Pacific Alaska, California, Hawaii, Oregon and Washington

K-member and control arms

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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 12:24 PM
  #31  
Highlander's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,082
From: San Juan PR
It looks a lot more sturdy, but the difference to the stocker is not much... it looks like Im going to keep the stocker for now... I do race HARD on the street and I do go HARD on the brakes when the time is needed.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 12:43 PM
  #32  
LT1Z28's Avatar
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From: Vancouver, B.C
i am sorry but i dont entirely see the physics of how a stamped steel anything be it contol arm panhard whatever is stronger but to each there own. Everything will break in time with high stress it is the way **** happens nothing is buillit proof. Also for the k member being a oil pan saviour common guys what the hell are you jumping your cars off of your not driving old general lee. i have never once came close to scraping a kmember. If you guys are so worried about that then maybe slow down a touch on the street on roads you dont know.

Just my .02 just like Ellis .02 do what you will and keep reading
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 02:16 PM
  #33  
93formula's Avatar
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From: vancouver, BC, Canada
well yeah just like **** happens and stuff breaks well you never know road conditions, dark parking lots.

punk kids who leave huge rocks on the road(happened to me) i saw it at the last moment and ran over this huge rock that bent my tie rod, had i not seen it and was using a tubular k member then i would have surely damaged my oil pan.

like i said if you barley drive your car then thats fine but if you daily drive it and drive hard, then IMO its not worth it.

ellis ill take the advice from serious AXers and road racers then a drag racer. the BMR piece is not worth the dollars for what it provides to a daily driver. ive seen the proof from many well respected guys on the frrax board.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 02:47 PM
  #34  
Tw!tchb!tch's Avatar
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From: British Columbia, Canada
Also for the k member being a oil pan saviour common guys what the hell are you jumping your cars off of your not driving old general lee. i have never once came close to scraping a kmember.
lol , what are you trying to imply

My k member is scraped to **** Ill take some pics .
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 12:07 AM
  #35  
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From: Vancouver, B.C
I guess i am implying maybe you guys should slow down lol. It is beyond me how you damage that stuff but to each their own.
Later
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 03:15 AM
  #36  
Jon A's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 482
From: Mukilteo, WA
Originally posted by OneFlyn95z28
And as I have said I totaly disagree with you about it and would like you to show some kind of proff
Ask, and ye shall recieve:

http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=1699&

YOu may recall from a previous thread my mentioning that my BMR k-member broke at TWS in June. Work and other obligations have kept me from doing a thorough inspection of the entire front enduntil today, when I have the passenger front wheel off to replace a bad hub. I was shocked to discover that besides the k-member damage repaired mid-journey from College Station to Beaumont, the pickup point for the caster bushing was bent as well! The stamped 'box' that the caster bushing bolts through was pushed up and back, both sides wrinkled into an s shape about a half inch deep. Further inspection found the BMR upper was bent across the fllat section onto which the ball joint bolts about 3*. Apparantly the front toook quite a hard jolt at some point that weekend, though I don't recollect anything out of the ordinary. We had the car on a lift the previous night doing a pre-trip bleeding, oil change, etc., and the suspension was not damaged visably then.

Sorry I can't post pics. I have a couple of OK shots of the broken K-member that were taken (with my phone!) when we lifted the car at Prewitt Racing in Austin for the repair, if someone can spare a few K to host them. I will take photos of the rest of the K-mamber damage and upper arm later, as I plan to have a few words with BMR about all this.

BTW, Prewitt racing, primarily a mustang shop, in North Austin, really helped me out of a bind! I was stranded with a seriously broken front end 250 miles from home, needed to be back the following morning, and knew almost no one in the area. The alignment shop couldn't repair the car, but sent me to a shop they thought might. They were stacked up with work and didn't want to deal with my emergency. A few doors down, Jason Prewitt's establishment was thriving as well, but the man listened to my problem, looked at the car, and asked if seven PM would be too late for the completed job! His fab man was pulled off a roll cage job, and eagerly and proficiently repaired the damage, strengthened the crappy design, and gusseted the other side to match! I hightly reccommend them on spirit as well as skill!
The stock stamped steel stuff has been roadracing on these cars for over a decade...this stuff has been on the market, what, a year and a half?

BMR should spend less on powdercoating options and more on Engineering expertise or roadracing car building experience unless the parts are labeled as "drag only". IMHO only, of course.
Old Jul 9, 2004 | 08:22 PM
  #37  
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Posts: 2,929
From: vancouver, BC, Canada
theres another post on ls1 tech of one breaking. for drag its fine i guess but i would not use any of there products on my car other then the STB, im sure they cant mess up a piece of pipe.
Old Jul 10, 2004 | 08:56 AM
  #38  
KA0S's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 439
From: West Kootenays
With all that Ive read on BMR suspension , there are some parts to stay away from. The Kmember is not something I would buy and I think the adjustable LCAs are very poorly designed.
Old Aug 16, 2004 | 10:16 AM
  #39  
SILVERZZ28's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 448
From: DAPHNE,AL USA
Re: K-member and control arms

interesting
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