Can a 350 run when the timming its 180degs. out of rotation. I just put on new heads, headers, and a holly stealth ram intake. I took the engine to top dead center, by bumping over the engine until a air came out of #1 cyl.. Then put #1 spark plug wire where th rotor button was pointing and went around clockwise following the 18436572 firing order. Coudn't it to run so I put the wires 180 deg's around to where the firing order was 6572184. And it runs but not very good very bad hesitation and feels it only runing on a couple cyls. What an I doing wrong?

 

Well the computer is probably still giving fuel to the proper injectors (18436572) so that's why only a couple cylinders are firing. I don't think there's a way around. Just spin the distributor and put the wires where they need to be.

-Corey

 

Yes, you can use the 180*-out firing order on the cap (65721843) if you dropped it in at the "wrong" TDC and it'll run (the plug wires will be a mess, but it'll be firing the right plug at the right time). If it's truly 180* out and you don't move the plug wires around like that it'll never run. It'll "cough" occasionally through the intake but it'll never run.

When the injectors fire won't make any difference in whether the engine runs or not as long as they're injecting the correct amount of fuel.

 

I pulled the distributer out and turned the rotor 180 and put it back in, and its running about the same after getting the #1 wire in the right place. Sonds fine at idle, even when I rev it up will parked, but as sone as I put it in drive it tries to die out. If I floor it though it hesitates bad then shoots up to red line realy fast, and leaves a nice little cloud of rubber. I had the fuel regulator set at 42lb and have played with it but didn't notice anything. This sucks.

 

Good call, TPI systems are "batch-fire" anyway so one whole bank shoots at the same time. What was I thinking?

 

Did you get the Damper mark exactly on "O" at TDC?
You might also want to verify that your damper hasn't spun.
You'll have to either look in the #1 plug hole with a light, or carefully feel in there with a small screwdriver. When you get the piston to its highest point, while rotating it in the direction it usually turns, then see where the timing mark is pointing, mine was spun almost 3/4"!!!
I always mark my distributor body where I want #1 to point, then play with the distributor and line up the oil pump driveshaft (a tire iron works great) so it rotates and drops right on it..
I always put my finger over the #1 hole and turn the crank until I get pressure escaping past my finger..then stop at "O" on the damper mark.

 

You sure you don't have a few valves adjusted down too far and hanging them off the seat? It'll idle like crap and backfire/cough but will seem to run better as the RPMs get over ~3000.

 

I think you might be better off finding out where #1 TDC is manually instead of relying on the dampner alone. Then you will know where to set your #1. You are sure of the firing order and you have set it correctly, right?

 

I found the problem it was how I had the MAP sensor hooked up. I had it tee'ed in behing a little black check value thing.
It's not running as good as it should. Just a little miss.

For the values you suppose to turn 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after the slack it out right.

 

3/4 works fine, as long as you have the TDC correct for each sequence. If the damper is off, you'll overtighten some and undertighten some. Look at the threads left above the nuts, if there's a BIG difference, somethings wrong..

 

That is why I suggested checking the TDC of #1 manually so you know if your dampner is bad. If you know it is good then put a punch mark on the dampner so that if it moves, you know it is bad.