good local mechanics
10-26-2002, 06:23 PM
#62
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Milton, FL
Posts: 3,604
didn't check the fuel injectors, went right to work on the opti
so far, it doesn't seem to have made it better, but maybe a little worse
... i'll have to drive it around and let the computer re-learn for a few miles and see what happens after that.
but now i've noticed i have an OIL LEAK! ARGH!!! before this i had zero oil leaks, and now i've got one that is dripping onto the ground under the front part of the engine, possibly the opti or crankshaft.
argh omg right now i'm tired and i don't wanna deal with it anymore... stupid oil leaks, wtf. i dunno what i'm going to do about the oil leak... its something i definantly want to fix, but i don't wanna deal with it anymore.
as a side note, this was something that HAD to be done anyways, as my waterpump was weeping from the weep hole. it was only a matter of time.
and huge thanks to brian for comming by and helping me out. couldn't have done it without ya.
so far, it doesn't seem to have made it better, but maybe a little worse
... i'll have to drive it around and let the computer re-learn for a few miles and see what happens after that.but now i've noticed i have an OIL LEAK! ARGH!!! before this i had zero oil leaks, and now i've got one that is dripping onto the ground under the front part of the engine, possibly the opti or crankshaft.
argh omg right now i'm tired and i don't wanna deal with it anymore... stupid oil leaks, wtf. i dunno what i'm going to do about the oil leak... its something i definantly want to fix, but i don't wanna deal with it anymore.
as a side note, this was something that HAD to be done anyways, as my waterpump was weeping from the weep hole. it was only a matter of time.
and huge thanks to brian for comming by and helping me out. couldn't have done it without ya.
10-26-2002, 07:34 PM
#63
Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 311
hey, i had a feeling u would have posted already! It was no problem helping out, its always easier with more hands!! i just wish we fixed the problem. hopefully when u go on wed. u will be able to figure something out. keep me posted, if it works out for u i would like to bring my car up there sometime. talk to u later.
10-26-2002, 07:47 PM
#64
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Rockledge, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Unplug your MAF. Start the car. You'll get an SES light that'll stay on but just ignore it. The car will run rough for a minute or two but then......does it run better than when the MAF was connected?
10-26-2002, 09:06 PM
#65
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Milton, FL
Posts: 3,604
i've tried the disconnecting MAF test a few weeks ago and it acted the same
stupid oil leaks... bleh. i'm not sure what i'm going to do about it. at this time i don't wanna touch my car mechanically for a few weeks now, i'm exhausted.
tomarrow i've gotta drive up and give back that POS crank pulley puller from autozone... i'm not sure if i'll be returning the one from discount auto yet, it was only 20 bucks and i might use it in the future, dunno.
after driving it back to my apartment, i don't think its any worse than it used to be. its hard to tell because we reset the computer and it hasn't had a chance to re-learn everything. tomarrow i'll be doing a good amount of driving back to autozone so that'll give it time to learn.
but the damn oil leak is really on my nerves... i think tomarrow i'll go down there with a paper towel and clean it all up, then track if its comming from the opti seal or the crankshaft seal, but both of which i think you've gotta remove the timing chain cover anyways to get to
stupid oil leaks... bleh. i'm not sure what i'm going to do about it. at this time i don't wanna touch my car mechanically for a few weeks now, i'm exhausted.
tomarrow i've gotta drive up and give back that POS crank pulley puller from autozone... i'm not sure if i'll be returning the one from discount auto yet, it was only 20 bucks and i might use it in the future, dunno.
after driving it back to my apartment, i don't think its any worse than it used to be. its hard to tell because we reset the computer and it hasn't had a chance to re-learn everything. tomarrow i'll be doing a good amount of driving back to autozone so that'll give it time to learn.
but the damn oil leak is really on my nerves... i think tomarrow i'll go down there with a paper towel and clean it all up, then track if its comming from the opti seal or the crankshaft seal, but both of which i think you've gotta remove the timing chain cover anyways to get to
10-27-2002, 11:07 AM
#66
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Milton, FL
Posts: 3,604
ok here's an update
drove a good amount, both normal and very spirited driving to return the defunct pulley puller to autozone and it seems like *most* of the problem while accelerating is gone. you can still feel it, its definantly still there, but its decreased dramatically.
at idle, its like a 50/50 chance of being a rougher idle and being fairly smooth, compaired to last time. sometimes when i pull up to a stoplight it'll feel rough and you'll see the RPM's bounce a little bit, and sometimes it'll feel plenty of vibration but the RPM's don't move. this last case i'd attribute to the poly tranny mount, which will be replaced soon to figure out if thats the vibration.
oil is still leaking ... checked my oil level this morning and it was just above the "full" mark, so i'm not worried about running dry, but its still something i wanna fix.
the starting has improved. i'll go out in 4 hours and see if the somewhat warm start problem is still there. i noticed it started a lot easier last night the second time we started it.
in park sitting in the parking space the RPM's bounce just a bit, and you can feel the vibrations comming from that. when i pushed down on the throttle body to rev the car up, before last night you could feel and see the engine reving up and down, but just now after driving it, it didn't do that. i hope it stays that way
so, to sum it all up, its not fixed, but its improved. i think the opti had something to do with it after i found my waterpump leaking... but its aparently not the only culpret.
i still like the leaky fuel injector theory. i havn't taken the rail off to check yet though. i think i'm still going to head up to norris and see if we can spot anything on the tech2
what about EGR? how hard is it to block that off to take it out of the equation?
drove a good amount, both normal and very spirited driving to return the defunct pulley puller to autozone and it seems like *most* of the problem while accelerating is gone. you can still feel it, its definantly still there, but its decreased dramatically.
