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EDIT: I took it to eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=230097836328
Special Camaroz28.com discount: $3,000 will take everything
I have all of this stuff boxed up, and it needs to get out of my **** as I am consolidating space.

I will take trades for a large, 80-100mm single turbo (perferably something rated for 1200-1500 hp), rear-ends, a rolling chassis, or a low compression shortblock.
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Well, I want to put together a dedicated track car - enough fooling around! I am selling everything off the car that wont be needed as such. I will be selling the rear-end and drive train parts last, once I have the big block, err engine, mounted and ready for the new drivetrain. Considering this setup is for the most part new, I think the price is dirt cheap considering the cost of a PTK kit! Here goes:

Fabricated twin turbo kit:
Turbonetics 60-1 .69 A/R
GTAW, 16 gauge mild steel headers, 1-5/8' primaries, 7/16" flanges (were 1/2 but I fly-cut them after fabrication. They were slighty warped and I don't depend on bolts to do the job of a mill, but I mainly took so much off to get a few more threads in the heads)
GTAW, 16 gauge, 3" mandrel bent downpipes with stainless V-band clamps, flanges turned from billet (not those cheap, formed-tube flanges)
40mm JGS Precision wastegates
Griffin 3" dual-core aluminum radiator with custom inlets, outlets, and mounts
Spal 16" high performance fan
All cold-side tubing is 16 gauge mandrel tubing, GMAW, K&N air filters included!
31"x12"x4" bar and plate intercooler, GTAW 3/8 plate mounts
Madman fabrication alternator relocation bracket
Taylor Spiro-Pro wires and new TR6 plugs
High Temp Silicone 3 and 4 ply couplers, HTS vacuum line
Stainless band clamps all around
-12 AN Stainless braided hose and all fittings, welded oil pan included, -3 AN steel line, all fittings, and filters
Dakota Digital: Chrome bezel, blue/teal VFD (not the weak and dim LCD gauges) vacuum/boost and high resolution fuel pressure gauges with sending units, all wiring, and all tubing/lines

This kit eliminates all O.E. engine accessory brackets, as well as the O.E. power steering pump, A.C. compressor, and Smog/A.I.R. pump should you still use it. I intended on using a 3-phase, high voltage A.C. compressor as well as a 12 V power steering pump from a Toyota MR2. Obviously, the Madman alternator relocation bracket uses the OE alternator. Since I do not like to find surprises when I buy used or custom parts, I will outline what I believe might not catch every eye looking at the photos:

The turbochargers are not perfectly symmetrical with respect to the engine and chassis center-line. Although it is not a gross detail, and no one has mentioned it when looking at the setup, it is something less than perfect and I am ultimately unsatisfied with it.

With my engine mounts (not very sagging or malfunctional), body panel, and hood and latch alignment, the compressor covers would not touch the hood. As a matter of fact, there was clearance such that I could easily move my fingers between them while I had the car on the lift. However, after running it, I did notice two indentations in both the heat shield and the support structure of the hood. There was absolutely no bubbling of the hood skin or, even minute, surface irregularities. My guess is that this would only occur during significant loading of the power-train, loading such as a launch. This also goes for the tops of the wastegates. On these, I actually made minor clearances in anticipation of this.

Moving on, I also made clearances in a few portions of the sheet metal structure in the engine bay. First, the passenger-side hood bumper had a small, 1" long crescent ground into the under side to accommodate the charge-tube. I could have made what many call a "cheater cut" to simulate a bend in tubing, but I try to be simple and efficient by making square cuts. In this case, the sheet metal had to go.

On both sides of the engine compartment are sheet metal skeletons that brace the front structure and frame rails of the car to the fenders and wheel well structure; I made minor clearances in these to accommodate the compressor filter-intake tubes. Moving back to the passenger-side charge-tube, I chose to section a small rectangle out of the composite wheel well splash guard, or liner, and create a coupling; this was done to make working on the system much easier, which it does. Rather than have a four-foot-long, snaking hook of tubing permanently installed on the car, all one has to do is remove a simple band clamp. Some people, especially with exhaust systems, love the idea of having to cut and re-weld tubing every time work is done; I don't. One should also take note that I removed the upper radiator support and frame structure. Although I did not notice any looseness from removing this, I would advise the use of a strut tower brace. I have seen some people make braces out of small diameter D.O.M. tubing and plate, but I do not think they recreate the rigidity of the structure before being cut. Honestly, the strut tower brace seems as a step in the right direction without the structure removed.

I believe the above to be all of the quarks about the system, but there may be more. I certainly am not shy about removing factory components, so this system might be tailored to modifications I had done previous to this installation. The likelihood of this is small, and I would think any interference would be very minute. The kit has very little run time and never made it to the track for a run.

I will post pictures of everything tomorrow. I will also make a list of everything else I will be removing. I am not sure whether or not I am going to gut the interior or not, or use an auto. I hate to drop an auto in a manual car when so many people are hanging clutch pedals in A4 cars. lol

Alan

EDIT- I should also mention that while I am new here, I do have a 250+ rating on eBay and have an established PayPal account. I will provide this information to anyone via my email address or private message.

 

Here are a few pictures for the moment:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/turbo5.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/turbo4.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/turbo3.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/turbo2.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/turbo1.jpg

I will get some more up tomorrow. I am working on getting these ceramic coated. You will notice a dark area around many of the welds where I removed the aluminum coating from the pipe before welding. Although this is good for the weld, the underlying steel exposed during this rusts. You will also notice a few spots where I have run the MIG welder on the headers. I spent about ten minutes one day doing a little touch up work after I initially made the headers. There are certain parts of the collector which had to be MIG welded and you can identify these by the spatter. Someplaces I couldn't get to with my torch but the MIG lets me run out what is effectively the electrode and easily deposit the filler; I tried with the tungsten extended but just couldn't make it happen. The places I welded with the MIG welder are purely failsafes for any leaks in the collector and not structural or primary sealing welds; the collector is welded to each primary.

 

A few more:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w.../radiator1.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/lines1.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/turbo8.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/turbo7.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...a36/turbo6.jpg

Nevermind the mess in the background, I had to move everything over into the dungeon-end of the shop, out of the way of work.

 

New price!

 

to the top

 

New price, guys!

 

damn... thats sooo cheap....

 

You state that this set up eliminates all O.E. assories and had made mention of the alternatives you were planning on using (madman alt. braket with O.E. alt, and MR2 power stearing pump) were these to be included as well?

And just so I'm clear, the AIR pump and cats would be tossed compleatly with this set up?

Give me an idea, how hard would all this be to install on one's own. I'm quite interested and will be watching the auction but would like to know what I'm getting myself into if i take it off your hands.

 

The MR2 pump and alternator are not included, nor is the equipment to run the MR2 pump. However, the alternator relocation equipment is included. I will think about a price for the PS brackets and lines since I will have to re-fab everything; I sold it all to someone else before I decided to sell this system.

There are no provisions for attaching A.I.R. fittings, but I could probably create something to suite your needs. The driver-side downpipe would probably be in the way of the OE A.I.R. pump and bracket. You would be responsible for recreating the rest of the A.I.R. system if I were to add fittings to the headers. With regard to converters, you could very easily and simply remove the necessary section of straight pipe from the Y-pipe and add two converters.

Installation is very simple; I designed this to be easy to work on. The hardest part is going to be relocating your battery, cutting the front core support crossmember with a reciprocating saw, and turning the steering wheel in a parking lot if you don't have power steering. I drove around for a while with no power steering on full size tires. If you put a small 6 or 4 inch skinny on, you will not feel like worrying with power steering.

 

bumpedy