Hi i just bought a 1988 305 TBI 5mt and I need some help. The car won't sometime last night went to the store came out the house it started fine drove it to the store went in came out tried to start it and it would not start. the motor truns but it won't start up some guy saw me having trouble and came over to help he took the air filter off and looked down in there while i tried to start it again he said that it was dry he said when trun the key gas should spray down in the carbs. also got it started after leting it sit for while when to the gas station to put gas in. just in case i left the car running while gassed up and checked the car out some more. after about 5 or 6 min is shut off and i had to wait off a 30 min to get it started please help it you can follow this mess

 

sounds like a fuel pump or fuel pump relay prob. im thinkin

 

So I guess this is not something I can do my self huh. What will engine have to be removed or something

 

Thanks gunny.

ps are you a Marine

 

definately fuel pump..... but dont have to drop the tank, do what i did, cut a port on the top of your trunks "hump" where the pump is at... easy access save you a bundle too!

 

One down side to cutting a hole in the hump is you may have a gas smell in the car. I did that in an 87 Iroc. MUCH easier to change the pump, but after everything was said and done, there was a constant fuel smell in the car. It wasn't real strong, but you could tell it was there.

 

yeah well, you gotta make sure you silicone the metal flap back in place, so its sealed up... as for spillage in the car? gas evaporates in less than a few hours.... if you were smelling gas? you must have had a gas/vapor leak somewhere in the tank area....

 

Where can i get a good pump from?????? and which one should I get the 190 or 255 i think thats what it was

 

DON'T CUT YOUR CAR!!!!

Lift the body so the rear axle drops.. Remove the exhaust, remove the tank, take out fuel pump sending unit.. take unit to radiator shop and have them weld a pickup tube JUST LIKE the pump sits.. add filter sock. Put sending unit back in. You can follow the wires that supply power to pump, on tank side of the sending unit, cut wires from outside side of sending unit, take back to where you have room, buy a inline fuel pump...

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...FP/12-920.html

Thats one that I have.. Bolt that up below the level of the tank. connect fuel lines, leave filter before pump, Now you will never have to drop tank again, you wont' have a hole in your car, and you won't have to cut your car.. I would never cut my car like that.. That's rediculous.. Would you cut out from under your seat to fix a loose heat shield on the cat? Would you cut your k-member to drop your oil pan.. NO.. Fix it right.. you'll be happy you did...

First check your fuel pressure.. if you have less than 50psi I believe you need a new pump.. I might be higher than that.. I believe I had 65psi in my truck that was TBI, She dropped to 52 and car wouldn't start unless you got her running..

 

Thanks

 

ummm, that is too high even for TPI, the camaro TBI needs 10-15 psi, TPI needs 40-45 psi


the newer Vortec trucks need 62 psi

 

ok.... but re locating your fuel pump is something you SHOULD do? considering the prime function (which may work with the original ECM programming...) and the high volume of gas that is needed to keep pressure to your fuel injectors, considering the holley runs between 15 - 45 PSI... im not so sure any "in line" you get is going to be worth putting on your car... unless you want to spend as much as $160 vs. the $80 i spent on my stock pump... not to mention the price of the mounting hardware and conversion materials you will need to separate the pump from the sendind unit.... and the man hours? if your doing this professionally, then you will be spending a FORTUNE on this upgrade, and its not like your ever going to need to do the pump again...... so its new found location is worthless for the future (sh*t happens as we all know, but by natural wear and tear, that pump should outlast your engine...) and if your doing it yourself? do you REALLY want to spend an entire day and possibly more if you run into trouble, fabricating a new fuel delivery system for your car, thats getting you 0 HP?

my idea is not for those too stuck on their cars that putting a "should have been" factory mod in their trunk for easy fuel pump access just seems stupid... or maybe your just pissed cuz you did all that work and dont want to admit to their being a better way? my idea is for those who:

A: Dont have the time to bullcrap with a problem like a fuel pump, and want to get it fixed and out of the way in as little time possible.

B: Dont have a bottomless bank account

and C: Dont mind being creative in their endeavors to fix their car, and in turn save themselves a bundle of time and money, and still have all the factory perks of having your pump where it is.

