who has experience w/ this kit?

seems to look pretty good, espescially because I'm only looking for a 100 shot.


would I have to upgrade my injectors w/ this kit?

would the pusher pump that comes with be good enough with the stock pump as long as it meets "new" specs?

AND:

I know all about Window and wide-open and fuel pressure switches and what not, but I do have a question.

Is there some kind of switch that can allow only for the gas to flow once you are in second gear (for an M6)?

I'm worried that if it's armed, and I'm revving the car ( I know I wont be at WOT, but it could be possible...) before I launch, I'm gonna spray the car while its sitting. Also, It seems kind of pointless to spray while in first gear, but maybe not. Some input please.....

 

i puit it on my 94 z28 years ago when it had 86k on the clock. bought it used. still had original pump and injectors in the car. worked great. went from 13.60 to 12.24 @ 113.90.

you can rig a WOT switch to the shifter. that way, when you shift out of 1st, it will then arm the system.

 

I personally think that the NOS kit is the best DRY LT1 kit on the market.
You can use our digital window switch with the any gear lock out feature to help with the first gear problem.
Dave

 

I agree. I use the NOS #5176 with a progressive controller.

 

I can tell you from experience that It's a real good idea to (at least) add a set of SVO type injectors when installing both the 5176 and 5174 NOS dry kits......some people get away with their stock injectors for these kits , and "many" others (Including myself) have had "immediate" problems with their stock injectors locking up under the 80plus pound spike that's nesessary for your fuel enrichment with the dry NOS kits....the stock injectors were never designed for this ..and trust me, it's the type of thing where if even one of your 8 injectors lock up for a split second, it can trash the entire motor in a flash before the kit ever even gets working for ya......the SVO injectors are of a different design and can handle the increased pressure much, much better.......On a stock Lt-1, I ran the same NOS Dry kit for over 5 years without any problems, with 24lb SVO injectors.... if you think that in the future you might go with heads, cam, PCM re-programing, or really anything else that will possibly alter the fuel requirements of the engine, just go ahead and go with a wet kit to start ,for it's far more precise tuning capabilities on a NON-stock engine set-up......or if you end up with the dry kit, you can always get the recently released NOS existing dry kit ,to wet conversion for for a little over 100 bucks.......good luck with it....... Oh yea, I saw you have hyper tuning, you might seriously want to return the spark curve to stock while on the spray.....unless you have a MSD or similar device to pull some timing out, to ofset your increased timing hyper tune......Joe

 

Ok, that's what I am wondering.....

I can definately notice a difference between stock and "hyper"tuned..., clearly there is a difference. See now the thing is, is that I want to be able to drive with the car "tuned" AND be able to spray. Is this possible? Would an msd compensate? If so, which one would work?

Also, the injectors to me seems like a no brainer. I was planning on upgrading. The SVO's seem to be the most popular, but are there other alternatives?

I really like the dry systems right now over the wet ones, especially for my car and the fair "stockness" of it

I figure it's better to get these questions out of the way here....getting flamed costs a hell of a lot less than having to build a 383 if my stocker goes KABOOM!

 

Yes it's possible, you could run an MSD digital 6 with the adjustable single stage retard, iv'e run these with great results since they came out.....you would hook the designated wire right to your NOS arming switch, so you'd always have the desired amount of retard while spraying.......obviously the best way would be to datalog your car to find out exactly where your timing is at,with the hypertune, I wouldn't trust where hyper says it should be....Ive seen several vary quite a bit........this is one of the disadvantages of the NOS dry kits, they were tuned for a totaly stock factory timing curve.......without knowing exactly where,and how much the hypertune is advancing the timing, you'll have to trial and error it,starting out with a fairly large amount of retard from the MSD box, say 10 degrees or more and then read the plugs as you fine tune and lessen the amount of retard.......You will notice that most manufactures of DRY kits will say to discontinue the use of any power programers......but like I said Itcan be done .......As far as injectors, yea , there are others, but the SVO for the money are about your best choice, becides , people are running them with success with dry kits and the dreaded pressure spike, so why risk something else?.........and it's good you thought swaping your stock ones out was a no brainer, MANY people don't have any idea since NOS (now holly) dosn't say it's absolutely nesessary........good luck..........Joe

 

I'm surprised you can feel any difference with the HHP "power tune".... most people find (dyno documented) that is can reduce power output, unless you're running the 160degF 'stat as well. To me, its not worth running it. Get a mail order "tune" from one of the guys that get good reviews on these forums - MadZ28, pcmforless. They can pick up way more HP than the HPP, and by telling them that you will be running nitrous, they can optimize the timing and A/F ratio for performance off the bottle. Then they can tell you what kind of timing retard you want when you spray.

