Best Oil Change
03-19-2003, 07:42 PM
#1
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Best Oil Change
Where is the best place to get your oil changed? Jiffy Lube? Valvoline instant oil change? Or a dealorship? I have gone to valvoline most of the time, and that costs me about $40-45 a change. I have gone to jiffy lube once and it cost around $25 I think, I can't rememeber but it was alot cheaper, so why is Valvoline more expensive? Thanks!
Jason
Jason
03-19-2003, 07:45 PM
#2
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My driveway.
Cost about 8 bucks.
Dispose the oil at AutoZone or O'Reiley's Free Of Charge
...don't just dump it.
Cost about 8 bucks.
Dispose the oil at AutoZone or O'Reiley's Free Of Charge
...don't just dump it.
03-19-2003, 07:51 PM
#3
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Location: No Va.
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Just curious, you didn't mention changing your own oil as an option. Is this something you don't want to do? Or feel you can't do? I usually change my own oil on all of my vechicles (except my wife's car, she likes the dealer). Just curious.
03-19-2003, 08:14 PM
#4
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Even the initial cost to change your own oil is relatively cheap. I believe a set of (idestuctible) Rhino Ramps are about $19.95. A 15 quart oil drain pan is about $5.99. And to top it off, if you want to get fancy and less mess, go with a Fram Sure Drain kit. That's another 5 to 8 bucks.
Total for less than one oil change at a service shop you can afford everything you need to do your own. And each time after that is only about 8 to 10 dollars.
So about 2 or 3 times, you're already saving money.
Don't forget a roll of Scott's Shop Towels. There like 1.99 for the 100-roll.
Total for less than one oil change at a service shop you can afford everything you need to do your own. And each time after that is only about 8 to 10 dollars.
So about 2 or 3 times, you're already saving money.
Don't forget a roll of Scott's Shop Towels. There like 1.99 for the 100-roll.
03-20-2003, 12:32 AM
#5
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Location: I'm in the Bay, Trick
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I change my own oil...comfort of knowing it is done right and saves $$$ too. The initial investment shouldn't be more than $40 and that is being generous. Figure:
$10 - jack stands
$2 - 7 quart oil pan
$3 - Oil Funnel
$20 - Ramps or garage jack
$5 - Oil Filter remover
That is the initial cost. Figure in $15-20 for oil and filter, higher or lower depending on brand and quality of the two you go with.
If you are unsure of how to do it, pick up a copy of Haynes or Chilton repair manual. If you don't feel like buying it, you can try your local library or bum around at a book store and read it.
I personally would wait on the Sure Drain...I'm watching it closely to see if people who use it develop any problems with leakage. I also don't like the oil change monkeys getting in my car afterwards and revving it.
$10 - jack stands
$2 - 7 quart oil pan
$3 - Oil Funnel
$20 - Ramps or garage jack
$5 - Oil Filter remover
That is the initial cost. Figure in $15-20 for oil and filter, higher or lower depending on brand and quality of the two you go with.
If you are unsure of how to do it, pick up a copy of Haynes or Chilton repair manual. If you don't feel like buying it, you can try your local library or bum around at a book store and read it.
I personally would wait on the Sure Drain...I'm watching it closely to see if people who use it develop any problems with leakage. I also don't like the oil change monkeys getting in my car afterwards and revving it.
03-20-2003, 12:42 AM
#6
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Location: I'm in the Bay, Trick
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Just read the original post...$45?!?!?! 
I seriously hope that is for synthetic and even then that is expensive for VALVOLINE. Only $45 oil change I would pay for would be for RedLine with a K&N oil filter.
If I remember correctly, JiffyLube was using QuakerState oil. Valvoline would use, well...Valvoline. Figure they also were using cheap Fram-esque filters as well. So for 5 quarts ($1 quart) and a $3-4 filter, you paid double the material cost. For labor? HA...do it yourself. If you use conventional oil, stick with Pennzoil or Chevron...I have the #s on them if you are interested.
I seriously hope that is for synthetic and even then that is expensive for VALVOLINE. Only $45 oil change I would pay for would be for RedLine with a K&N oil filter.
If I remember correctly, JiffyLube was using QuakerState oil. Valvoline would use, well...Valvoline. Figure they also were using cheap Fram-esque filters as well. So for 5 quarts ($1 quart) and a $3-4 filter, you paid double the material cost. For labor? HA...do it yourself. If you use conventional oil, stick with Pennzoil or Chevron...I have the #s on them if you are interested.
03-20-2003, 06:50 PM
#7
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Originally posted by ImportKILLER
$10 - jack stands
$2 - 7 quart oil pan
$3 - Oil Funnel
$20 - Ramps or garage jack
$5 - Oil Filter remover
I personally would wait on the Sure Drain...I'm watching it closely to see if people who use it develop any problems with leakage. I also don't like the oil change monkeys getting in my car afterwards and revving it.
