aaron_depue

I just replaced my front and rear brake lines with new stainless steel lines (hard and soft). My front calipers have been replaced as well with Kore 3 Corvette c5 conversion units.

Whats the most effective way to bleed a dry system in a 2 car garage? I have access to a vacuum pump style bleeding tool...

How hard is it to get ALL the air out 1st attempt?

shoebox

RR, LR, RF, LF with your Mityvac or whatever you have. Keep the master cylinder full as you go. Don't press on the brake pedal until you are done with all 4 wheels. It will take a lot of fluid for a dry system. Start with the procedure above and see what you have when done. It may be all you need to do.

pgerst

Couple other ideas/tips:

1) Remove the fuse for the brake control unit or do not, repeat not, turn on your ignition. If you power up the abs system, you can get the abs pistons out of sequence and will need a two-way reader (GM Tech 1 or 2) to re-home them.

2) Get two short pieces of pipe and fittings for the master cylinder and loop them back into the reservoir. Fill with fluid and use the pedal slowly (fast and brake fluid goes everywhere) until you get the m/c bled. Then hook up your pipes to the abs unit

3) If you have abs, there are two bleed screws on the abs that you need to do first before the wheels.

4) Motive makes a $60 dollar power bleeder that pressurizes the system and is way easier than the mity-vac.

5) Since you have upgraded, go with Dot 4 fluid as has higher temp ratings (not Dot 5 as that is silicone based). Motul, Amsoil, or Ate make Dot 4 fluids for racing use; Ate makes a racing blue fluid that is tinted so very easy to see bubbles, even tiny ones, in the bleed hose.

6) I do each bleed point until I get a steady stream and no bubbles, then do the circuit again, and again, until I can do one pass with no bubbles in each line. (I doubt you will get it bled on the first pass.)