Hey guys! My machinest ran into a little problem relieving the block. He's hit a few water jackets in the block. I've talked to a few people and they've mentioned cementing the bottom half of the block.

My question is... What kind of compromise am I looking at in terms of cooling issues if I decide to cement the bottom half?

To me, I can't see much heat getting to the bottom half of the motor anyway but heat travels right.

I really need your guys' input on this. The car will be street driven so, cooling is a must!!!

Thanks, Ken

 

Ken it is very comon to "Hard Block' to the Bottom of the freeze plugs. This also makes the block a little stronger I hear. You will loose a little kooling but not much as many guys are running on the street this way

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Ellis
Team Captain
Team North West F-Body
www.teamnwfbody.org

 

I've rocked several stock blocks for circle track usually about a 1 1/2 inch. No heating problems actually they seem to run cooler. If you do this, has to be done right. You can use concrete but it's a special one (#882 if I remember right it doesn't expand or shink like regular). Make a fixture to hold block so cylinders are vertical than full block to desired level. Take a air hammer with blunt point and hammer along the sides of the block, this shakes the block and causes the concrete to flow evenly all though the coolant jackets. Then Install head gasket and a torque plate of cylinder head and toque down. Let is set at least 24 hours then you can flip block and do the other side. Dont remove the torque plate or head from either side. The block needs to set for at least two weeks before removing heads or doing any machine work. It's usaully easier to over thin the concrete with water to make it flow easier.

 

With products like moroso block filler among others i wonder why your machinist even thought of useing cement?!Tell him to shave his beard and stop dragging his wife around by her hair..

At any rate i wouldnt epect block filler or cement to take the place of cast iron..Id go down there and see about getting another block to work..And save the cemnet for the holes in teh sidewalk..

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88 RX7 GTU, 97 Lt1/700R4,10" 3K stall, 4.30 gears,285CFM heads,12.4-1 compression, custom cam and 2700lbs...Daily driven!

 

Moroso block filler= spendy cement in a one gallon jug. Use the block filler, fill to the softplugs, works great, never had a cooling issue, but I've only done about twenty blocks over the last thirty years.

 

So use the block filler...

So what you guys are saying is that I shouldn't worry about heat issues even though the car is daily driven.

How about strength? Will the filler stay put? What I mean is, Would I have to worry about it cracking or breaking off into the motor?

Thanks, guys! You've helped me out a lot already!

 

you may want to clean the water jackets with a mild acid to get rid of any rust. I've never had any come apart, even after hot-tanking.

 

I talked to my machinest about doing this and he want a product number for this Moroso block filler. He was also conserned with the filler not completely sealing the passages and leaking in some water still. Have you guys ever had this problem?

 

My AFR headed motor is filled to the plugs, and my understanding is that it does increase Oil Temperatures significantly. An Oil cooler might be a good idea, but beyond that Fill 'er up!

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Kurtis Tamez
LT4-396.com
97 Z28 LT4-396
94 Firehawk LT1-396
Team NW F-Body

 

I'd be a little wary of a shop that cuts into the water jacket and isn't familiar with commercially available block fill products.

HardBlok water jacket filler - JEG's 772-860212, $55 for 12#.

Moroso water jacket filler - JEG's 710-35570, $43 for 4-gallons.

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Fred
94 Formula A3: 381/TH400/N2O

Advanced Tech Posting Guidelines
Detailed Mod's List
11.513@115.59 on motor; 11.162@127.67, 1.643 60' on a 125-shot. Going with a 275-shot this year

 

Go back and read the second half of my post again..

 

Mr. Malibu... your the only one thats against filling the water jackets. Why? It does at strength to undamaged areas!

 

got into the water jackets on my current motor and used a Devcon product. Still good after ~5K miles a hundred plus heat cycles. I wish I could remember for certain the name of the product. You can call Devcon at 800-933-8266 and ask which product to use to repair a cast iron cylinder block (that's what I did). Or you could fill it.

Rich Krause

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'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"

 

Have run cemented blocks on the street for years and have NEVER encountered one single problem related to that.

 

Just a suggestion...A experienced welder can build up material in you problem areas.You will have to check everything or rehone cylinder bores,and may have to line bore the mains again after the welding is done..But it will make for a much stronger leak free block,with the addition of fill..considering the block integrity your dealing with any separation in block material which has been broke through most likely will be the area of failure,even with block fill.If you dig around enough you can find some rods with the rod bolts raised on the caps enough to give you the clearance you need for a 3.875/4.00 stroke. The 4.00 stroke takes some time to get right but it can go in the lt1 block with some ingenuity..

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Joseph Overton
94 TA (new combo new year)
old setup:381,.020 over,5.7 rod,afr heads,comp cam,custom intake,1200 cfm tb,42# inj.,aeromotive pump,DFI,dry nos,th400,strange 12bolt,wolfe rollcage,subframes,lca,s
best n/a 10.95@124.06 1.55 60 ft.(footbrake)
best n20(65 jet) 10.28@128.8 1.43 60ft.(footbrake)

[This message has been edited by Joseph Overton (edited July 09, 2002).]