$10 - jack stands
$2 - 7 quart oil pan
$3 - Oil Funnel
$20 - Ramps or garage jack
$5 - Oil Filter remover
I personally would wait on the Sure Drain...I'm watching it closely to see if people who use it develop any problems with leakage. I also don't like the oil change monkeys getting in my car afterwards and revving it.
But a small oil pan, and funnel. Should be all your need. I have an oil filter wrench, but on the 3.8L because of its position, I've never had a problem getting it off my hand, and I crank down on mine. But I use Fram Sure Grip filters.
As for the sure drain, I'll keep you abreast of how mine is doing. I've had it installed for about 3,000 miles now. No drips. Actually, once the unit is in, it comes with a block off cap, not for drips, but to keep road grime out. It's pretty nice. And don't let the exhausts' Y-pipe defeat you, the sure drain will go in, just gotta work it a little bit. (Once in, you never need mess with it again)
Since all oil is about the same, with the exception to high performance oils (not bought off the shelf) I just use Pennzoil, which is a subsidary of Quaker State.
Wal-mart sells a 5-quart oil jug for about 6 bucks. And I believe it comes out to be about 1.08 per quart - still cheaper than running cheap coastal or AutoZone brand. And its in a one-time handy-dandy jug with a cool little "Next Oil Change" sticker...FREE
I also change at 5,000 miles to keep costs down. You can go up to 7,000 miles safely, but I figure with running the engine hard and racing I'll split it between 3,000 and 7,000 = 5,000.
I'm on my 25th oil change
03-20-2003, 07:31 PM
#8
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 1,042
Originally posted by Bliggida
My driveway.
Cost about 8 bucks.
My driveway.
Cost about 8 bucks.
I pay around $30 to do it myself: 5 qts of Mobil 1 5W-30 @ 4.87/qt, then $5 for the AC Delco oil filter. I could pay $5 more if I bought the K&N, total to $35.
Then again, my next oil change will be cheap!....Grandpa bought me a case of Mobil 1 for Christmas, and I had a $4.20 credit at a local speed shop.
Next oil change will cost me $0.80
03-20-2003, 07:41 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: SAY Town
Posts: 412
4.87 a quart. Highway robbery.
I pay about 1.25 to 1.85 on average - for Pennzoil.
Redline racing oil is 7.95 a quart!!!
Filter Prices
From AutoZone...
STP S3387A $2.99
BOSCH 3331 $5.49
MOBIL M1-101 $11.99
FRAM PH3387A $3.29
AC-DELCO PF47 $2.99
K&N HP-1001 $12.99
Oil Drain Plug:
Fram - Sure Drain PN: SD4 $12.99
I pay about 1.25 to 1.85 on average - for Pennzoil.
Redline racing oil is 7.95 a quart!!!
Filter Prices
From AutoZone...
STP S3387A $2.99
BOSCH 3331 $5.49
MOBIL M1-101 $11.99
FRAM PH3387A $3.29
AC-DELCO PF47 $2.99
K&N HP-1001 $12.99
Oil Drain Plug:
Fram - Sure Drain PN: SD4 $12.99
03-20-2003, 08:42 PM
#10
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: I'm in the Bay, Trick
Posts: 1,150
$4.87 is about average for Mobil 1 here...I believe it might be a few cents off, give or take. I stopped using it back when it was TriSyn, but now its the new SuperSyn so I might take a look into it. So far I've heard that SuperSyn is far superior to the older SJ TriSyn.
Yup, I made a mistake. If you use ramps, no need for jackstands. I don't use a ramp so I use a jack and jackstands. I got my jackstands for around $10 at Rice...errr, PepBoys that work fine. Weight rating is more than the car plus I use a garage jack too so. I tried to look into Rhino Ramps but they were $50 here!
Actually you'd be surprised how different oils are. Some have different base stocks, additive packages and some shear down more than others. Only real way to know is through oil analysis. I spend most of my wandering 'net time on oil sites. It's interesting to see an oil like Pennzoil ($2) produce better #'s than a synthetic like Syntech ($4).
If you knew what I knew about Fram, you'd stay away from them. High availability doesn't nec. mean high quality. I'll email you a website that you can read up on them about. I like cheap filters too...Walmart Supertech filters are probably the best value you'll find. Produced by the same company that manufactures the Mobil 1 filters (Champion). For the price, Mobil 1s aren't too hot. I used to use them too...too pricey, too restrictive. A 10-15 micron filter with conventional oil = tons of sludge catching.
OK...I typed too much. Back to the topic...
Change your own oil! You'll save $$$.
