Hey, I agree with ya Bret.

It would be nice if the guys who build these would attempt to show some pictures of that area. Tough to tell from that view but yeah, it looks like it could be a really sharp turn. In that case, use a big honking throttle body to keep the velocity down. LOL

-Mindgame

 

Well, I started to build my own "adaptor" on my Wilson elbow. Here are a couple pics and some random thoughts. Keep in mind I'm just a punk with some imagination, a sawzall, vice, and a couple porting bits...

Intake:



Dr. Gas sells oval to round transitions. I had to get on the phone and get them to expand (and reduce) the transition size I was looking for. Total cost for the oval to round transition is about 45 bucks plus shipping. I built these flanges out of 16ga scrap metal (5 bucks for a 1'x4' sheet). This stuff ain't pretty, but I lack the really groovey tools . Once I get the transition I'll cut it to fit and weld it together. Also, one thing worth mentioning is that I will probably cut down the t-stat casting in the intake to keep the TB as low as possible. That, along with brass fittings from Home Depot and I will be close - no bling AN fittings for me...I already own a tube bender and flaring tool. Who needs $20 90º red/blue fittings? Not me . The goal is to get this thing together and compare for an honest back to back comparo. So far it fits fine under the stock hood, FWIW. There will be no (nasty) cowl hood on this turd.




Yeah, its ugly. But, it is mine .

Ryan

 

Man Ryan that intake is SHORT in height. I bet Ive got a couple inches on it. Have you mocked it up yet?

 

Hey Jared. The intake fits fine under the stock hood. Elbow was milled about .750" and the intake itself was milled a bit. It fits even with the stock hood blanket. However, since I've decided to used the stock TB after reading about tip in tuning issues, I will need to to get creative. That is why I'm planning on cutting the t-stat housing down a bit.

Remember, you have a Super Vic. I saw it a long time ago when the motor was still at Jason's house http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...76_50_full.jpg . This is a plain jane #2975 Vic Jr. So, I've sacrificed some angle to fit under the hood. I guess you have an Ultra Z hood or an SS hood?

Obviously, the best way to reference the height is by the fuel rails. I will take a pick of it mocked up on/in the car before I bolt the stock intake back up.


Ryan

 

Ya I know the super vic is taller, it just looks even more tall seeing yours. Ill post up a picture at the end of this week that is almost the same angle that yours above was taken from. Its just on my desktop in cincy, and Im up north.

SS hood, and I still took the cookie cutter to the underside of it

 

Just like anyone else...I would like to see the difference in power gains between the super and regular. I'm sure the super is more ideal, but I don't want to give away the hood. Keep us updated...your new combo should make a smooth quinientos .

Ryan

 

Here is the most recent picture of mine. Fuel rails are on back order right now, but as soon as I have them in my hands along with the intake I can get some pictures posted up. I plan to take another .5" off of the elbow to help with hood clearance. I have a stock WS.6 hood (96-97 style) and I am expecting to need to cut some of the bracing out of it.

Here are some pics without the elbow and the base still open.



As said in my sig, its a BRE unit.

 

I thought that looked familiar...

 

You've never seen that before ;-)

Guys not milling the carb flange on the Super Vics is a good idea... you have to port the intake to work around that and you will kill the area to put a good radius into the runner if you mill it too much.

Bret

 

Atljar:

Are you running MAF or speed density? Is it possible that a speed density tune could alleviate or at least help with this problem?

Chris

EDIT: Also, I know you say low TPS values is where you are seeing this issue, but do you have any specific values?

As seen in my previous post about % area open, the 90mm is ahead of the monoblade at all throttle angles. An 80mm unit would cross the monoblade line at about 27% throttle and have upto 20% less area by full throttle. However, what does an 80mm unit flow? I think most people might be able to get by without a 1350cfm throttle body.....

 

IOW, know what your doing before you hack it up .

Ryan

 

Chris-
There isnt any one % value it happens at. I complain about low TPS, but its even a little noticable if you have a fast TPS change cruising.

Speed density is next on my to try list. Problem with that is that I have a rather large cam, it idles at 70kpa. Doesnt leave much table to tune with.

 

Well I just looked up the flow specs on the 80mm unit. Wilson claims 965 cfm on the 80mm vs 1170cfm for the 90mm. How does one figure out what size throttle body is needed other than trial and error?

As far as tuning idle, try an open loop idle tune if you haven't. It will save alot of headaches with large cams.

I assume that its worse when starting below 20% throttle, as thats where the huge difference is going to be between the monoblade and the 90mm unit.

 

I'm talking about how it comes in from wide to narrow. If that's not the problem, then what is?

 

Think of the short side radius in an intake port. With that abrupt drop, its just a cliff.