good local mechanics
Originally posted by anasazi
I think I could probably get the g/f to come and help me out, she was a huge help when I fixed my intake manifold leak.
I think I could probably get the g/f to come and help me out, she was a huge help when I fixed my intake manifold leak.
holly hell I have only had mine do a hold something for abotu 2 min. and hse hated it.
Damn and I thought my girlfriend was perfect, I figured no girlfreind would help work on a car.
the motorvac didn't do much 
looks like its opti time
tyler (Mr. T's Z) says I have a miss... which would explain the numbers we got last weekend
but on the plus side, all this traveling on the highway gave me 15.3mpg ... the highest in months!
is there any way to find which cylender is misfiring in an OBD1 car? would the spark plugs indicate a miss?

looks like its opti time
tyler (Mr. T's Z) says I have a miss... which would explain the numbers we got last weekend
but on the plus side, all this traveling on the highway gave me 15.3mpg ... the highest in months!
is there any way to find which cylender is misfiring in an OBD1 car? would the spark plugs indicate a miss?
If you have a timimg light you could hook it up to each plug wire and see if the light blinks for each one. At least that way you'd know if there was spark in the wires. If you want to be absolutely sure, you can get a spark tester gadget but you have to remove your plug wires and plug one into the gadget one at a time, clip it onto a grounded part of the engine and turn it over, see if there is spark. Repeat 7 times... Other than that, an autotap type device should be able to give more info without ripping stuff apart needlessly.
The timing light is the easiest. Let me know if you need to borrow one.
The timing light is the easiest. Let me know if you need to borrow one.
hey anasazi I had a tool used for checking sparkplugwires.
I think I still have it, its sort of like a timeing light, you ground one end and put the other end over a wire, and you can see if the wire is fireing.
Its gonna be a little bit of a search looking for it I probalbe haven't used it in 2-3 years.
15.3 mpg?
how are the o2s?
I think I still have it, its sort of like a timeing light, you ground one end and put the other end over a wire, and you can see if the wire is fireing.
Its gonna be a little bit of a search looking for it I probalbe haven't used it in 2-3 years.
15.3 mpg?
how are the o2s?
the motorvac plugs into your fuel rail and your engine runs off the fuel it provides. tyler showed me the goop soap stuff you mix in with some fuel and put it into the machine, and its pretty much an automated process, cleans everything from the pistons up.
i think it took about an hour... but even if that wasn't enough to clean it out (like vinci's 4 hr process), it didn't make any difference in how the car is acting that i can tell. i'm sure it'll help down the road because there will be less buildup, but for this particiular problem i havn't noticed a change
mustangeater, if you could find that tool and help me out with using it that'd be great, cause i wouldn't be sure how to do it. could we do it just right out here in the parking lot?
i was reading some of the threads specifically on this problem in the LT1 Tech section and it was suggested I move my coil / ignition module to a cooler place (off of the head), and I should try messing with my MAP sensor. tonight I might run around with the MAP sensor disconnected and see if anything changes. this will also be a good chance to check out if i have fireworks under the hood but i checked about a week ago and didn't see any
if you can't find that gizmo, I can try that timing light and see if i can spot my miss.
i think it took about an hour... but even if that wasn't enough to clean it out (like vinci's 4 hr process), it didn't make any difference in how the car is acting that i can tell. i'm sure it'll help down the road because there will be less buildup, but for this particiular problem i havn't noticed a change

mustangeater, if you could find that tool and help me out with using it that'd be great, cause i wouldn't be sure how to do it. could we do it just right out here in the parking lot?
i was reading some of the threads specifically on this problem in the LT1 Tech section and it was suggested I move my coil / ignition module to a cooler place (off of the head), and I should try messing with my MAP sensor. tonight I might run around with the MAP sensor disconnected and see if anything changes. this will also be a good chance to check out if i have fireworks under the hood but i checked about a week ago and didn't see any

