I've considered the welding idea already but the block needs to be heated up to a certain temp, then welded. Once its said and done, like you said the block needs to be recalibrated! To much additional costs IMO!

So... When filling it in, should I just leave the soft plugs off and start filling until I see it at that level? What about the part were he broke through? should I just put tape on it so the filler doesn't ooze out completely?

 

Iroc, dont get it twisted, im all for filling blocks..Its helps keep the bores stable and strenthens the main cap area under hard use..

What im agaist is even thinking of using block filler to close up a hole where a machinist broke into a water jacket..It sounds like your spending some sereous cash here and personally i wouldnt take the chance unless it was welded up..Just the thought of a non metal mateirial in such a hostile envirment doesnt go over well with me..Id rather go and sourch up another block and bring my attitude adjuster to the machine shop to discuss the adjustments of costs because of the there boo boo..Then again thats just me..

 

OK. So what if I say to fill the bottom half on a fresh block as a saftey measure against breaking throught the water jackets again.

Would that be a better approach rather than fixing the excisting block?!

 

The thing i wonder is if it bothers you so much about the temp issues etc.. why not find another block? I am pretty sure there should be alot out there and with all the machining that is going to be needed why not start on a fresh carcas

Steven

------------------
383 Inches of stroked turbocharged fun.
If one is good shouldnt 2 be great?????
TURBO=TORQUE
TORQUE=FUN
Ask me about Burhead Headers If you are gonna use them
My Car

 

OK guys! Heres what my machinest has come up with... Apoxy seal the holes that came up, use blockfill to fill in the rest, and then lay outa layer of sealer just for extra assurance.

Sound like a pretty good plan to me. What do you guys think?

 

Make sure you remachine the main bores it will pull and push it out of shape. Also will need to rehone if it's already done, but then it will be to loose on shirt clearance. Has it had any machine work done to the block yet? Read my other post above if you don't let the filler harden long enuff before you machine it it will pull or push the block enuff to mess up the machine work. I.E. unround cylinder bores and main housing!!!!!!!
You said before you didn't want to weld because you'd have to remachine block. You still have to remachine after filling block!!

[This message has been edited by TAYLORMADE (edited July 11, 2002).]

 

All the machine work has been done already. The clearancing was the last step of machining work that was going to be done!

 

I hate to say it but clearance is one of the FIRST few steps

At least it is whn i am building!

 

Sent you an email on this but thought maybe everyone would like to know who has this same problem.
I read your post and I am in the EXACT same scenario. Machine work is done and they clearanced last…

How did yours turn out?

Did you ever run any nitrous through it?

Had it held up?

Did you remachine it as Taylormade suggested?

My machinist wants to go with the Moroso stuff as well which is fine.

My setup:
Scat custom lightweight forged crank 3.875
Eagle 5.85 H beam forged rods
JE/SRP Forged NA pistons 4.030

I'm hoping that this thing will still go together, not overheat with 1" of block filler and get me into the 10's with my 4400lb car reliably...

Mike

 

No nitrous yet... Still working on the tuning.

My machinest pured the cement with a torque plat on it so it wouldn't warp it. he did a minor honing just to make sure it the walls buldged.

The only problem I had was coolant leaking up the head bolts. Aperantly the ARP bolts are famous for this... no biggie they redid them with lock tight. Also the Moly rings were'nt setting properly due to running rich and low RPM's. I pulled it up to 7000 RPM's a dozen times and it got rid of the blow by.

All in all.. it turned out good. If I were to do it again I'd definatly do the cementing first just to safe the potential headaches later.

 

Well we're going forward with the epoxy and block filler. No choice really.

We'll see how it works with a 250 shot.

Mike

 

Three years on mine now with no leaks,

Rich Krause

 

Great info guys, thanks for the updates and that my block's life isn't over.

Now we just have to get everything working and get her tuned and back on the street.

I'm anxious to see my output and see what she runs!!!

Mike

 

I called Devcon and they said to use Titanium putty 10760.
I'm trying to find a local place to purchase today.
Mike

 

Found it at Graingers!
They stock it for $60 a lb, just FYI for you guys.

Mike