I just installed a Holley stealth ram intake along with some trick flow head and some headers. I'm running into a problem where I can't get the engine to run right. I though it was the timming at first but I'm pretty sure the timming is good. It has a very bad hessitation when in drive, could bearly make it around the block, but revs up fine in park, maybe a little rough.

Should I have not taking off the ported vacume switch since it went to the egr vaulve, which is gone of course?

What does the black square vacume sensor do that was mounted to the back left side of the TPI intake? I just mounted it off the side and tee'ed it off on of the vacume lines coming off the back on the hsr intake.

Is there something I might have hooked up wrong to make it run this bad. I also get a check engine light a couple seconds after start up.

Any help would be great, before I go and start hitting it with a big hammer!

 

Yeah, the "thing" you described is the MAP sensor, it's critical to get a "good Manifold Vacuum signal", if you "teed" in in the wrong place, that's it..
And can you check the codes and see what codes are lighting your "check engine" light?
Plug all unused vacuum lines also..

 

Found the problem. Its was the MAP sensor, I had it tee'ed in behind the little black check vaulve. I guess it just getting enough vacume fast enough.
Thank for the help. Now I just have to take the intake back off because it's leaking oil.

 

How easy is it to install? What problems? Just curious.

 

Yea let us know. How you did the fuel lines? My husband is currently workinging on mine.

Step by step would be great

 

Still haven't fixed a oil leak on the back of the intake (at least there where I think it coming from). For some reason the HSR intake seems to be a little to long and doesn't line up right on top of the ledge on the back of the block. I've got a picture of the problem but I don't know how to show it.

For the fuel line I used adapters (9894DBH, 9894DBJ) to go from the stock metal line to AN, here is a link to them
Fuel line adapters
then used 2, 150deg 6-an fuel line fittings to run the lines back under the master cyl, and the supply behind the distributor and up to the fuel rail using a 90deg 6-an fitting. The return goes under the master cyl and back aroun to the fuel reg. using a 45deg 6-an fitting. I used 6'4" of 6-an fuel line. You should be able to use just 6' of fuel line and save yourself some money since that stuff is so pricy, and it only comes in 6' or 10'.S all to getter;

Adapter 9894DBH
Adapter 9894DBJ
2-150deg 6-an fittings
1-90deg 6-an fitting
1-45deg 6-an fitting
6'4" of 6-an braided fuel line

There's also some NPT to barb fittings, NPT reducer, and a plug for the vacume lines on the back and the temp sensor and extra hole on the front.

I've got pictures of everthing if you want it.

 

As far as how easy. I'd say not to bad, but I haven't fix the oil leak yet. So right now I'm not to happy about it.

Problems.
1. Was the thottle body linkage hit the fuel line fitting on the front of the fuel rail, but that was a easy fix. I just bent the whole metal semi circle thottle linkage thing on the thottle body out just a little, didn't take much to make it clear (1/4").

2. You'll have to fine a place to mount the MAP sensor. I cut two notches in its old braket and mounted it to the A/C evaporator housing. So the connector still reached it.

3. You'll have to cut a notch in the coil bracket where it mounts to the intake. There's a little web on the intake that it has to go around.

4. The water goose neck. Not realy a problem. But I used one of those chrome deals that come straight out and a flex hose (I think it was 1-1/2 on one end and 1-1/4 on the other but I would have to double check).

5. The hood. I guess it fitts. I closed the hood but it pushs up the back of the hood some. Probable just need to dent up the support there or cut a little out or sommething.

Send me a e-mail if you want some pic's of this stuff.

 

also post over at www.stealthram.com about your swap. and you can submit your car into the HSR CARS section. i own the site.

 

I didn't run into any of the problems you encountered in your HSR installation. If anyone wants fuel lines already made up they are available from Earl's which already has the ends made up on the hoses. Installation was straight-forward and very easy.

 

can you send me the part numbers you used for the made up lines? www.supersportperformacne.com has a fuel line kit that i used. but i'd like to add it to the www.stealthram.com site also.

 

We went to a local Store here & had them pro made. We ened up with the Braded lines. Since this car is also a dragracer, We had to not go with reg rubber hoses. No one had stuff that were smaller then stock fittings for the one sided of the fuel lines. So we had them cutt off & welded to the new lines. it worked & now my engine compartment is looking better then the whole car lol.