i've got a very slight rough idle, that as of recently has become not so slight. if it gets any worse i think i'm going to have to take it somewhere and get it checked out...

anyone got a favorite (CHEAP) good mechanic? i think i'd ask him just to diagnose it at first because its still running, and i'd like to save money with labor if its something easy, like a sensor.

i've learned the ways of the dealer... never again

 

call me at (407)295-7073 robert. my shop is on john young pkwy

 

well, there is DEFINANTLY something wrong... i was going to go to OSW tonight but on my way whenever i stopped my car started idling really funny and was very very rough.

this sucks

no one recommends any mechanics around here? come on, someone's gotta hand their car over to a mechanic every once and awhile...

 

Check for intake leaks... especially undereath your elbow to throttle body... to bad u dont live in Tampa or i could have looked at if for yuh

 

i don't even think it sounds normal anymore.

i replaced the altinator because i thought the bearings were going bad because of some noise... well, it reduced the noise, but there is still a "bad bearings" type of noise. its still around even when i turn on and off the A/C.

and i think the noise under the valve covers is louder than normal. it seems as though i can hear it bouncing off of the other cars clearly, or sitting next to a building i can hear whats going on under the valve covers clearly.

the damn idle is still f'ed up, even after resetting the PCM (had to disconnect battery to install alt).

robert offered to plug in a scanner and see what the sensors are seeing, so we'll do that tomarrow morning. i hope this shows what is wrong, otherwise tomarrow afternoon i might be stopping off at a mechanic... but i have no clue which one to go to.

 

Avoid the firestone on colonial, they dicked me over on some minor stuff I don't trust them and I ahve heard soem stories about don olson on Univeristy.

I ahve a Multi meter, if you wanna go one by one checking sensors, and seeing if they are in specs, I have a chilt0ons manual that will give out the readdings.

thought about getting a long screw driver putting your ear to it and putting it on differnet parts of the valve cover, I was able to tell which vavles were ticking more then others on my car that way.


honestly in the last 3 years my car has gone to a mechanic 3 times, Ignition lock cylinder(dealer), had firestone guy check out mmy rear end swap to see if everything was right and quote me on a brake job, and got into an argument about whether he rotate d my tires or not, pretty simple to tell he didn't, had a donuth and 2 differnt tire brands on the car, and it was in the same spot I left it when I dropped it off, almost looks like he was charging me $75 for not even touching my car, lied to me some so I said **** it let him keep the money, and badmouthed customers that walked in the door for a little bit. And my transmission, clutch, to big a job for me to do in a parking lot, and i am not sure if I had the know how to do it, and I know I did not have the time.

I am nto an lt1 guru, but some day I can take a look at it, and like I said I have a chiltons, and iu think I have a haybes manual somewhere, we can look up the symptons and see what the book might say is causing it.

 

went to robert's shop and we diagnosed that my car is running rich.

also figured out why my car seems a little rough, i've got a polly trans mount ... doh!

and figured out my idler pully bearings are going bad.

and changed my burnt out foglight bulb

and fixed my heat shield rattling against my new exhaust

and discovered that i still have no oil leaks (YAY!)

and fixed (hopefully) a leaky valve stem

and polished up parts of my engine (fuel rails are SHINY!!!)

damn we did a lot. thanks for all your help robert, now time to figure out why its running rich. i'll be calling vinci soon.

 

anytime. blm's were 109-110 on both banks int's were 128 on both sides. the blm's went to 128 when the engine reached 4000. he also said he put injector cleaner in it earlier and it had cleared up some of the roughness. so i think the injectors are sticking open.

 

Why are you taking your car to Vinci's? Take it to Norris Motorsport and save yourself some $.

Jim

 

because i told him to. they have a system called motorvac. it is a top end cleaning system. also cleans the injectors along with removing carbon deposits in the upper end of the motor. does norris have a motorvac system? if he does, and it's cheaper, then take it there. if not, then to vinci's to have it done.

 

How does this system compare to the setup out by 3M (I think distributed by NAPA)? If you have never heard of it, you remove the fuel pump fuse, hook their system into the schrader valve in the fuel line under the hood, then start the motor. When it stops running (like 15 minutes), unhook it, and plug the fuse back in. Supposed to work real well, though I have never personnally tried it.....

 

i just got done pulling my drivers side plugs and my #3 plug had a black (burn?) mark on about 1/4 of the side of the white part. the rest of that particular plug all 3 of the other plugs looked good.

going to pull the other 4 plugs on the pass. side now.

whats a burn mark on the plug mean? the plugs are probably about 1k or 2k miles old, about a month.

 

hey bro,
go to napa or central auto parts..they both carry a product called "seafoam".it's a full top end cleaner similar to motorvac..but cheaper someone said it earlier..this is the product developed by 3m i beleive.....this should clear your problem up..after running seafoam though its good to change your plugs..go with NGK tr-55's part #3951.......good luck man.later,
carter

 

oh my bad,
this product is not the one mike mentioned..this hooks to your intake manifold where the brake booster vaccume line goes...its a very potent de-carboniser...very nice product though and should help your problem.after running this..try mike's suggestion also the 3m fuel system cleaner from napa..its not the kind you pour in your gas tank!!but if u run both of these your problem should vanish

 

well i just got done pulling all of the plugs and checking them out. 3 plugs (1, 5, 7) were perfect, almost looked like they were brand new. 4 plugs (3, 2, 6, 8) had a little burn mark on the white part, but otherwise looked fine. my #4 plug was pretty black, the whole white area was black. i took pictures but i won't have them online for a few hours till i get home again.

so would that indicate that cylender 4 could be the one running rich, leaving the excess carbon?