Yup, I made a mistake. If you use ramps, no need for jackstands. I don't use a ramp so I use a jack and jackstands. I got my jackstands for around $10 at Rice...errr, PepBoys that work fine. Weight rating is more than the car plus I use a garage jack too so. I tried to look into Rhino Ramps but they were $50 here!
Actually you'd be surprised how different oils are. Some have different base stocks, additive packages and some shear down more than others. Only real way to know is through oil analysis. I spend most of my wandering 'net time on oil sites. It's interesting to see an oil like Pennzoil ($2) produce better #'s than a synthetic like Syntech ($4).
If you knew what I knew about Fram, you'd stay away from them. High availability doesn't nec. mean high quality. I'll email you a website that you can read up on them about. I like cheap filters too...Walmart Supertech filters are probably the best value you'll find. Produced by the same company that manufactures the Mobil 1 filters (Champion). For the price, Mobil 1s aren't too hot. I used to use them too...too pricey, too restrictive. A 10-15 micron filter with conventional oil = tons of sludge catching.
OK...I typed too much. Back to the topic...
Change your own oil! You'll save $$$.
Last edited by ImportKILLER; 03-20-2003 at 08:47 PM.
03-20-2003, 08:58 PM
#11
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Why do you think Fram shouldn't be used.
03-20-2003, 09:31 PM
#12
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Location: I'm in the Bay, Trick
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Fram uses cardboard ends instead of steel...which isn't good.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=6;t=000489
Cut open a Fram and compare it to just about any other filter out there and I'll bet that will change your mind alone.
Let us know how the Sure Drain turns out...seems interesting.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=6;t=000489
Cut open a Fram and compare it to just about any other filter out there and I'll bet that will change your mind alone.
Let us know how the Sure Drain turns out...seems interesting.
03-20-2003, 09:51 PM
#13
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Posts: 412
A common misunderstanding among our customers concerns the end disks in the oil filter. These disks hold the glue which keeps the pleated media formed into a rigid circular tube. The glue-to-media interface is also one of the sealing surfaces keeping dirty and filtered oil from mixing. One common myth is that only metal end disks can adequately seal and have enough strength in the hot oil environment. For this reason, Fram filters are criticized for having cardboard end disks. The issue is, the material doing the sealing is the adhesive, regardless of the material of the end disk. What matters is the strength of the adhesive, its proper curing, the thoroughness with which it can be applied to the disk, and its adhesion to the disk. By using cardboard end disks, Fram filter engineers are able to specify adhesives with excellent strength and sealing properties, and strong adhesion to the disk (intuitively, it is easy to make a strong glue bond with cardboard). Moreover, just as paper media itself is able to withstand the hot oil environment, so too is the end disk designed of fibers engineered to be strong and inert in hot oil. The thickness and strength of the adhesive also stiffens the end disk considerably.
If you read, cardboard is not the issue, it's the glue. and they've never leaked on me, or blown off.
03-20-2003, 11:13 PM
#14
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Location: I'm in the Bay, Trick
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Eh...of course thats what Fram says. Can't expect them to come out and say "Well...we use cardboard since its more cost effective".
After reading so many stories about Fram on websites and message boards plus seeing the build quality first hand compared to other brands...I'd rather spend the extra $$$ on a better quality filter. Or even less $$$ on a Supertech. But to each his own...
Glad to hear you haven't had any problems. Have you used Pennzoil all 125,000 miles? I'd be interested to see the engine internals with Pennzoil...probably looks pretty good.
After reading so many stories about Fram on websites and message boards plus seeing the build quality first hand compared to other brands...I'd rather spend the extra $$$ on a better quality filter. Or even less $$$ on a Supertech. But to each his own...
Glad to hear you haven't had any problems. Have you used Pennzoil all 125,000 miles? I'd be interested to see the engine internals with Pennzoil...probably looks pretty good.
03-20-2003, 11:16 PM
#15
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 37
Well Thanks for all the imput, i have a few more questions. Right now I understand I should buy 5 quarts of oil. So what type do I buy, right now i have regular oil, what about synthetic, should I switch, what is the advantage/disadvantage of each? What do the differents weights mean, like the 5W-30 or 10W-50? Which one would work on my 3.8L camaro? So there is a screw you unscrew and the oil leaks out into a bucket, then you take off the filter and change it, then you put the screw back on and fill up the tank with new oil, is that right?
What about anti-freez? I think some leaked when I did my spark plugs, the green fluid. Should I just pour some more into the tank. I couldent have lost but a cup of it so will it hurt anything?
Thanks again guys! Your a lifesaver.
Jason
What about anti-freez? I think some leaked when I did my spark plugs, the green fluid. Should I just pour some more into the tank. I couldent have lost but a cup of it so will it hurt anything?
Thanks again guys! Your a lifesaver.
Jason