Front studs w/open nuts
Front studs w/open nuts
Anyone know what studs to run with draglites to run open studs?
Do I need the 2.75" or 3.00" and what knurl size?
I can't really figure it out unless I take a bunch of stuff apart
Do I need the 2.75" or 3.00" and what knurl size?
I can't really figure it out unless I take a bunch of stuff apart
I have 3" screw in studs, and they project about 1/8" out of the open ends of the Weld shank-style lugs. You might be able to get away with 2.75", with the studs ending slightly inside the lugs. That's NHRA legal, as long as there is 1/2" of thread engagement in the hex portion of the lug (engagement in the shank is not counted).
I believe the stock studs use a 0.509" knurl. Are your axles set up for thread-in or press-in?
I believe the stock studs use a 0.509" knurl. Are your axles set up for thread-in or press-in?
I have 3" screw in studs, and they project about 1/8" out of the open ends of the Weld shank-style lugs. You might be able to get away with 2.75", with the studs ending slightly inside the lugs. That's NHRA legal, as long as there is 1/2" of thread engagement in the hex portion of the lug (engagement in the shank is not counted).
I believe the stock studs use a 0.509" knurl. Are your axles set up for thread-in or press-in?
I believe the stock studs use a 0.509" knurl. Are your axles set up for thread-in or press-in?
With stock style brakes and hubs. Right now I have the 12mm lug nuts up front with closed ends...and I have an uneasy feeling about them, I would rather see the studd coming thru
I didn't read that too carefully - didn't realize that you put the "front" in the topic.
I have some 2.67" knurled 12mm studs in the front. I got them from Lingenfelter, but I think GM Performance Parts sells the same thing for less. The big problem is they have about 0.60" of unthreaded length on the end, supposedly to help you slide the wheels on. That extension sticks out of the end of the Weld stud. and, the 2.67" length leaves the end of the threaded portion inside the stud, just barely meeting the NHRA rules. I would use a 2.75" stud in the front if you want to be "just" legal, and 3.00" if you want them sticking out of the stud. Knurl is still 0.509".
One question though..... are you running a spacer in the front. I have a 5/16" spacer, so that would mean that you could get away with 0.31" less length on the studs if you don't run a spacer.

A bit of a problem when I bolt the street wheels on, though.....
I have some 2.67" knurled 12mm studs in the front. I got them from Lingenfelter, but I think GM Performance Parts sells the same thing for less. The big problem is they have about 0.60" of unthreaded length on the end, supposedly to help you slide the wheels on. That extension sticks out of the end of the Weld stud. and, the 2.67" length leaves the end of the threaded portion inside the stud, just barely meeting the NHRA rules. I would use a 2.75" stud in the front if you want to be "just" legal, and 3.00" if you want them sticking out of the stud. Knurl is still 0.509".
One question though..... are you running a spacer in the front. I have a 5/16" spacer, so that would mean that you could get away with 0.31" less length on the studs if you don't run a spacer.

A bit of a problem when I bolt the street wheels on, though.....
Last edited by Injuneer; Jul 6, 2007 at 11:24 PM.
I do have a 1/8" spacer......I grinded everywhere I could and that the thinnest I could get away with.
I may look into aftermarket brakes......I want the car certified next year and need the spacers gone
I may look into aftermarket brakes......I want the car certified next year and need the spacers gone
NHRA allows spacers. But they need to be hub-centric or lug-centric. They can not be the cheapie spacers with the oversize holes that flop around and don't self-center. Skulte will make them for you.
Ref: General Regulations, 5:2
Ref: General Regulations, 5:2
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