Hey all,

I'm really interested in getting some sub frame connectorsand maybe a 4 or 6 point cage (probably a 6-point for scca events)...

What i want to know is, what do you guys think about the bolt on subframe connectors over the weld-in ones? I like the idea that the bolt in ones come painted, can be removed easily (if they ever had to be for some reason), and could be installed really easily by myself in the drive way.

Welding 'em in and then painting 'em wouldnt be a big p.i.t.a. necasarily, but why would you choose these over the bolt ons?

do weld in's perform much better than bolt ins? I figure if you use ultra hard bolts that wont flex, then there shouldn't be much of a difference.

Same goes for the cage. I DO NOT want to weld in a cage, because to remove it would be too big a pita if I ever had to remove it. The bolt in ones look pretty straight forward, but do they offer the same level of performance and protection that a weld in would?

lemme know what you guys think and what your using,

thanks in advance, chris

 

I'd go with the black BMR weld-in SFCs. That's what I have. They have a slot at the end of each one that you fit over the lower control arm and put the bolt in there to secure it, and weld the rest of it. I really like these because they're extremely inconspicuous.

In all honesty though, despite what some may say, you will not notice a blow-you-away difference after they're installed and they didn't do anything for me at the track, but it's nice to know they're there to keep the car's structural integrity.

 

I doubt that bolting them on provides nearly as much stiffening as welding. On my car, a 'vert, they made a huge difference, as did the 6-point.

Rich

 

Its not a matter of stronger bolts for the bolt-in SFC's. The bolts tears the thin metal of the subframes and open up the holes, reducing the efficiency of the SFC's. Welding eliminates that problem.

Bolt-in roll bars (what you are describing is a roll "bar", not a "cage") are legal in NHRA on a unibody vehicle, and require that you sandwich the floor with upper and lower 6" square plates, with 4 bolts per plate. Check the SCCA regulations to see what they require or will accept.

Moving to "Suspension, Chassis and Brakes"......

 

What type of SCCA events? If it's autox... read the rules and follow them to a T. Because they are very specific.

3 point SFCs will put you into C-Prepared class (those are the *****-out race-dedicated cars...)

Also, read up some... SFCs will do you no good if you invest in good shocks and new bushings for the entire suspension. Actual chassis flex is hardly the problem when it comes to the 4th gen's shortcomings.

I hate to link to other forums, but this is a very helpful thread and I think the "other" forum is more technically knowledgable.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398983

 

I disagree that chassis flex is not a problem. I installed some weld in SLP subframe connectors i got on ebay about 2 weeks ago. I bolted them in temporarily till i have time to weld them. I havent had time to drive the car much because i am on a business trip but i noticed an immediate difference. My doors close much easier, no more slamming. In addition when i was taking the car down off the stands I removed the first stand and the car stayed perfectly level on the other 3 stands. From a driving standpoint the car feels much more solid.

 

Read the thread.

You need GOOD shocks

 

I haven't had a problem with my bolt-on subs. Still nice and stiff. As long as you keep the bolts tight.

I've never heard of the holes getting bigger in bolt-on subframes. I guess if you don't tighten them down maybe.