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Fuel Pressure Guage - HELP!

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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 01:53 PM
  #16  
CoryM's Avatar
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From: White Rock,BC,Canada
The electric senders are definatly safer and more accurate. They do not require any hoses or rubber diaphragm that can fail. They use a metal diaphragm (the end of the sensor) that either threads onto your test port, or you may need a brass/aluminum adapter fitting. With mechanical gauges you can get false readings over 5psi from the heat. When I buy electric senders (and I need them to be accurate) I will test them. Hook them up, and also have a GOOD mechanical gauge hooked up. They should read the same. If not you either buy another sender or add/remove a resistor. Most pressure senders will be very accurate but sometimes you have to compensate for the resistance of the wiring etc. If you have 100ft or wire the gauge will read different than 4ft of wire. Anyhow, for most applications thats going overboard. Buy sender, thread it on, wire to the gauge .
Old Jun 10, 2004 | 03:56 PM
  #17  
sideways_Into_3rd's Avatar
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From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by Draco
(I believe Payam ran a dual 2 5/8" pod).

incorrect. AFAIK, autometer never made a dual 2 5/8" pod .. i ran 2 single 2 5/8" pods
Old Jun 11, 2004 | 11:00 AM
  #18  
JeffK95Z's Avatar
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From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Craig, i'm assuming everything comes with this guage in order to hook it up?

All wiring/sender/etc...

?
Old Jun 11, 2004 | 12:58 PM
  #19  
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yes, I will also throw in the swivel fitting to connect the sender's stainless steel line to the fuel rail schraeder valve if I can find it. You can borrow my valve core removal tool also. Everything is over at my parent's house so I need to go dig it all out hehe.
Old Jun 11, 2004 | 04:02 PM
  #20  
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Removal tool? I'm confused
I thought you just attach the sensor part to the schrader valve and the rest is wires?
Old Jun 11, 2004 | 04:30 PM
  #21  
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nope, you need to remove the valve core from the valve in order for the fuel to enter the line which goes to the sender unit.
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