Well lets make this straight,the title is not for bashing but to bring attention and help

I got a spohn adj TA that mount on the tunnel brace and the brace is made for LT.I got it for 2 years now.I ve tried a lot of angle but this damn thing makes a regular howling noise when i reach 65mph and over.

It also makes a lot of vibration when im around 75mph the feeling is totally unbearable.The shifter shake a lot.I stop making higway trip since then(2 YEARS DAMNIT )

I ve bought a new spohn HD driveshaft,new poly tranny mount,also a stock one to.I ve check every mount,any slack and verify the torque of the bolts of the TA.

Now here is the funny thing.My friend(2002 SS) just bought the same one and you know what????It does the exact same stupid thing...

I ve talk to Steve at Spohn and Ryan at Umi and they both of them recommend to put the TA to 0degree when street driven.

So we took both of car TA and adjust the pinion angle to 0.Mine was 86 on the DS and 86 on the TA so my angle is dead on 0.

My buddy got 88 on his DS and 88 on his TA so again dead on 0.

We ve test them and both of the car got the same problem.It makes this regular noise and vibration at 60mph and vibrate heavily and from the shifter at around 75mph.


So what do i do with this.Is there something that i dont know.I did not put 15k on my car to drive it at 30mph in city and no drag or road circuit race.

When my car was 100% stock,the first mod i put on it was this TA and the noise and the vibration began at this exact moment,so the TA is the main problem in my case.

I ve used this method(SPOHN):
"
There are two angles to deal with:

1) Driveshaft angle
2) Pinion angle

You subtract pinion angle from driveshaft angle to get TRUE pinion angle

Here's how you do it:

First, had you measured your stock drive shaft angle and pinion angle before you removed your stock torque arm, you would have calculated a 0 deg. TRUE pinion angle. This is how all cars come from the factory, no suspension bind.

Using an angle finder place it on the driveshaft (a flat smooth spot) and record the angle indicated.

Next, place the angle finder on the flat surface where the torque arm mounts to the rear end (this surface is parallel with the pinion shaft) and record the angle indicated.

Subtract the pinion angle from the driveshaft angle. The result is "TRUE Pinion Angle".
In order to apply preload you need negative TRUE pinion angle. Adjust the torque arm so that the front of the pinion goes down; continue to check each angle until the pinion angle is more degrees down than the driveshaft angle.

We recommend –1 degrees on a mildly modified daily driven car. For high horsepower applications we have gotten the best results with –2 to –3 degrees. There is no reason to run more negative then that, it will actually hurt your performance because it will induce driveline bind."

 

The vibration will NOT be caused by the TA; it will only transmit it more because it mounts stiffer than the stocker in the rubber mount.

the 75+ vibration sounds like a driveshaft issue; even with an aftermarket one, have it checked for balance (high-speed balance not low-speed like some shops do)

Could also be an issue with the rear end; how the backlash? How much slop is in the pinion?

Could be an alignment issue with the rear axle as well; alignment shop, 4-wheel alignment. (Axle could be tweaked somehow)

I'm just throwing ideas out there. I'm running the BMR TA (tranny mounted though); Denny's NR shaft, and a Strange 12 Bolt and mine's smooth as glass (well as best can be with a full rod-end suspension)

 

I'm not doubting you have a problem, but I find it hard to believe it's the TA, if you have it set correctly, 0 to -1 degrees. I once set the angle wrong the first time I tried setting it. Shook the car like crazy. But once set correctly everything was fine besides the occasional thump that is to be expected when first hitting the gas.

 

Hmm the noise and vibe was not there when the car was all stock.Then just after the TA the noise and vibe came in.I then change the rear end for a brand new strange 12 bolts and a new DS(spohn HD).Nothing changed.The axle are perfect.

My friend(483whp sae corrected) got a brand new 9 " with a brand new DS.He was running a tranny mount aftermarket type TA and there was no noise.He thought that the sphon adj could help his launch(60feet).But just like magic he got the same problem has mine

You are running what everyone is calling "THE SOLUTION" a lot of people including Ryan from UMI suggest a adj full lenght TA(tranny mount) but with a tranny crossmember that got the TA mount.Just like the Bmr that you got.

 

The problem is drive shaft u-joint angle mismatch, the angle on the front joint does not match the angle on the rear u-joint so you get vibes because there is no cancellation.

The torque arm is not the problem, but you can do this as a last resort.
1. Put the car up on four jack stands.
2. Completely reinstall the STOCK track arm.
3. Point a rear u-joint cup straight down towards the floor.
4. Measure the distance from the cup to the floor and record this number.
5. Reinstall the Spohn and adjust to match the measurement from the stock track arm.

I did this with my used Spohn without the aid of an angle finder and I have zero driveline vibes.

 

Well if that would be that easy

But unfortunetly i destroy my stock TA mount on the tranny so i couldnt put it back now...

 

Some people told me to forget the damn DS ngle and to take the DS off.Take the angle from the output shaft of the tranny and then then pinion.Make it even then take 2 because it will rotate about 2 degree under load.

Example:
Tranny output shaft = 4.5degree down
you would need
Pinion = 4.5degree up

But you would take 2 degree down to match the rotation under load so that would give : 2.5degree up

Dos thismake sens???

 

Did you make a reference mark on the driveshaft and the yoke before removing them? If not, take the driveshaft loose from the rearend and rotate it 180 degrees. I am not sure why but I have heard of that causing vibrations. It would be worth a try. Good luck

 

im runnin the spohn trq arm wit a th350 i had a clunk on launch or hard susp hits but no whineor anything else negative id check the rear pull driveshaft and spin yoke see if binding or play is evedent

 

The torque arm can NOT make a howling noise. If any torque arm is not set up correctly, the rear and u-joints can make a howling noise, and the TA will transmit that noise into the interior of the car. But a TA can't make noise on its own.

I've run a Spohn TA/Strange 12-bolt combo for 7 years and never had a problem. All I ever did was set the pinion at -2deg, referenced to the driveshaft. Didn't matter whether it was with the T56, the TH400 or the TH400+Gear Vendor.... worked fine every time. Buddy of mine ran one at over 1,350HP on his 383ci blown 97 SS, and never had a problem with noise or vibration, and the car was making low 8-second passes at over 160mph.

Sounds to me like incorrect installation is the cause, not the torque arm itself.

 

Also consider the differences between how the torque arms mount a factory or factory type replacement which mounts to the trans and not the body won't transmit as much NVH as one mounted to the body of the car such as the Spohn which I just got for my car, hence way more road noise and vibration will be transmitted into the car. That's also my reason for choosing the SLP weld in sfcs as opposed to the tubular 2 pt that many others use. The SLP sfcs,because they weld to the tunnel brace they will reinforce the area where the Spohn ta mounts. In my first SS I had a Global West traclink and I don't imagine the Spohn can be any different then that.

 

mine is at -2 with regards to the driveshaft angle and I dont have any problems. I do get the little clunk when accelerating hard and shifting fast, but there will be a little slop everywhere and it all adds up in the driveline...