at idle, its like a 50/50 chance of being a rougher idle and being fairly smooth, compaired to last time. sometimes when i pull up to a stoplight it'll feel rough and you'll see the RPM's bounce a little bit, and sometimes it'll feel plenty of vibration but the RPM's don't move. this last case i'd attribute to the poly tranny mount, which will be replaced soon to figure out if thats the vibration.
oil is still leaking
... checked my oil level this morning and it was just above the "full" mark, so i'm not worried about running dry, but its still something i wanna fix.the starting has improved. i'll go out in 4 hours and see if the somewhat warm start problem is still there. i noticed it started a lot easier last night the second time we started it.
in park sitting in the parking space the RPM's bounce just a bit, and you can feel the vibrations comming from that. when i pushed down on the throttle body to rev the car up, before last night you could feel and see the engine reving up and down, but just now after driving it, it didn't do that. i hope it stays that way
so, to sum it all up, its not fixed, but its improved. i think the opti had something to do with it after i found my waterpump leaking... but its aparently not the only culpret.
i still like the leaky fuel injector theory. i havn't taken the rail off to check yet though. i think i'm still going to head up to norris and see if we can spot anything on the tech2
what about EGR? how hard is it to block that off to take it out of the equation?
10-28-2002, 08:09 AM
#68
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Milton, FL
Posts: 3,604
yea i think i might wanna switch out the coil again.
the 4 hour hard start thing is still there
the oil leak needs to be fixed, seems like its dripping a bit more than i thought. i'll try to figure out where its leaking later this week... hopefully not from the timing chain cover, cause we accidentally removed a timing cover bolt but then put it back in.
anyone got a seal installer or knows how to install new seals and can possibly stop by on saturday?
the 4 hour hard start thing is still there
the oil leak needs to be fixed, seems like its dripping a bit more than i thought. i'll try to figure out where its leaking later this week... hopefully not from the timing chain cover, cause we accidentally removed a timing cover bolt but then put it back in.
anyone got a seal installer or knows how to install new seals and can possibly stop by on saturday?
10-28-2002, 08:42 AM
#69
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Milton, FL
Posts: 3,604
also, anyone have a spare 1995 fuel rail w/injectors laying around that i can test with?
i did a search for what a stock fuel pressure should be and i found 43.5 +-2psi for WOT... well my WOT is about 48psi last i checked.
i'm still thinking its probably fuel related, like fuel leaking into the combustion chambers so that after 3 - 4 hours there is enough to cause the engine to bog on startup.
i did a search for what a stock fuel pressure should be and i found 43.5 +-2psi for WOT... well my WOT is about 48psi last i checked.
i'm still thinking its probably fuel related, like fuel leaking into the combustion chambers so that after 3 - 4 hours there is enough to cause the engine to bog on startup.
10-28-2002, 11:17 AM
#70
Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Altamonte Springs, FL
Posts: 330
At my shop on Carborated cars we get a lot of carbon build up in some race motors we have built. We would put MSD on them and it always clears up the problem. Just another thought it may not have anything to do with it but it does clear up build up. Also if you need that stock coil my number is 407-491-0881. I have one with 1000 miles on it before he converted to MSD.
Tyler
P.S. I am free SUN to help you fix up your sealing problem. Shouldn't be to hard.
Tyler
P.S. I am free SUN to help you fix up your sealing problem. Shouldn't be to hard.
10-30-2002, 03:35 PM
#73
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Milton, FL
Posts: 3,604
just got back from norris... HUGE thanks to Mike up there, you gave me a good direction on how to go next.
its got something to do with cylender 4 ... we figured this out using the tech2... this corresponds to my finding that plug 4 was dirty.
he suggested i get a compression test done...
i sure hope i don't have a compression problem with only 60k miles on the odo.
but what might affect a single cylender?
fuel injector
plug
plug wire
rings (oh god)
headgasket? (no oil in coolant, and no coolant in oil... and no smoke)
anything else?
and out of those, i've replaced the plug and plug wire, so that leaves it at fuel injector and rings (oh god)
i'm going to put my money on the fuel injector. anyone got a spare stock fuel injector laying around that i can test with? if it fixes my problem, i'd buy it from you if that was ok.
in the mean time i think i will do the compression test. this can be done at basically any mechanics shop, right? how much does it generally cost?
its got something to do with cylender 4 ... we figured this out using the tech2... this corresponds to my finding that plug 4 was dirty.
he suggested i get a compression test done...
i sure hope i don't have a compression problem with only 60k miles on the odo.
but what might affect a single cylender?
fuel injector
plug
plug wire
rings (oh god)
headgasket? (no oil in coolant, and no coolant in oil... and no smoke)
anything else?
and out of those, i've replaced the plug and plug wire, so that leaves it at fuel injector and rings (oh god)
i'm going to put my money on the fuel injector. anyone got a spare stock fuel injector laying around that i can test with? if it fixes my problem, i'd buy it from you if that was ok.
in the mean time i think i will do the compression test. this can be done at basically any mechanics shop, right? how much does it generally cost?
Last edited by anasazi; 10-30-2002 at 04:29 PM.
10-30-2002, 09:10 PM
#75
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Orlando, Florida, USA
Posts: 1,713
Originally posted by anasazi
... in the mean time i think i will do the compression test. this can be done at basically any mechanics shop, right? how much does it generally cost?
... in the mean time i think i will do the compression test. this can be done at basically any mechanics shop, right? how much does it generally cost?
Why take it somewhere and risk them screwing something up when you can do it yourself? That's why I starting buying tools whenever I needed one. I know more about my cars now and I pay a lot less $$$
.