Countryboychevy

Ok I have 95 lt1-5.7L. And it has alot done to the top end. Getting really hot and I was told the heater core was stopped up too. I changed the thermostat. Still got hot. Haven't blew the heater core out yet, Well it ended up blowing the head gasket , something did I think. Oil looks like milk. Ok well it has a elderbrock lt4 intake on the lt1 heads. When I took the intake off the gasket on passenger side , I don't think was on right, the little plastic things that hold the gasket in place was flat, they where laid sideways and look smashed could that be where the water was coming from. ? But I'm going to change the head gaskets anyways because it got rely hot. I'm doing this work myself. Can I take the intake off or move it aside to get the heads off without taking the rails off to. I tried and they want move at all. Anyways I don't want the same problem when I get new gaskets on the car. What could be making it hot. Water pump doesn't have any water coming from the weep hole, so it must be something else, if the heater core is stopped up maybe the radiator is too. It looks like rust or something in it. Also I plan on putting a cam in the car for more hp. What cam would work the best to give me the most and also match the intake and bbk 58mm throttlebody MSD everything and elderbrock headers that I have on the car now. Race and still drive to work and back. But sound mean too.. I know it's alot of ?? But I just want to be able to take it to bristol street fights in Bristol Tn and show up some ppl and still drive home after. But first I have to fix my heating problem.. thanks for your help..

Fatdog2

Sounds like the radiator may be clogged.I suspect the water pump as well.What year car do you have?Post a sig at the bottom of your message so the real pros can advise you,not guys like me who guess a lot.I wasn't aware a lt4 intake could match up to lt1 heads,but I learn new stuff every day here.Hope this helps.

Injuneer

What is the actual temp shown on the coolant temp gauge when it is "really hot"?

Are you asking if coolant can leak out of the pilot hole in the head, for the nip on the gasket? Doubt it... since the intake manifold is dry, and there are no other coolant passages touched by the gaskets. But stick something in the hole and see.

The Shoebox cam swap procedure shows that you can pull the manifold with the rails intact:

4th Gen LT1 F-body Cam Removal


Faulty coolant temp sensor
Fans not operating at the programmed temps
Plastic air dam missing from under front bumper
Air in the system, not bled properly
Air flow to radiator blocked
Radiator support seals not in place
Sludged up cooling system
Incorrect coolant level
Engine running lean
Plugged cat
Ignition timing incorrect
Worn drive gear on water pump
T'stat not opening
Incorrect t'stat (LT1 is unique)
Pump suction hose collapsing

Would strongly suggest that to avoid confusion you limited this post to the overheating problem. Then start a new thread regarding cam selection.

PS: "Edelbrock"

Countryboychevy

Ok. Well my camaro is a 1995 lt1-5.7L with a lt4 elderbrock intake and bbk 58mm throttlebody MSD everything ss cold air intake , with k&n filter and SS ram air hood. High flow oilpump, elderbrock 2 1/2 inch headers and Y pipe, Flowmaster exhaust system, Mass air I can't remember, anyways. Thanks for breaking it down the way you guys did. Lots of help. Ok I drained the water about a week ago and when I started taking the intake off I got under the car and for some reason I squeeze the water lines coming from radiator up to water pump and they feel like crunchy from the inside, lining the inside. Ok the old thermostat that was in it after I took it out I put it in boiling water and it didn't open, I was told I could run it without it and I did for about a mile and it went to 280 or higher in 30 seconds from 160.. so I put a new one in it but it's to late. White smoke and milky oil.. no water coming from weep hole in water pump. Heater core is stopped up so I think the radiator is to. I bleed the air for 30 mins or so and after about 5 mins I would open again and more air would come out from bleed hole. Not cap.. after it started getting really hot my 4l60e trans started slipping, don't know why that is. having my heads resurfaced and cleaned and new seals put in heads.