I have never had a solid roller but I have a buddy with a cam a little smaller then yours with auto and it sucks on the street! maybe that is just because of the stall he has to run? I dont really know how you define a "street car", but I wouldn't call that setup it.

 

A manual car will act completely different than an auto car... What doesn't work on an auto car might work extremely well with a manual.

Thanks
Chuck

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97 SS #1384
http://www.barncandles.com/camaro/Chucks.htm

Custom true dual exhaust http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/chucks97ss

 

ACTUALLY the combo would work better with an Auto and a high stall much better then it would with a stick. Especially with good lock-up points.

My biggest question is why did you ask if you wanted to argue about all the answers? I am just asking. People asking questions and argueing the answers is why I do not post much in the LT1 Tech section I am in no way upset but do not like argueing answers.

You ask us for experiances and info, we will happily give them, Please do not correct us on our experiances as they are ours and argueing about them will not change an out come we already had

everyone seems to be fairly clear on what they are telling you the end result will be. Sounds great. The over all answer for you here seems to be a set of High velocity 210s OR the set of 220s they claim they can get to flo high Velocity for you. Either will do at the AFR advertised $1014 a bare set. Many can get them cheaper

The cam you have chosen if not used with a set of high velocity heads will shake and surge you like have never felt It may be a good time to mention that your cam is going to want to rev way past the shut off limit of your stock PCM. It would be a waste to have all that power just out side your reach

Looks like you have pretty much all ready made up your mind on parts and such. Let us know how it turns out. Should be a screamer

Ellis

 

You're right... I've been rude. Maybe I was just trying to prove to myself I was right or something. I also felt that maybe everybody didn't understand exactly what I was saying so I could've been frustrated over that too... Either way though, I appologize for being rude. I really do appreciate the help. I've decided to go with Race Prep and have them build me a set of high Velocity 205-215's (220 castings). I think they're the most talented shop I've found so far in my search, so I'm going to go with it. See how it goes. Hopefully the end result will be a pretty impressive running LT1 We shall see...

Thanks again
Chuck

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97 SS #1384
http://www.barncandles.com/camaro/Chucks.htm

Custom true dual exhaust http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/chucks97ss

 

Good deal man!

keep us up to date


Ellis

 

Willl do


Later
Chuck

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97 SS #1384
http://www.barncandles.com/camaro/Chucks.htm

Custom true dual exhaust http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/chucks97ss

 

Chuck: by your definition, it will probably be "streetable" but I suggest you drive a similarly setup car before you build it! It may be good for you, it may not.

My definiton: no stalling, bucking, or surging. Good vacuum. Pulls from not more than 2,000rpm in all gears. Can sit in traffic indefinitely at idle on a 95 degree day with the AC on, etc. You can see why I went the power adder route, as a setup like you are contemplating will likely not be so well mannered, but I wanted equal (or better) performance.

To each his own, but I really think you should "drive before you buy".

Rich Krause

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'95 Z-28 383 with Vortech, nitrous, etc.
"1FASTZ28"

 

I would if I could... I just don't know of anybody around here with anything close to this. I live in Nebraska

Thanks
Chuck

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97 SS #1384
http://www.barncandles.com/camaro/Chucks.htm

Custom true dual exhaust http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/chucks97ss

 

Not trying to sound like a smartass

But if i were in your position contemplating spending thousands in one direction or another, and my not like the end result since you havent been in a car like it- Why not converse with somone on the board with a setup like this, buy a plan ticket for $2-300 go fly for a day to the guy and see his car and how a setup like this is. It's better than spending much more and ending up not liking the end result!

 

Chuck, remember a few things here: First, hp is a function of torque and torque is what accelerates a car. Secondly, flow numbers dont really mean as much as people think they do. You could end up having a faster car with heads that flowed 20cfm less at peak. Area under the curve is what is important, just as low lift flow is.

I had a cammed up solid roller basically "race car" that I drove on the street last year. Basically it sucked. It is probably the car Rich is talking about not liking He drove it.

This year I went with AFR 210s and a pretty small solid roller in comparison. My car is alot more enjoyable to drive, I have experienced NO cam surge at all (believe it or not), and the car gets decent gas milege. It is also making ~470rw I imagine. It is a heck of alot faster than my "race car" last year.

My goal is to run 130mph in the 1/4 NA. Dont know if it will happen this fall, but it will happen. I might need a slightly larger cam, but nothing "racey".

IMO the AFR 220s are too much for a car that is not at the track 95% of the time.

Jason

 

I think Ken and Jason both make good points

1. Go drive one and get a feel for it. Yanking your teeth out at every take off may not be for you.

2. Bigger is NOT always better

Again. GOOD LUCK!

Ellis

 

Yeah, I think you all have a good point... but the big question is... who has a setup like this?? Jimlab I know has a pretty healthy motor... but... like I'm going to ask him if I could drive that fine piece of artwork!!! lol Suggestions?
Jason, you've made second think this cam quite a bit here. I'm starting to also see that it may be a little to large. What size was the cam you had last year? Here are my current thoughts... use this setup for now (cam and heads) and see what I think. Then if I don't like how it drives, swap in a milder cam. The heads I want to get should be just fine street wise. It's basically the cam that everyone is questioning. So I figure if I have to change out a cam that won't be too big of a deal to me. it'd be fairly cheap and easy to do.

I think that sounds like a pretty decent plan. It'd still be nice to find someone with a setup like this I could "test drive". That just might be hard.

Thanks
Chuck

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97 SS #1384
http://www.barncandles.com/camaro/Chucks.htm

Custom true dual exhaust http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/chucks97ss

 

Take a look here: http://web.camaross.com/bb/Forum30/HTML/001127.html

Basically-
-Jimlab: Cam Motion solid roller, 26x/26x deg. @ 0.050", 0.6xx"/0.6xx" lift, 112 lsa
-BigRick: Cam Motions Billet Solid Roller 275/284 @ .050" 0.718/0.736" lift 112 lsa
-81ZMouse: Crower Race Roller 282/286 @ 0.050", 0.783"/0.731" w/ 1.75/1.6 rockers 108lsa

 

Well i am going to step out on a limb here

I have a 242/248 585/586 112lsa solid roller on the stock 350, and it drove like a dream with no tuning (as far as cam surge) but had little power since it was pulling 9*+ at all times
But shouldn't more cubes make a larger cam more streetable? I mean Chuck's cam is only 261/269.5 .674/.685 111.3lsa. Get where i'm going with this...

Watch Christian bust in with a 'pass the pipe' comment

 

Just e-mailed big rick... we'll see what he says.
Interesting thoughts Kmook. But, my cam is considerably larger than even Jordon's cam was... W/ the right heads though who knows... maybe this setup will just suprise everyone. Guess we won't know until we get it all together... which that might not be for awhile Anybody want to contribute to the "Help get Chuckies car running foundation"?

Later
Chuck

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97 SS #1384
http://www.barncandles.com/camaro/Chucks.htm

Custom true dual exhaust http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/chucks97ss