On the injectors, you can use different brands.... the key point is to make sure it is a "pintle" style injector, and not a "ball and seat" (stock type) or disc type injector.

You also want to swap out the plugs if you are still running the stock AC/Delco platinums. They are probably the worst possible choice with nitrous. Consider a set of NGK TR6's or Autolite 104's. Non-platinum.

I ran the 5176 kit from 1995 to 2000 with no problems. Many of the parts, including the fuel pump are still being used in my current 300-shot dry system.

 

INJ:

well I do have a scanmaster now, so I can see EXACTLY what the programmer is doing, if anything. It came with the car when I got it, so I'm using it. It seems to keep the temerature at a solid 180, and the motor seems more eager to rev w/ it programmed.

See the thing is, is that I want the car to be optimally tuned for regular street driving, and then not have to screw with anything if I decide to spray. I don't want to have to go out thinking "Am i gonna spray tonight?", and then set everything in the tune back to stock, only to have to drive around with the car not at optimal performance. I don't know if that makes sense or not, but hopefully. I mean I plan on using the juice every now and then, but not everyday, you know? It would basically be for hahas or if some *** monkey in a stang decides to get funny.

also when you say pump, do you mean STOCK camaro pump, or the pusher pump that comes w/ the NOS kit?

And what do you think is a better plug? I've heard the tr6's have to be changed very often (like every 10k). Are all colder plugs like this?

thanks in advance

 

No point in arguing about the HPP.... if you're happy with it, keep it. I tried it, didn't find any performance improvment at all, and simply used it for things like gears, fan temps and rev limiter, until I got LT1_Edit.

And that's exaclty what I recommended. Get a "real" tune that is optimized for running without the bottle. Once its set, leave it alone. The only thing you may have to do is pull timing. That's very easy to do externally with an MSD box something similar. Run the max HP NA tune, then flip the arming switch, put the pedal to floor and spray away' knowing you're protected from too much advance by your external retard box.
The NOS 5176 kit comes with an inline booster pump. When I bought my 5176 kit in 1995, that pump was a 205LPH Bosch pump. I think they changed to a different model over the years. I still use that pump, but now there's a matching 205LPH pump in the tank for NA, and the old NOS 205LPH pump running outboard, in parallel off a sump on the stock tank, that only runs when the nitrous system is armed.
It isn't the brand of plug that requires frequent replacement. Its the fact that they are "conventional" plugs and not platinum. Its the platinum tips that resist wear and allow the plugs to last 100K miles ( or so they say). When you run a non-platinum plug, the electrodes wear faster, so the plugs need to be replaced more often. And its not because they are a '"colder" plug - the purpose of running a colder plug is both to keep them from becoming a "glow plug" ignition source when you're running nitrous, and to keep them from wearing rapidly in the intense heat of the nitrous enriched combustion. I have had good luck with both the NGK TR6's, and with the Autolite 104 and 103's.

 

so inj:

you recommend

max n/a hp mail order tune, then an msd box to pulltiming only when the car is sprayed correct?

what i want to know is, how will the box know its being sprayed and not pull timing when it's not? sorry if thats a really dumb question

 

With something like the MSD Digital-6, you connect a +12V wire from the same circuit as the +12V supply to your solenoids. When the solenoids are powered, the retard circuit in the "box" is powered. That tells the "box" that your nitrous system is spraying, so it can retard the timing ONLY when you spray.

 

One more thing, Does anybody know what the difference between the 50 state legal kits and the non-50 state legal kits is?

 

Is there such a thing as a 50 state legal N2O kit? I thought any installation of N2O in a vehicle in Virginia was illegal.

 

The 5176-EO was the CARB-certified emissions legal kit. I bought mine in late 94 or early 95. I was living in CA when I bought the car new. In essence, it was legal to install that kit on a car in CA, and many states use the CARB list as the basis for what it legal in the way of aftermarket installs. NOS eventually removed the "EO" certification from the kit, and no longer sell the "EO" version of the 5176. Individual states may have other laws regarding the installation of nitrous oxide kits, but in many states if it has the CARB sticker, its legal.