okayyy.................

Heres the Detroit Locker

 

ok, so they have one with a brain now... still the same concept, but i guess its good they added a slip feature... but an original detroit locker was a welded spider gear... and that is usually unsafe and a stupid move.... and still? a 97 SS didnt come with a detroit locker, it still has the limited slip... as to my knowledge

 

yea, probably came with an Eaton

 

maybe, im not sure on the manufacturer, but i do know it had a limited slip... and not a full posi unit...

 

by the way, i noticed you had an iroc in your sig line..... but a 305? was that some special option in 89? cuz as far as i know, all IROCs came with a TPI 350.... which is what made them so much hotter than the Z28 or RS (305) that car have a story behind it or what?

 

the 305 was the base engine for the IROC, and ending in 89, the 305 TBI was base, both the 305 TPI and the 350 TPI were options on top of the base IROC package, 90-92(90 IROC and the 90-92 Z), the 305 TPI was base

 

I do have a built 355(10.7:1 CR, dart heads, CC XR270HR cam, TPI, DFI electronics) in the garage , waiting to go in this winter

 

always thought that the 350 was what made the difference between the Z and the RS.... why not get an RS? no difference...

 

a rebuilt 350? why did you only do it up .20 over? shoulda went with a 383 if you were going to rebuild a 350... i woulda wanted that compression ratio

 

I had a forged 350 crank laying around, so, a 355 was cheaper for me

and a 355 is .030 over(ok, it is really 354.9 cid, but a 350 is 349.6 cid)

 

? machine shop said rebuilding a 350 properly requires boring it out .020 over... making it a 355...?!?!? you read the top of the pistons before putting em in? only reason i ask, is that i was thinking of rebuilding my motor, and the guy at the machine shop has a 95 Z like mine and rebuilt his as a 355 with .020 over pistons....

 

huhh?


it is .030 over, .030 over pistons

 

i know man lol im saying, the guy who rebuilt the same motor as mine, said he rebuilt it to a 355, and used .020 over pistons in it... and hes a machinist.... but maybe you can use .030 or .020 in a 355... ive heard also that if you bore your cyls .020 over you can still use stock 4.000 pistons in it... *shrugs* doesnt sound right... but ive heard it....

 

The detroit Locker issue has already been explained, I wasn't the first to own the rear.. since it came out of a wreck.. I changed posi units.. the balanced driveshaft.. yes it was balanced.. but it was almost 20 yrs old.. it wasn't bent, but I wanted to make sure.. some metal was takin off the yokes when it was Balanced to 15,000 RPM Oh.. New yokes where installed on the STOCK steel driveshaft. I don't trust aluminum. Motown 220's are very similar to Pro 1 220's.. Very good heads, in my opinion. a Retrofit Hydrualic Roller Lifters is a Hydrualic Roller lifter that comes in a kit to be RETROFITTED into a NON Roller Block.. Very Common.. Crane cams, comp cams, crower they all make them, They were probably out before you were born.. 1983, given that is the bday in your profile... My Dart Little M block can be bored out to 4.250 without any problems.. What are you talking about water jackets? I know 4.180 Bore - 3.875 Stroke Isnt' a 427 it's a 425.. Kinda like the 355 with a .020 over.. That's only 353.. .030 Over on a 350 block would be a 355... 15.6 on Completly Stock 86 Iroc in 2002.. I think that is pretty good. People have talked about making 16sec passes on stock 305's some talk about making 15sec passes on 350's.. Given a completly stock car I thougth 15.6 was commendable.. Given that it sat for a year in TULSA, Ok before I bought it and DROVE it back to Detroit... Still pretty good.. Only 42K on the car, no rust.. Times with the 427.. Don't know.. Never have taken it to the track.. It doesn't run as good as it could, I don't have DFI yet, That should unlock quite a bit.. I bet it still is putting out around 400-500 with stock computer and lots of programming.. I only drive it every great now and then.. It's not finished and I'm in no hurry..

Here's a link to help you with all of those pesky calculations..

https://www.camaroz28.com/services/calcs/

I have heard the cut your car to fix your pump thing long time before I even had pump problems.. There's web sites dedicated to it.. I wouldn't recommend it.. I have modded the same way a 1988 TBI 1500 Chev. (Which is Identical engine as thread starter) moded my 98 Tahoe the same way. The fuel systems on Chevrolets arent that dependable.. Changed lots of fuel pumps for myself and for others.. This is the best professional looking, and professional done fix for this problem.. Pumps go out, If you have any plan on modding heavily or keeping your car forever or for any long period of time, you will never have to drop your tank again...

 

never have to drop the tank again? now there is a concept.... you wouldnt think of it, but what about a crack in the tank? or a busted guage float? or even a piece of chalked rubber tubing.... anything can bring you right back to that same area again in the futue... god willing.. it wont be your pump again... but if it does? at least you have a place to start... and the procedure will only take you the time it takes to take the unit out of the tank... and not the time it would take to DROP the tank again... the way i see it? they should have cut that door out STOCK! it should have had an access door from the factory.... as for it not being "professional looking"... whose going to lift up the deck carpet to look for a hole in the body? and even if they did? im sure the 1st thing you will hear is "good, so they changed the pump already...." and the thought of them being able to get back into the area again later without spending all day doing it will be candy for their thoughts.... (all this assuming the reason your worried about someone else not likeing the idea, is because your trying to SELL them the car) other than that.... who cares what anyone thinks? its not hindering the looks, performance, usability, or mechanical function of ANY parts.... its a service door that makes the initial job easy, and makes future jobs even easier.... thats how i look at it... and since NOBODY even GIVES a damn to lift up the carpet...... i fail to see the problem with it...

as for the conversions? like i said, my info is from a machine shop.... not that those are the guys putting together the motors... all they do is machine them... but my source is trusted as a professional machinist... if hes wrong? well damn... guess that sucks... but its not to my "personal experience" that a .020 over bore is precisely a 355.... i only know what i hear about conversions... i hate math... as for the use of heads? i would have went with AFR... i believe they make a nice set for a BBC... but then again.... its all hearsay... right?

and for the retro lifters? i had my perceptions of precisely what you were speaking of kinda screwed up... thats my bad.... for some reason i still had the thought of your old motor in my head... because as to my knowledge, they already had hydro roller cams... or maybe its just roller? dont know.... not a big stock guru, i like aftermarket