if you can't find that gizmo, I can try that timing light and see if i can spot my miss.
If your BLMs are 109-110 then you're not running rich. The PCM will be able to control your mixture to stoich down to BLMs of 108. If your PCM maxes out at BLMs of 108, then you're most likely running rich but you really can't tell by how much.
Rob
95Z28
Rob
95Z28
Originally posted by ryaskovic
If your BLMs are 109-110 then you're not running rich. The PCM will be able to control your mixture to stoich down to BLMs of 108. If your PCM maxes out at BLMs of 108, then you're most likely running rich but you really can't tell by how much.
Rob
95Z28
If your BLMs are 109-110 then you're not running rich. The PCM will be able to control your mixture to stoich down to BLMs of 108. If your PCM maxes out at BLMs of 108, then you're most likely running rich but you really can't tell by how much.
Rob
95Z28
I'm focusing on part throttle operation here:
The BLM is the PCMs fuel correction for maintaining 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio. With stock PCM settings the BLMs can range from 108-160, with 128 as the midpoint. At 128, the PCM does not need to tweak the fuel delivery. The AFR is stoich without any additional tweaks from the PCM. If the engine runs rich, as indicated by the O2 sensors, the PCM will CORRECT this condition by removing fuel (BLMs < 128) to keep the 14.7:1 AFR. So, the BLM being less than 128 does not mean you're running rich.....it would mean that if the PCM wasn't there to correct for it....but since the PCM is there, it'll tweak the fuel delivery to maintain 14.7:1.
IF you reach the limit of the PCM's control (108 or 160), THEN you'd be running rich or lean since the PCM cannot control beyond those limits.
Does this make sense?
Rob
95Z28
The BLM is the PCMs fuel correction for maintaining 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio. With stock PCM settings the BLMs can range from 108-160, with 128 as the midpoint. At 128, the PCM does not need to tweak the fuel delivery. The AFR is stoich without any additional tweaks from the PCM. If the engine runs rich, as indicated by the O2 sensors, the PCM will CORRECT this condition by removing fuel (BLMs < 128) to keep the 14.7:1 AFR. So, the BLM being less than 128 does not mean you're running rich.....it would mean that if the PCM wasn't there to correct for it....but since the PCM is there, it'll tweak the fuel delivery to maintain 14.7:1.
IF you reach the limit of the PCM's control (108 or 160), THEN you'd be running rich or lean since the PCM cannot control beyond those limits.
Does this make sense?
Rob
95Z28
Hey All,
The GM injectors are pretty much self cleaning and if they have any problem they usually need to be replaced. The Motorvac works great to clean out the internal engine like the intake, valves and pistons for sure.
As far as finding a miss, I use a Tech2, the same equipment you find at a GM dealer. This has a cylinder balance test and misfire info and can generally locate which cylinder is the problem. It also shows high and low resolution signals of the opti to see if there is a problem there.
Things are crazy busy right now at the shop as we have 14 cars or so there with 3 people trying to knock em out. We could at least do a diagnostic check to see what you got. Opti diagnosis is not fool proff, but it sounds like all that is left anyway or an injector. You can also do an ohm test on the injectors to see if they are all the same.
Hope this helps.
Mike
The GM injectors are pretty much self cleaning and if they have any problem they usually need to be replaced. The Motorvac works great to clean out the internal engine like the intake, valves and pistons for sure.
As far as finding a miss, I use a Tech2, the same equipment you find at a GM dealer. This has a cylinder balance test and misfire info and can generally locate which cylinder is the problem. It also shows high and low resolution signals of the opti to see if there is a problem there.
Things are crazy busy right now at the shop as we have 14 cars or so there with 3 people trying to knock em out. We could at least do a diagnostic check to see what you got. Opti diagnosis is not fool proff, but it sounds like all that is left anyway or an injector. You can also do an ohm test on the injectors to see if they are all the same.
Hope this helps.
Mike
optispark this weekend
called Mike, probably can't get over there till next wednesday ... so i'll go ahead and do the optispark this weekend, hopefully this will clear it up.
if not, i'll head over to Norris and plug in the Tech2 ...
so saturday morning looks like its optispark time. i've had one or two people email me (forgot who, as i'm at work) offering their help with the install, i'll try to email you back tonight.
for as for tonight? got my new tensioner pully sitting in my hand right now, two bolts and my bad bearing noise will hopefully be solved
... of course it only SEEMS that easy...
called Mike, probably can't get over there till next wednesday ... so i'll go ahead and do the optispark this weekend, hopefully this will clear it up.
if not, i'll head over to Norris and plug in the Tech2 ...
so saturday morning looks like its optispark time. i've had one or two people email me (forgot who, as i'm at work) offering their help with the install, i'll try to email you back tonight.
for as for tonight? got my new tensioner pully sitting in my hand right now, two bolts and my bad bearing noise will hopefully be solved
... of course it only SEEMS that easy...
Originally posted by MustangEater82
15.3 mpg?
how are the o2s?
15.3 mpg?
how are the o2s?
i completly missed you saying this.
i think when we checked the o2's they were fine, jumping up and down at idle, both seemingly together.
would disconnecting the o2's and running around like that for a day or so rule out bad o2's? or would i just screw something up?


