OK so all this started after i did a motor swap.
When i hit the brake pedal it is very soft. when going from park to drive/rev when it shifts the car lurks forward a few inches because the brakes are not holding enuf. If i am at a red light the pedal has to be just about to the floor for me to stay still. If i am going around 30mph and slam on the brakes as hard as i can the pedal will be at the floor and the car will stop kinda quick but their is no way it would lock up the tires (no ABS so thats not why it doesnt lock up)
I do notice a small increase in braking if i rev the motor up before aplying the brakes, but still no wear near what it should be

What i have changed so far
pads, rotors, calipers and the master cyl...

I do not have any leaks, the only thing left i think of doing is the ABS control thingy and then all the brake lines.

Does anyone have any other sugestions on what might be the problem befor i spen another stack of cash on this?

 

If your running that cc306 like your profile says you may need to install a vaccum canister to get your vaccum back up and your brakes up to par. Big cams take some to make some.


I'm not sure if you have an aBS module or not... and I don't know which if the Brake sensor is in the Module ofr the computer... but at any time your having difficulty braking does the amber brake light come on? If you get in the car and push the pedal to the floor as hard as you can..does the brake light come on at all?

 

the ABS light is always on because i am missing the wire harness that goes to the rear. I know my vacum may be a lil low but even with the rpm's high (so i am making more vacum) the brakes still suck.

and btw i do have the ABS module i plan on switching that next.

 

have you bled the brakes?

 

yes, how did you pull the motor? top or bottom?

 

yes i bleed them, i guess the right way. RR FL RL FR. I pulled the motor from the bottom.

If i some how pinched a line would it affect all the brakes? (i didnt think so so that is why i am saving replacing all the brake lines for last.)

 

bleed them again in the correct order, RR, LR, RF, LF

it definately sounds like air in there

 

OK i will try again, but if their is air, no matter how i bleed the lines i would think i had gotten it all out. I think i have bleed them about 10 times.

what about the blled valves on the ABS unit, where do those come into the bleeding process

 

Mine did this with a hotcam, Stock converters and high Idle dont like each other

You raised the Idle right?
Still running a stock converter?

 

I am not sure you making more vaccum on high RPM. Open throttle body....

 

Did you also bleed the ABS unit?

 

[QUOTE=
Did you also bleed the ABS unit?[/QUOTE]




[QUOTE=
what about the blled valves on the ABS unit, where do those come into the bleeding process[/QUOTE]

nope how do i bleed the abs unit

 

There are two bleeder valves on the ABS motor. You need to do those BEFORE you do the caliper bleeds. You may have a problem. My manual indicates if you have an ABS code, you need to clear the code and "home" the ABS motors using a Tech scan tool. Might be worth a try without homing the motors, to see if it helps.

 

i am pretty sure i can home the motors by smashing down the brakes (makes sure it has even presure)