Hi there,
I think AC compressor on my 96TA has gone bad.
For the last 3 years, it was making a bad bearing noise.
Now AC system is not holding the ferion.
I am 98% sure, bearing has gone bad on the compressor, thus it got all ferion got lost, leak.
I am planning to change the AC Compressor. I was thinking that I should change the idle pulley, the belt tensioner, the tensioner pulley, and the serpentine belt.
The serpentine belt. is 7 years old, and all other components are original.
Please let me know, should I change all that, while I am doing this work ?
------I think the A/C compressor on my 96TA has gone bad. For the past three years, it has been making a bad bearing noise. Now the A/C system is no longer holding refrigerant.

I am about 98% sure the compressor bearing has failed, which likely led to the refrigerant leak and loss of system pressure.

I am planning to replace the A/C compressor. While doing that, I am also considering replacing the idler pulley, belt tensioner, tensioner pulley, and the serpentine belt.

The serpentine belt is about seven years old, and all the other components are still original.
Plus, where I can see the location of these components in the engine bay?
Compressor is easy to locate
is there do and dont, I should be aware of it ?
Is there a video by shoebox
Thanks in advance
I

 

There is a belt tensioner, which is also the idler pulley. All one piece. Replace if any indication of wear - pulley wobble, not holding tension, etc.

Belt routing from Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/tensioner.jpg

You should follow the procedures in the factory service manual. Free download, courtesy of member GaryDoug:

https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

 

So basically, there is only one pulley to deal with, the idler pulley. Since the car is a 1996 model, I’ll replace it due to age.

Thanks to Fred for the service manual, and GaryDoug for the service manual link.

• First, make sure the A/C system is empty (refrigerant removed). <-- It is from Last 3 years
• Disconnect the hoses from the back of the compressor.
• Remove the idler pulley.
• Remove the serpentine (S) belt.
• Loosen all the compressor bolts (top and bottom).
• Remove the top bolts.
• Then remove the bottom bolts while supporting the compressor.
• Take the compressor out and disconnect the wire.
• Attach the hoses to the new compressor using new washers or gaskets.
• Put the new compressor back into place.
• Install the bottom bolts first, then the top bolts.
• Tighten all bolts securely.
• Reinstall the idler pulley.
• Install the newer S belt.
• Vacuum the A/C system.
• Refill with the correct refrigerant.
• Start the car and test the A/C.

***** What you all think *****
Mir

 

I’ve never serviced an automotive A/C system, beyond adding refrigerant. But I’ve seen directions that indicate the drier needs to be replaced if the system is fully opened.

Unfortunately, there are seldom any active members on this site. I thought the Service Manual would address the drier (accumulator) replacement, but didn’t see it in a quick run through.

http://shbox.com/1/ac_system.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/ac_compressor_mounting.jpg

 

The compressor may look like there is not enough room to remove it. After all fasteners are removed, move the compressor forward and then nose down. There should be just enough room. Install in reverse. I would also recommend replacing the receiver/dryer.

 

Hey look at this Rob shined in, so thank you
So Robm, why is there a recommendation to replace the accumulator or receiver/dryer?
I am only asking, cause I do not know
Mir

 

Metal shavings from that failing compressor and other contaminants may be trapped in there. Cheap insurance.

 

understood.
Thanks

 

agreee on new dryer. most shops won't guarantee a new compressor without putting in new dryer due to possible contamination (read there is)

 

Cheap insurance for all the reasons noted above.

 

I was going to pitch in, but got lazy and decided it was easier to try Google AI:

Yes, the air conditioning drier/accumulator absorbs moisture that enters the refrigerant system using an internal drying agent called desiccant. This process prevents moisture from combining with refrigerant and oil, which can create acids that cause severe corrosion, icing, and damage to A/C components.

Key Points on Moisture Absorption:

• Desiccant Agent: The drier/accumulator houses a desiccant, often silica gel or activated alumina, specifically designed to trap moisture.
• Preventing Damage: Moisture inside the system can lead to corrosion and, if it freezes in the expansion valve/orifice tube, can block refrigerant flow.

• Preventive Action: It is crucial to replace the drier or accumulator whenever the system is opened for service (such as replacing the compressor), as the desiccant can become saturated and lose its ability to remove moisture.

Difference in Function:

• Receiver-Drier: Typically used in systems with a thermal expansion valve, located on the high-pressure side.
• Accumulator: Used in systems with a fixed orifice tube, located on the low-pressure side, and also protects the compressor from liquid refrigerant.