I used an air grinder.... and was very careful about the approach taken... had a friend help me out too... but all you need is a pair of sheet metal "snips" to do the job. its under your insulation and carpet, and you just silicone the edges to seal it up... i dont hear any noise more now than before, in fact its perfectly quiet back there... the body doesnt flex because of a small service door on the dome of your trunk( ) so what is so sinful about my idea? heres how i look at it..... with an $80 pump, and a 99 cent grinding wheel, i saved serious bucks on them doing the following:

1: dropping my rear exhaust (30 mins)
2: dropping my rear end (2 hours?)
3: dropping my gas tank (30 mins)
4: replacing the pump (30 mins)
5: replacing the gas tank (30 - 45 mins)
6: bolting my rear end back up (2 hours)
7: re welding my exhaust (1 hour)
(note: for pump relocating... add another 7 steps...)

i just:

1: cut the service door (15 mins)
2: replaced the pump (30 mins)
3: sealed the service door (1 minute)

do the math.......

 

Holley Pump = +/- 100.00



Mounting Hardware = Included



Conversion Hardware = 2ft of 3/8 fuel line = 1.50 - 2 hose clamps = .50



Radiator shop charge = 20.00



New STOCK fuel Filter = 5.00




Fixing your car the right way and not listening to a Newb......?








PRICELESS......

 

"there are some things in life worth listening to....

for everything else.... theres Ucantcme57"





newb? i think not.... ive owned a higher number of cars, than the number of years you have been alive..... 95% of which were camaros.... including 2 3rd gens... ive built 4 cars from the ground up, and re-fabricated the rest of them. if you want to spend more money than its worth in labor, and overall price of something that i did with 80 bucks and 30 mins of time, go right ahead, but dont trash my opinions because you feel like a dumbass for not thinking of it before you wasted all that time/money....

speaking of not "altering" a car in a "shade tree" manner.... that detroit locker rear end in your sig line.... if you have a REAL "detroit locker" then you should know that a DL is a shade tree posi unit, that chirps your tires when you make a turn.... because the spider gears are welded together........ THAT is a detroit locker.... and your telling me about cutting a small service door in my trunk that does 0% harm to myself or the car is too "jimmy rig" for you? please....... the sooner you realize your full of sh*t... the sooner you can clear out all that crap between your ears and learn something real...

and no, a holley fuel pump is not $100... its $140.... and yes 40 bucks matters when the overall price of the pump is now only 20 bucks short of being DOUBLE that of the original pump....


to the original poster of this thread, the choice is ultimately yours.... but with my input, and this dipsh*ts rantings, im sure you can judge for yourself what you should do....

in my opinion? if your going to drop your tank.... dont do ANYTHING with relocation of the pump... just replace the pump and call it a day.... but make sure once you mount the gas tank back up you start the car and make sure everything is working right BEFORE you put the rear end and exhaust back on... but in my opinion you shouldnt relocate it... if you have the tank down already, just do it right and call it a day... but if you wanna do that pump in under 45 mins and have future access to it IN ITS STOCK LOCATION!.... you can do what i suggested...

 

oh, and just for fun (and because im bored) im going to break down your sig line with whats on your car.....

that "detroit locker" is not known by me to be in production in 97... and how would you mount that to a 3rd gen anyways? i know my 92 used a totally different rear suspension platform... so i would like to see how that rear end fit on your 86 IROC....

balanced driveshaft? is there a such thing as a NON balanced driveshaft? sorry to burst your bubble, but anything WITH a driveshaft is balanced.... if its not? then its a problem that needs to be fixed... but every driveshaft is factory balanced.... thats what those little square "thingies" are you see on the front and back of your shaft

motown 220 aluminum heads? oh wow... that was your 1st mistake....

and what are retro hydraulic roller lifters? id like to see some pics of those....

considering to my knowledge lingenfelter was the 1st person to make a 427SBC without cracking the water jackets, im sure that motor must have cost you a bundle.... and considering your dial measurements for bore and stroke size, that really doesnt add up to what you say you have in it....

15.6 in the 1/4? good god man, my 92 was an RS with a 305 and a 5 speed.... and i was running 14.8 stock with a k&N filter kit and flowmasters....... your car was a factory slug wasnt it? so where is the time info for what it runs now?!?!?