Didn't mean idle tuning. But since it idles at 70kpa, that only leaves 70-100kpa on the VE tables. Not much room for finesse tuning.

 

Calculate velocity through the throttle body & size it to minimize losses.

This has been discussed a few times. Search for "throttle body velocity".

-Mindgame

 

You want wide to narrow - a smooth transition is good. LS1 intake port = large to smaller at the bowl. Go to burnsstainless.com and look at the collectors and collector tuning devices. Regarding cylinder heads, you cannot avoid transitions unless you are N2ODave or Mindgame . Your headporter's job is to make the transition and airflow best friends.


Looks like a converted EFI intake and a Wilson elbow just got back from the powder coating oven .

Its a trade off. Smoother transition (with off the shelf parts) means tall. Fit under the stock hood and you'll decrease the SSR. How much do ya give up? That lies the question. I'm betting the loss is minimal and it is still worth the swap if your budget allows. I'll know for sure soon enough. If you don't wanna waste time, go custom. Else, all the other options out there involve compromise. I've had a couple caution my setup, but these people are not making power or doing anything different. It is all theory and BS. People want to get faster than everyone else, but they don't wanna try. They want something pretty to open the hood and show off. I recently had a machine shop with a great rep recommend I stop progress with the EFI and go to an LT4 manifold with LT1 heads.

Quit talking, start racing, and show some numbers! If ya can't produce, ST heck U!!

/rant off.
Ryan

 

LOL!

I see that now!

 

For all the doubters....

It clears the cowl, and I have vacuum ports in the flange, so I could go shorter if necessary.

 

That looks nice.
But did anyone help me out with my question? I want to know if anyone makes an elbow like that which matches up with the LT1 or TPI style TB. I saw an edelbrock one awhile back...but it necks down pretty good after leaving the intake, I guess to put the TB back in the factory position. I would like to use one of these if the losses were minimal.

 

just make your own

 

I answered your question back on page one months ago you silly goose

 

umm, duh, lol! I got

If this is available, why does everyone go with the Ford throttle bodies? I like the style of the one on the sullivan website more, and the fact that it necks down may help make it fit under a stock hood (maybe not). I dont know how much work it would take to make a GM TB fit on it though. Should just be a matter of welding up the mounting holes and drilling/tapping new ones (if they didn't line up)for the TB and cable brackets, right? I figured the GM IAC would take minimal fabrication, given it's design. Also on a hunch I would think the use of a GM TB would help limit the tip in hesitation due to the linkage.

What I also like is from the look of it, besides not being so plain, is that it looks like for more flow it would just take more porting, kind of like an intake port, leave the floor alone and open up the ceiling?

 

Did you ever end up finding one of those adaptors?

The sullivan adaptor looks really nice but it seems like it would take quite a bit of work to make everything work together in the stock configuration...ie not for most of the street strip, 7K and below RPM setups that we see on the site.

 

He did answer that....

I'm working on that too. It's just going to take a little bit.

Either way Chris's setup shows how well the off the shelf parts work.

Bret

 

Umm... nope its far from that easy. The Ford TB is 65mm twins and the throttle bores are wider spaced than the GM one, not to mention the bolt holes for a GM TB end up in the throttle bores of the Ford and the throttle cam hits the side of the elbow..... BTDT.

I got a raw casting from Scott of one of his elbows and I've been playing with it now for a while. I also think the only way it's going to bolt up is to either REALLY jack with the fuel injector position and put it in a bad spot OR throw a spacer under it.

I've pretty much seen everything there is on getting TB's to hook up to single planes. Then again how many people have more than one LT1 single plane in their possession. (I have over 5 now)

Bret

 

So I guess, it's either run that sullivan adapter with a 1" spacer and a cobra throttle body converted for the LT1, OR change hoods, get the wilson elbow and a matching TB. Then there's the accel one, which will most likely need another hood as well, it looks just as tall as the wilson elbow. But at least I can keep the GM style TB. Kinda want to keep the motor all GM.

Now that I think about it, I'll most likely need another TB anyway, since I'm only running a ported stocker (52mm). Hell, the stock cobra TB is like 57mm I think, and you can get those fairly cheap from what I've heard. Looks like I need to do more research!

So the sullivan spacer runs so close to the injector bungs that it interferes with their positioning? Must be a wide ****

I'm also guessing that the victor jr isn't as popular with the swaps as the super vic because of the height of the manifold giving up runner length and/or flow? That shorter intake would help out if that weren't a problem.

 

I won't have a Ford t/b on my car....its a Wilson

 

TQ: Doubters? ¿Que Que?

It looks great, but it would be close to fit under a 2" cowl hood, IMO. Keep us updated.

dhirocz: Please go back through and carefully read the posts made. Jared answered your question earlier and I've answered your question about fitting under the stock hood. It can be done. Steve Quinn did it and ran 138mph (stock LT1 castings).

Bret: Where does the Sullivan interfere with the injector/rail? You said you've had one for a while...have you modified it or done anything with it? To run a 90mm throttle body takes the same modifications as it would take to run a twin Ford TB (throttle cable, TPS, IAC). The pricing on a Sullivan adaptor and stock Cobra TB is probably close to a Wilson elbow and 90mm (I'm guessing the elbow setup would be a little cheaper). I'm sure you've thought about this direction, but why wouldn't it work? It seems simple, but I don't have one.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...6_118_full.jpg

Get a vice, slap a new blade in the sawzall and warm up the TIG. If not, just send the adaptor to me. "RTR Performance" has all the tools . I'll try it and let ya know...

Ryan