I have heard as far back as the '87 models were all compatible. That was the year they changed to a one piece main seal? Not sure if that's right or not. It just seems like us LT1 guys get raped on the cost of parts. The LT1 stroker kits are all more money than the regular kits.....what is the reason???

I thought the crank, rods,etc were all the same

Can anyone answer this and be totally positive that your answer is correct?

I want to order my stroker kit already and this is frustrating me big time

Thanks guys.

 

1pc. rear main is the only difference.

Rich

 

You can use a 2 pc crank but then it is a little tricky for the rear seal,the set up I am getting is like that.

 

If ya use an early block ya can't use your heads or intake,water pump.
Reverse flow cooling.

 

Thanks guys. Not changing the block just the internals.

 

I routinely look for a commercially available rear main seal adaptor to make use of early crankshafts in LT1 blocks. It's no big deal and you can dump the weighted flexplate and balance everything internally with fewer problems.

c.

 

^ have a link for this, I have never heard of doing that.

 

I know of no active links that describe this operation but there are links to everything else so there may well be one out there. It's very straightforward if you're accustomed to doing your own engine work.

Moroso part # 38315 converts one-piece rear main seal blocks (1986 and newer) to the two-piece seal when installing the old style crankshaft. This number should be specified if you intend to use the original LT1 oil pan.
#10051118 is the GM Performance Parts item for the same application.

An alternative but effective design is sold by Competition Products of Oshkosh, Wisconsin under part # SASBL.

It's a good idea to either buy ($24) or borrow the appropriate alignment tool also sold by Competition Products under part number SBAT. Use of this tool helps avoid rear main seal leaks. I prefer the Moroso/GM adaptor design but I've used them all at various times. Be sure to install the stock paper gasket between the adaptor and the block. It's the same gasket that is used to seal the one-plece seal to the block.

Early cranks are equipped with a keyway for locating the harmonic balancer. On high performance engines I take advantage of this opportunity to install an ATI or equivalent balancer hub and fabricate a permanently fixed timing pointer for quick tuning reference.

 

I know that LTx specific stroker kits are sold but they are not really any different. As long as it's for a one piece rear seal engine it's a bolt in. You do have to make sure that the piston design is suited to the small LTx chambers, and of course check valve to piston clearance with any new combination. Your machinist should know what to look for as far as possible clearance problems for a given stroker set-up. It's best to select rods w/ bolts instead of studs and nuts to minimize clearance issues.

 

350's are neutral balance up front so there is no problem using any 350 after market stuff, like was said before, adapters for using 2 peice seal cranks in 1 peice block.

with strokers you have to find an internal ballance crank, you can't use a 400 damper up front like most 383 strokers get because of the longer hub for the LT1 dampers.

professional products sells a street damper for less then $100 and has timing marks and is keyed for the LT1, nice kit, works with any of the LT1s, Corvette, B-Body, or F-Body, comes with spacers to space it correctly for each application.

my stroker parts wern't any more expensive then other SBC stuff.
cast eagle crank for under $200, 6" rods under $200 , i went with a .020 bore and needed dish pistons, they were hard to find, went with SRP -16cc dish pistons, 398 grams each.

the internal ballance eagle stroker crank uses neutral ballance up front at the damper and at the flex plate. machine shop cut the weight off my New stock flex plate.