gas tank for the track.

Lets restart this discussion. What would be a good setup (crank,pistons, rods) for a nice solid roller LT4 383 with the FUTURE plans to spray? I want this car to be able to be a "reliable" cruiser car. I plan on putting about 4000 miles on it this month in just the first week of June (Hot Rod Power Tour), so above all it has to be able to be a driver first and foremost. If I need to wait until after I get back from the power tour to setup the nitrous, then so be it. I just figured that I need to take into consideration the fact that I want to spray the car while I am doing the rebuild (383).

so, what would you guys suggest for:

Rods? Length and brand and style (Ibeam/Hbeam)
Pistons? Brand and nitrous/traditional
Crank? Brand

I was thinking of going with a Callies Dragonslayer, Pro Mod rods (5.85) and JE nitrous pistons, but Jordon stated that he ran a Eagle setup (crank/rods and JE pistons) up to like 750rwhp without any problems. he stated that the Eagle setup would be a good idea to save soem money.
I have used the Callies/Lunti/JE combo in more than one high boost motor with good results. A couple of hundred dollars more than Eagle. Worth it? I dunno but I like to stick with what I know works. I have no spare motors sitting around! You need pistons specified for nitrous to run a 300hp shot reliably and you should avoid light weight wrist pins. If you get the right pistons they should come with the right pins.

CR will depend on the cam. A big cam will need/tolerate a higher CR and vice versa. You need to pick the CR according to the cam and fuel available.

Rich
Old Jan 18, 2005 | 11:07 AM
  #17  
Injuneer's Avatar
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: I need LT4 383 stroker help to run a big (300) shot...

Originally Posted by captaindbol
Rich, Injuneer,

This is slightly off topic but how much leaded race gas will the 0 2's and cat take before they crap out?
The stock O2 narrow-band sensors are rated 50 hours on leaded fuel. I still have mine, using them as plugs for the holes in the headers, and connected to the stock PCM (which is only used for speedo, IAC and emissions) and one of them is still working after 4 years and many gallons of C16 (6 grams/gallon TEL). I wouldn't even attempt to run leaded fuel through a catalytic converter. I drop the converters out when I run leaded fuel.

A buddy of mine got about 1/2 season of light racing and a lot of dyno time out of his wide band sensors before he had to replace them.
Old Jan 19, 2005 | 11:27 PM
  #18  
racer7088's Avatar
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From: houston, Tx
Thumbs up Re: I need LT4 383 stroker help to run a big (300) shot...

Originally Posted by texasTA
Lets restart this discussion. What would be a good setup (crank,pistons, rods) for a nice solid roller LT4 383 with the FUTURE plans to spray? I want this car to be able to be a "reliable" cruiser car. I plan on putting about 4000 miles on it this month in just the first week of June (Hot Rod Power Tour), so above all it has to be able to be a driver first and foremost. If I need to wait until after I get back from the power tour to setup the nitrous, then so be it. I just figured that I need to take into consideration the fact that I want to spray the car while I am doing the rebuild (383).

so, what would you guys suggest for:

Rods? Length and brand and style (Ibeam/Hbeam)
Pistons? Brand and nitrous/traditional
Crank? Brand

I was thinking of going with a Callies Dragonslayer, Pro Mod rods (5.85) and JE nitrous pistons, but Jordon stated that he ran a Eagle setup (crank/rods and JE pistons) up to like 750rwhp without any problems. he stated that the Eagle setup would be a good idea to save soem money.
I'd still do the Eagle Crank - very easy choice!
I'd still do the Eagle rods - very easy choice and in 5.850 long!
I'd then do custom Wiseco NOS pistons like we do, setup RIGHT, with the money you saved with the Eagle stuff over the more pricey stuff and with some nice NOS .200 wall pins too and you would be SET.
Old Jan 20, 2005 | 12:06 AM
  #19  
CCCCCYA's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 356
From: Oakland City, IN
Re: I need LT4 383 stroker help to run a big (300) shot...

Eagle would work fine at that level I would think. I would personally go with Scat componants and JE customs, but thats my own preference. Your gonna need a premium ring pack too. Hellfire for sure as you'll be generating a TON O heat up top. Just call the piston manufacturer and let them know what you have in store for their product. They will probably recommend a piston design stronger than you actually would need, but it makes for good insurance. When you screw this thing together, be damn sure you put enough gap in the rings too. All too easy to butt the ends on a big shot, and there goes your fun. Maybe .025 to .032 on top with .018 to .022 on second. It's gonna open up a couple thou when the rings seat (mostly from the walls, not the rings). Going 4-bolt steel caps on the mains goes without saying, and I would run a little on the loose side and run a thicker oil (20w50 or so) to give the bearings a little more cusion. As for bearings on this build, I would choose King alecular, but Clevite 77H's are a fine choice too.

You "might" wanna give a little thought to coatings too while you building up. Maybe a nice coating on the piston tops (chamber too if your feeling froggy).

Do all that, and then spray the bejesus out of it (on good gas of course) and start breaking other stuff in short order. Oh, and your gonna need some spare shorts too..

Dave C.
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