What's up everybody.

I've been running a supercharger setup on my LT1 for a while now, Vortech S-Trim 9PSI, with fully forged internals- 9.5:1 pistons, crank, c-rods, clevite bearings, etc... fuel pump and injectors are upgraded. i'm running a 214/222 .488/.509 112LSA crane cam, HI-6S ignition, full exhaust, etc

I was wondering, if I were to take the blower off and sell that and the tubing, buy a CAI (and change belts, etc), what else would I need to change to run N2O? How high of a shot would my blower-built internals be able to handle? I don't know much about nitrous, but I'm pretty sure that a higher compression ratio would be better... correct?

If I can get enough money out of that, I'd like to swap my edelbroch midlengths for some hooker LTs, a higher stall TC, heads, and an N2O system.

Help me out a lil, add some thoughts on what else I'd wanna change. Thanks for the feedback.

 

well your lower compression ratio is going to hurt you when your not spraying to start. so changing head gaskets to try to bump the CR up a little would be a good idea.

im sure you are running a colder plug due the the SC, but if for any reason you arent, look into the NGK plugs.

if you car is a full forged bottom, i see no reason you couldnt run as high a shot as 300. with a shot that big though you might have to add components to the fuel system.

i think the LTs are a good idea, and also like the new stall idea. I would stick with the heads you have if there is any work done to them. for the nitrous kit, i would go TNT or NX; I like TNT personally. Also if you go with NX, stay with a wet kit. if you have the money, a direct port system is a better way to go.

 

Heads are totally LT1 stock, as for the fuel system I'm running the Vortech T-Rex pump (50gph), 30 lb/hr injectors. I'm also using the Vortech FMU...

I'm almost positive I'm going to take off the blower, one way or another. I'm not skilled enough to tune F/I. In spring I'm swapping the blower off for stage 2 ported heads and a CC306, and eventually my 2400 stall TC will go in favor of a 3200-3600 stall, then followed by some hooker ceramic coated LTs.

I don't plan on getting into N2O until late in summer, I'll most likely be doing a wet kit with a small shot first, probably 150, and start building it up from there.

Right now, the car has Edelbrock midlengths, a B&M 2400 Stall Torque Converter, stock LT1 heads, and a Crane cam (214/222 .488/.509 112LSA) . I'd like to swap all 4 of them out and sell each one if I can get rid of the blower on Ebay or something.

 

i would personally go with jet-hot lts. if the heads are stock, that is a pretty good deal. then try to sell your stock heads on here. ive seen lt1 heads selling as low as 175, but as high as 250 on here.

the fmu should be taken off with the blower. they are junk IMO. You should also look into getting an ignition system that will allow electronic retard. that way when you start jucing you will be set in that area. general rule of thumb is 2º retard per 50 N2O shot, but if you get someone to tune it, you can go less.

 

Add a small nitrous shot to your blower combo. It's a "marriage made in heaven". The N2O adds low speed torque, and then the blower takes over!. The cooling effect of the N2O on the intake charge is a big plus. You should gain more than the rated nitrous hp due to this effect.

Rich Krause

 

I'm in the process of switching over from blower to nitrous after busting a ringland. I sold the blower...bought a 383, ported Musser heads, cc306 etc. I just hated having all that **** in the way of the plug wires and I also got stranded near some street racing.....just driving by and accidentally wandered upon it of course....when I blew off an intake pipe (hadn't moved the MAF yet). Atleast our law enf. officers don't care hehe. The nitrous will make better e/t's anyway...because of it picking you up full blast in the lower rpm range.

Joe

 

the lower compression will hurt slightly,but less chance of huffing head gaskets when running a bigger shot due to lower cylinder pressure.NGK or Autolite racing plugs would be the plugs of choice,but niether are "mandatory".

As far as nitrous kits go,i have had GREAT success with NX,and they only sell wet kits. I will be swapping over to a TNT Direct port DRY kit with my new setup,should be interesting.
NX setup is for sale.

As far as LT's go,they all have quirks,but i have been very happy with the Hookers,heard of some issues with jethot's,so read up.

the 2degree's of timingis a VERY old rule of thumb. It's a good way to start,but 8 degree's on a 150 shot is excessive IMO especially with alum heads/reverse flow cooling. Timing retard is definately a mandatory item.

 

What exactly will I need after the Vortech is off?

I know intake (probably K&N FIPK with a 1LE elbow), belt, will I have to change the crank pulley back to stock as well?

 

what pulley do you have now? pulley really has no effect on the nitrous.

 

To tell you the truth, I don't even know. It could be stock. There's so much damn crap from the Vortech in front of the motor that I'd have to take out the radiator just to see.

I've currently got the LT1 up for sale, if she doesn't sell by April, I'm gonna take out the blower and sell it (hopefully) and order the AFR 195 heads. After that, longtubes and X-Pipe. Then comes the comp 306.

 

change back to the stock dampener. you might just have the vortec pully mounted on top of the dampener, but remove all the stuff you added for the SC.

also about retard, better safe than sorry. and a 150 shot would be 6º not 8º. i also stated that that would be a *safe* approach, and with proper tuning would be less.